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When I aim at a target with my n°4, I've noted, when I practise some dry release, that the release of the firing pin, pushed by the strong spring, creates a vibration that changed the position of my foresight under the target.
How can I avoid this vibration?
:wave:
This suggests your trigger pressing technique is at fault. Try more dry firing.
Given the nature of firearm designs, there is always some form of "vibration" associated when firing. Barrel jump ---accuracy of grouping at the target and location of the group --- at the target will vary with due to the vibrations generated by the mechanism and the vibrations generated by pushing the bullet down the barrel. Accuracy will improve with minimization of the vibration. It is not going to go away. Try pulling the trigger the same way every time and sight in accordingly. If this becomes a bother, you might consider taking up golf.
If easily frustrated I would recommend against that.Quote:
Originally Posted by breakeyp
Make sure you are not 'Dragging wood', a term used when part of the trigger finger also makes contact with the stock or trigger guard and when pressure to the trigger is applied, it also pushes against the rifle, causing the point of aim to move at the moment of release.
We could be moving into "voodoo" territory here. Lou Cypher! "Angel Heart" reference?
The wrist if the SMLE butt is designed to be a hand hold for bayonet fighting, not anatomically aligned for slow-fire shooting.
That said, one of the best summaries of "Trigger Release" to be found is Chapter 4 of James Sweet's "Competitive Rifle Shooting".
This chapter covers mechanical fundamentals as well as physiological factors.
It is critical that the trigger be set up to specification; with a clean, two stage pull.
My personal two-bobs worth is that I consistently get better results when I draw the trigger to the rear using the middle joint of my forefinger. Those with small paws may have trouble with this technique.
The other major issue is breathing and holding. When I was a young lad, we were taught to acquire the target, focus on the FRONT sight and breathe naturally. You will see the front sight rising and falling past the aiming mark/bullseye as you breathe.
Then as the "Zen" kicked in, as the sight passed over the aiming mark on an OUTWARDS breath, you gently stopped breathing, confirmed the frontsight position and applied your chosen trigger pressure.
THEN, as the rifle recoiled, you started breathing again and watched to see if the front sight once more traversed the bull. If it didn't, there was every chance that you had pulled the shot wide. Working with a coach / scorer, this "reading" could be used to predict the actual fall of shot with some accuracy. The reason for the poor fall of shot can often be attributed to a combination of poor body position and poor trigger technique. A major problem is to make the trigger finger curl and draw back the trigger without the other fingers also curling and applying a twisting motion to the rifle at the worst possible time.
One final trick to solving the "poor position" problem is to acquire the target and then do the breathing routine with your eyes closed. After four or five slow breaths, open your eyes ans see where the front sight is aligned. Adjust your body and legs left or right and your elbows for elevation, and then repeat.
I guess that my technique is not to bad https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...u5000web-1.jpg.
I'm really speaking about the effect of the spring when it is released.
You're absolutely right Bruce, I like this film and especially when Robert de Niro eats an egg...Code:We could be moving into "voodoo" territory here. Lou Cypher! "Angel Heart" reference?
Well unless you have some special 303 air rifle, I can say I've never noticed it.
Lou, To avoid this vibration, I suggest you stop practicing and fretting about stuff that is totally irrelevant and start shooting. If your bullets are hitting where your rifle is aiming, then that's all you need to concern yourself with
Gents, when I was posting the picture of my target, I wondered why this was not so bad despite "the vibration".
So, I applied some advised read in this post, then I practised today some dry firing (thanks MK VII). I took care of the position of my wrist on the butt, (thanks Bruce in Oz)
I noticed that the "vibration" is noticeable when the firing pin comes forward and create a 'clack' (dry firing), but it is not due to the rifle itself, but to me.
So I'm faulty. Thank you for your advises.
:o:o
Be happy now you do not have to take up golf.
Go over to the knowledge library and download a copy of 'Shoot to Live'. It will help explain some of the mechanics behind it and it also gives some ways to practice.
This book should be reprinted and become required reading for all new rifle shooters.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cdn303
I agree wholeheartedly as to "Shoot To Live!". It is without doubt the best book ever written on shooting with the Number 4 Rifle.
When we were learning trigger control, there was an exercise we did, sometimes for a quarter-hour at a time. It takes 2 people.
What we did was place a 10-cent coin (US dime is the same size, as your old silver 50-Cmes if you can find one) across the front-sight HOOD of the rifle and dry-fire it like that. If the coin drops, you are doing something wrong. If the coin drops only AFTER the firing-pin goes forward, you are doing it right. With practice, you can actually get to a point at which you can dry-fire the rifle.... and the coin does not even drop.
It's a nuisance, but it is also a very good exercise to help you gain CONTROL of the trigger.
Hope this helps.
.
Good advice for dry fire practice smellie. We used US dimes on the barrels of the M16A1 rifle during basic rifle marksmanship training at Fort Benning when I was there in the early 1980's. We practiced this in the prone indoors on the old barracks floors at Harmony Church. It'll teach you not to jerk the trigger for sure.
Talking of which, when we were training on the Mobat and Wombat recoilless anti-tank guns, we were told that they were soooooo super smooth that you could stand a two shilling piece on the breech while it fired and it'd remain there. It was absolutely correct! But only partly................ You COULD stand a 2/- piece on the breech ring while it fired - but it wouldn't be there afterwards. Mind you, the old target tank would still be there because the rounds inevitably went, well......., anywhere!