having a tough time removing the screw with a regular screw driver
any help is most appreciated
having a tough time removing the screw with a regular screw driver
any help is most appreciated
oh boy you did it now
How far should I disassemble my Enfield before taking it to the range the 1st time?
What's the problem, a poor fitting screw driver, or has the screw been staked in position, by centre punching the trigger guard adjacent to the slot of the screw head, displacing some metal into the slot locking it in position?
1/ Get or grind a screwdriver that fits properly
2/ If it is staked and you need to get it out, gently pein the incursion back out of the slot and it should come out
It goes without saying that carefully locking down the rifle into a padded shop vice allows considerably more torque to be applied to a recalcitrant screw in comparison to trying to juggle the rifle and a screwdriver at the same time. Just a thought...
Impact screw driver and a sledge hammer ... (or maybe not).
I was told not to remove anything unless it was broken. Is the screw broken?
I was told: If all else fails force it. If it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway.
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No, seriously putting in a padded vice is a good idea.
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Whilst this is an odd screw to seize, stuck screws aren't uncommon to find in the gunsmithing trade. If you've the padded vise jaws and a drill press, place a bit in the chuck , bear down on the screw and use either a strap wrench or some other torque multipler to attempt to turn the screw whilst it's secured. (Power disconnected to the press, please!) Generally best done with two people.
Another very effective option is to use a well fitting driver that can withstand rapid medium light blows from a hammer whilst the driver is exerting torque. Also generally best done with two people unless you have some Khyber Pass skills. This technique works wonders when properly executed, but can disasterous if not! I find it most often useful when working on old Browning A5s with their skinny screw slots that won't take a lot of brute twisting force. (Both of these techniques were taught to me many moons ago by a master rifle builder who has far more experience than I on high-end sporters with ultra fancy stocks.)
Sledge hammer is too heavy. And the imact driver tends to jump out of the screw slot due to it's internal springs, I guess. But the concept itself isn't bad!
Is the slot on the screw head toast? If the screw is shot you can use an easy out but on small fasteners like on a rifle it takes a lot of care to not cause a disaster in the drilling stage or actual removal. I've only ever used one once on a rifle and it definitely was a last resort. Also I have saved old screwdriver shanks and blades to use to give the screw a light tap on the head utilizing the slot to help break any corrosion up that may be binding the threads. Die grinders and heat I'd say would be two terribly bad ideas! Maybe penetrating oil could help?
This is the best suggestion, if you can arrange the setup. A screwdriver slipping out of a slot will gouge the rifle, and maybe you as well.
There is one method not yet posted, and it has sometimes worked for me. After squirting a couple of drops (you don't want to soak the woodwork) of GOOD penetrating oil around the screw head, and having had the self control to leave it overnight, or at least while you make a cup of tea, try TIGHTENING the screw. Just a couple of degrees can be enough to break the friction. Even if you can hardly see the movement, tightening/loosening/tightening/loosening... can slowly "rock" the screw loose.
As to staked screws - the setup proposed by jmoore is capable of removing staked screws (it did on my M1917) if the screwdriver bit is a really good fit. Since when I know that staked screws are not a 100% guarantee that the rifle has never been dismantled.