Inland GI M1 Carbine question

Hey guys, I know you probably get tired of hearing this question, but I have a chance to buy my first M1 Carbine and I want to know if the price is right. I've always wanted one and this is a good chance for me to make this happen. I don't know very much about them and especially don't know anything about pricing. I've tried dozens of online searches and came up empty. So I really hope someone here may be able to help me out.Thank you in advance for any help and advise, it is really appreciated!

So it is an Inland GI M1 carbine. It comes with the sling with oiler, 7 mags, mag pouch for stock, and 200 plus rounds. I haven't seen this firearm in person, but the gentleman I hope to purchase this from says it does not have matching serial numbers. He also said the person he bought it from used it for competition shooting. He said he shot it once and it is accurate, but had a few ejection issues and thinks it might just need some greasing.

He was asking $1000 for it, but I was able to have him go down to $900 for me. Here are a few pictures of it. Is $900 a fair price for this firearm? Or should I pass on this offer and hope to find something of better quality or at a better price? Thanks again for your professional opinions!

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...418ba2th-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...3200ccth-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...03b1c9th-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...1d7becth-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...f63bd4th-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...c6a933th-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...dc5ecdth-1.jpg

tiz, welcome to the forum. The carbine looks like an early Inland mixmaster, and that's not bad. The mags and ammo are worth about $200 so you would be paying about $700 for the carbine. That's fair in todays market. If it was me I would still try and nick him down another hundred, considering that you might have to do something with the bolt problem. HTH.....Frank

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by frankderrico

tiz, welcome to the forum. The carbine looks like an early Inland mixmaster, and that's not bad. The mags and ammo are worth about $200 so you would be paying about $700 for the carbine. That's fair in todays market. If it was me I would still try and nick him down another hundred, considering that you might have to do something with the bolt problem. HTH.....Frank

---

Thanks Frank, that actually helped a lot! I feel much better about the purchase knowing I'm not getting taken advantage of haha. It's a hard thing to spend that much money on something you know very little about. I hope to learn as much as I can about it though once, or if, I get it. Thanks again! Oh and any ideas on the bolt issue? Would some grease fix that problem or do you think it could be something more?

I have seen ones that have sat awial and they did need a good cleaning/lube due to a sticky opp rod. IMO Barring no unforseen issues 900 is not that bad 800 is right on.

I think the seller is asking close to real value. But nothing wrong with trying to get a better deal.

Who knows, might even have some harder to find marked parts when you break it down. Are there any stock markings? Does it have an import stamp? That might generate a price change.

Rebuilt shooter carbine low serial number might get more. You don't show the serial number, but the 12-42 barrel is a hint. A lot of guys sell without a sling and oiler.

Carbine $700-$800
Sling and oiler = $30
Ammo is about $22.50 a box = $90
Six used 15 round mags about $15 ea = $90
One 30 round mag (marking?) about = $25
One type 1 pouch used = $15

My carbine has an 11-42 barrel with a 5 digit serial number. Does yours have a 5 digit serial number?

tiz, the ejection problem is probably an issue with the bolt. It may just need to be taken apart and cleaned and lubed. It may also need some parts, you don't know until you take it apart. If you do it yourself you will need a bolt tool, about $50.00 but if you get into carbines you're going to need some carbine tools and that is one you can't do without. I just got an Underwood that had a broken ejector plunger spring, it may have worked but I caught it upon disassembly and cleaning. HTH.....Frank

Hey everyone thanks for all the great replies! I'm not sure about the serial number and markings as I haven't seen this rifle in person yet. I'll ask him about it and see what he says. I'll let y'all know once I hear from him.

'does not have matching serial numbers'

No carbine originally had matching numbers. The only thing numbered is the receiver. Carbines with numbered parts were previously owned by Bavarian police and refinished/numbered there before being sold back into the USA by an importer. Your carbine appears to have its rebuild refinish in very good condition and most likely contains a mixture of parts. Looks like a Winchester stock, for example.
When you say 'Inland', are you going by the barrel? You go by what's on the receiver under the rear sight overhang, but manufacturer can also be told by the serial number.
I don't know of any competition using the carbine. They are pretty accurate anyway if everything's up to spec.
The bolt will need to be disassembled, cleaned, inspected and put back together. A short-cut is to blast it out with carb spray, working the extractor and ejector, then soak in Marvel Mystery Oil. Drain off excess and check the extractor and ejector spring action and see that the firing pin is loose in the bolt.
I would not buy it sight unseen at the asking price. Paying over $350 for an unknown carbine is risky. The barrel should be inspected and gauged. It should be checked for headspace. The gas piston should move freely and look clean. The slide should not jump out of it's groove in the receiver when cycling. The action should pass a static function check. The trigger housing should be snug in the receiver. When the action is 'hung' on the recoil plate, the barrel should be well above the barrel channel in the stock, and should settle to within about 1/16" of the channel when the stock is held with one hand and the buttplate smacked several times with the other. In other words, the barrel should not be forced down to assemble the gun and neither should the barrel lie on the wood.
There's really a lot more, but you get the picture that there is a lot to look for. It would take several pages of this thread to explain them all.

Haha inland44, sounds like you're volunteering to be my official before purchase firearm inspector for this whole deal! When can I expect your arrival?

Serious note thanks for all that advice. Unfortunately I won't be able to test it that extensively before buying. I was expecting more of a general inspection. Checking for rust, looking through the bore to check the rifling, check the basic action, ect. Anything in particular I should be looking for?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by INLAND44

'does not have matching serial numbers'

No carbine originally had matching numbers. The only thing numbered is the receiver. Carbines with numbered parts were previously owned by Bavarian police and refinished/numbered there before being sold back into the USA by an importer. Your carbine appears to have its rebuild refinish in very good condition and most likely contains a mixture of parts. Looks like a Winchester stock, for example.
When you say 'Inland', are you going by the barrel? You go by what's on the receiver under the rear sight overhang, but manufacturer can also be told by the serial number.
I don't know of any competition using the carbine. They are pretty accurate anyway if everything's up to spec.
The bolt will need to be disassembled, cleaned, inspected and put back together. A short-cut is to blast it out with carb spray, working the extractor and ejector, then soak in Marvel Mystery Oil. Drain off excess and check the extractor and ejector spring action and see that the firing pin is loose in the bolt.
I would not buy it sight unseen at the asking price. Paying over $350 for an unknown carbine is risky. The barrel should be inspected and gauged. It should be checked for headspace. The gas piston should move freely and look clean. The slide should not jump out of it's groove in the receiver when cycling. The action should pass a static function check. The trigger housing should be snug in the receiver. When the action is 'hung' on the recoil plate, the barrel should be well above the barrel channel in the stock, and should settle to within about 1/16" of the channel when the stock is held with one hand and the buttplate smacked several times with the other. In other words, the barrel should not be forced down to assemble the gun and neither should the barrel lie on the wood.
There's really a lot more, but you get the picture that there is a lot to look for. It would take several pages of this thread to explain them all.

---

school is in session, all VERY good points INLAND

I don't think extraction issues will be fixed with grease. There are some good threads on the various carbine forums about extraction and ejection problems. On my first carbine, I ran down the list on one of the threads. First isolated a magazine I knew worked. Wrong or extra power recoil spring can cause problems. Correct spring should measure 10.25 inches. Ordered a new and correct one and problems got better. Seriously cleaned bolt, bolt parts and chamber. Problems got better. Rebuilt bolt with new ejector, extractor and springs and problem went away. Sometimes you need to run down the check list; several things can contribute, none are particularly expensive to fix.