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Attachment 30312Attachment 30313Attachment 30314Attachment 30315pictures are a little crappy, hard to take pictures and hold parts at the same time.
to remove the bolt assembly...pull the bolt back, left the bolt latch on the left side out, then pull the bolt clear of the action.
to remove the cocking assembly, catch the sear engagement on a sharp edge, table, ect, then pull down on the bolt sleeve, instert a penny, nickle or washer in the gap, then rotate out as shown.
Attachment 30316Attachment 30317Attachment 30318Attachment 30319
push down on the sleeve, and remove the penny, then rotate the sear engagement to the side as shown and work it up, remove it, then you can remove the sleeve and spring, reverse the steps for assembly.
Or close the bolt with the saftey on (opens the gap), insert the penny, open the bolt and remove from rifle.Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckindenver
Don't know if this method does any harm to the rifle, but this was what I larned when I bougth my M1917 many years ago.
why would you put wear and tear on a hard to find part???doesnt make any since at all...
the OP tried that, and it wouldnt work for him..
this is one of the reasons i stopped doing the how to tips...seems no matter what, someone has a better way...have fun
Chuck, I don't think anyone means any disrespect.
Using either method, I can't break my bolt down. Even pushing the sear engagement as hard as I can on a table, I cannot get it down far enough to slip a coin in. It won't extend far enough. I'm putting some serious force into it too.
then likely you have a non standard spring. time for a soft jawed vise...if it were in my hands, id have apart in 15 seconds...
as for the other post..had he read the whole posting, he would see that you tried that, and it didnt work... took a bit of time and effort to take pics, and walk you through this..
i used to post a weekly hot tip, and for this same reason...i stopped...everyones an expert so i let em fix it till its broke for a while..
anyway..
grab the sear engagement with the vice, with a plastic or rubber dead blow mallet, drive the bolt foward at the same time as you push the bolt with gloved hands...then have your helper put a penny in the gap..then remove the cocking assembly..
could just be crusty, maybe let soak in oil for a while first.
I wish you would continue with the hot tips chuck.
I for one understand your frustration at persons who think they know better. I have come across like minded lee enfield owners.
Anyway many thanks for helping me out with these rifles. I wish there where more people like you willing to help, i appreciate it!!
Just wish i lived in the states!!
Cheers
Ned
:clap::clap::clap:
If you can close the bolt normally and the cocking piece/firing pin assembly snaps forward when the trigger is pulled (which you said happens, in your original post) then the cocking piece/firing pin assembly is probably not frozen in the bolt housing and the mainspring is not too strong to overcome normal closing of the bolt. With the safety engaged, the lip on the safety pivot that would catch the sear surface on the cocking piece to push the cocking piece back enough to insert a penny is only 0.10" farther than the the normal sear position. Or put another way, you are only compressing the mainspring 1/10" more. Numrich/Gunparts Corp has P14 safetys currently for $6.45. Perhaps Chuck can tell you if they are interchangable between the M 1917 and the P14. I have owned and used one of my P14s since childhood and have always disassembled and and assembled as Chuck has suggested but I tried the method you described and it seems to work fine also. I cannot imagine why your bolt won't come apart, it really is mechanically simple. If you read a lot of back posts on this forum you will find that Chuck has extensive experience with these rifles and I think you should take his advice. Regards Tom
just re looked at the photos chuck,
mate that is one dirty bolt!!!
Ned
i used a crusty bolt for a reason, to show that it was the best way to take a bolt apart, sounds like he has an aftermarket spring,..or blue salts creep in the works..rust, dried grease hard to say until it comes apart
The rear most little "hook" on the firing pin extension was meant to be used for take down by looping a short length of string around it and pulling back on the firing pin while holding the bolt.
Chucks method of using the penny is easier since its hard to hold the bolt, pull back the pin and rotate the bolt sleeve all at the same time.
Regards,
Jim
Another thing that I want to do where I need a good vice, haha. They seem to be invaluable.
Thanks for the info, guys. I'll probably eventually get the bolt apart. I'm not too worried about it since it seems to function fine, but definitely will get it apart once I get a "real" vice.
Thanks again. :D
Attachment 30679or buy the Danish toolQuote:
Originally Posted by chuckindenver
or if i were really a smart ars,...buy my tool for 45.00, it works great...but the tool i used in the picture cost....1 cent...hard to beat that.
why guy try and re build the wheel is beyond me.
a modified Remington 700 cocking piece removal tool works well,
my goal on the hints and how to, is to help the avarage collector shooter with basic tools do the job, without spending money, or paying a gunsmith..
i have all those nice fancy tools, but most guys dont.
Sorry if I offended you - didn't mean to.Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckindenver
As I wrote, this is what I learned by the previous owner when I bought my rifle some 25 years ago and it seemed to be the easier way. He probably didn't know better and I obviously didn't either. Now I've learned something new - thanks.
Thanks for putting this up. I just got a 1917 this past Monday. This should help out quite a bit!
Jim
Can anyone tell me how to remove the extractor from the bolt? Is it the same as on a "normal" mauser bolt
Never mind, figured it out, pry up the front then push.
rotate left past the groove slide it off..
Hard-core buffs of M-17s and other US toys will have a copy of the Base Shop Data as published by Rock Island Arsenal. My copy says that it was reprinted in 1943 for distribution to British Forces by British Army Staff, North America.
It says:
With the safety lock forward, lift up on bolt handle and pull bolt to rear.
Push the safety lock all the way to the rear as shown in fig.2.
Close the bolt.
Insert a small piece of metal between the cocking piece and sleeve.
Pull outward on the bolt stop with the left hand and at the same time remove the bolt from the stock (sic).
Unscrew the firing pin assembly from the bolt by turning the firing pin assembly counte-clockwise.
Place the firing pin assembly on a bench as shown in Fig 2, and pull down on the sleeve.
Remove the piece of metal, give the cocking piece a quarter turn counterclockwise and remove.
Note that in the manual, the "piece of metal" is shown as a disc of approx 1 1/2 inch diameter and having a slot dimensioned to fit over the striker and cocking piece bents.
Howver, in the section on assembly, the manual refers to and illustrates a fixture, (Springfield Armoury tool drawing 28 RFB 4-3A1/2). This device is used to both "cock" the striker and hold it whilst the bolt body is wound onto the thread.
I have only recently scored this document, but I will scan the relevant pages and post them (or at least try).
Another interesting section is that on re-barrelling:
Basically, if the "new headspace was too long, lop of one thread's worth of length from the breech cone and shoulder and refit to receiver. Headspace? Whip out your reamer and bolt-shaped reamer guide and simply deepen the chamber to correct depth using your carpenter's brace to drive the reamer.
The whole manual is about 2 inches thick and goes up to 20mm cannons and 81mm mortars. Scanning and cleaning the whole thing will take a while; watch this space.
Chuck,
It's unfortunate that you only hear from those who "know a better way" when you post a tip. I'm sure I'm not the only one (in fact, I'm sure I'm in the majority) who respects your knowledge and are happy to benefit from it. Don't let the b-----ds wear you down; keep the info coming ... please.
Mike