Printable View
Picked up a rather well used SA M1 at a show today. In order to get it zero'd at 100 yds I had to bottom out the elevation adjustment, drift the front sight most all the way right and move the rear sight several clicks off center to the left. I don't think this is normal but I don't know enough about Garands to know whats causing it. What do you experts think? Also, the s/n is 108xxxx, I was told this puts it's production date somewhere in mid 1942. Is this correct?
U.S. Military Dates of Manufacture (OldGuns.Net)
U.S. Military Dates of Manufacture
Started by Badger, 01-01-2010 08:48 AM
M1 Garand Dates of Manufacture (Born on Date)
M1 Garand Born on Date
Started by Badger, 01-01-2010 07:52 AM
located above in the stickey thread
the wider sight base is just for that reason
you can always check to see that the barrel is straight
1) find some one with straightness gages
2) strip the rifle down. remove handguards, remove middle band - place a level on both sides- if barrel is bent you will see it. -
not a common thing but a friend brougnt in a rifle that would not zero
after checking everything else we found the barrel was bent
If someone disassembled the rear sight base and did not get it centered correctly when re-assembled (i.e. snapped in place) it could have some puzzling results. In addition it's not unheard to have the windage not be perfectly centered, some rifles have unique characteristics and are off center, again, the sight base may be improperly seated. If the rear sight aperture was changed, it may need some relief so it isn't bottoming out, which leads to the front sight, does it look filed down? You didn't really tell us where your shots were landing before the final adjustments. Probably didn't explain that well but maybe you'll understand. Here is a link for centering:
http://www.biggerhammer.net/manuals/garand/sighting.htm
Although you may have more serious problems, I believe it best to start with the cheapest and easieist fix and eliminate those possibilities first. Good luck.
Thanks for the replies. No signs of a bent barrel unless the bend is so slight as not to be detectable without a straightness gage. The first 8 shots out of the rifle with no sight changes from the way I got it went about 6'' high and 4'' right at 50 yds, with both sights centered. The rear sight appears to be correctly assembled and the front sight is the same height as the spares I have. I found the stock to be a very loose fit, no tension on the trigger gard when closing and the barreled action would fall out on it's own when turned up side down. Also noticed it was possible to move the action forward and backward a bit with the trigger gard closed. One other thing I found was that the rear handgard was tight up against the stock on the right side. What I've done so far is to relieve the handgard and bed the action in a different tighter fitting stock. Waiting for the bedding to cure then I'll see it it improved anything.
I had one that was bent back where it's thickest. I played with index for days until I applied a straightness gauge. It was bent in front of the chamber. Had to be like that since the factory. I had to use a hydraulic press to straighten it. You may not see a slight bend without a gauge. I couldn't. Or it could be the stock. Have fun.Quote:
Originally Posted by vintage hunter
Thanks Jim. I remember you commenting on the bent barrel a while back. Hopefully I don't have that problem but one never knows. One other thing I've noticed is the rear handgard is tight against the action. I know on an M14/M1A the only places it should contact is the handgard clip and band, does the same hold true for the Garand as well?
But, how tight is tight? I don't think that's the problem. The only way to rule the bent barrel out is to try a gauge. Then you can move on. Then index, tight or loose components and so on...
I would tighten the fit in the stock first. There's several temporary methods. I generally use strips of silicone rubber, but regualr old large rubber bands might do. Just clamp them between the forward portion of the trigger housing and the bottom of the stock to start. A decent barrel indexing check can be done with a sensitive bubble level or two mounted on the front sight base (front sight removed) and the sight flats on the receiver (sometimes the rear bottom of the receiver will work also) .
If Jims advice does not help you go over to Culvers Shooting Page Forums and seek advice from Gus Fisher. Gus posts quite a bit on that forum and will be able to help you out.
That VAR barrel you have is considered to be, at least, on par with SA and is quite desirable. Good luck.
With a action moving in the stock that much accuracy will suffer. No matter how tight the trigger guard clamps it will still move fore and aft if stock is worn
Only real fix is bedding the stock or it is possible to glue thin strips of wood veneer in the stock where the receiver legs rest. The trigger guard should also have resistance approx 3/4 -1 /2 inch form closing
If you dont have this trigger guard lugs are flat or stock wood is compressed or a combination of both.
May be better off getting a new stock.
You need to get these issues fixed first before trying to diagnose anything else
JMO
Update on the old M-1. No bent barrel according to the bore gage! I bedded the action in a beech stock i picked up at a gun show 10-12 years ago, trimmmed the rear handgard so theres no contact with the stock, reciever or barrel except at the ring and band. Dressed the crown, and added a thin o-ring between the upper handgard and gas cylinder so the two won't slam against one another during recoil. Heres an 8 shot group at 100yds after the mods. Ammo used was handloads with 168gr Hornady OTM's and IMR 4064 powder.
Looks like you are on the right track.
If stock fit is bad your groups will be bad, bedding did the trick
:madsmile:Might have been better if the brass from the 6th round had'nt bounced off the corner post of the porch and beaned my right in the forehead. I was a little gunshy after that so the last two rounds were flinchers.