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Something that Frederick303 caught that I completely missed. The front sight protector on the nose cap is extremely close to the front sight base. It does not touch but there is only .005 clearance. Could some one suggest a coarse of action or should I just leave it?
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...02_62571-1.jpg
Thank you for your time
If you're not having problems, leave it alone. If you don't fully understand what he said you may create problems.
If I was you, before I delved any deeper, I'd establish whether it was a) the barrel over tightened or b) the fore-end was warped and twisted. A surface plate or a visual with a couple of straight-edges should quickly establish which is the culprit
Once you have decided that, you can decide your next course of action
I had the similar problem with the reproduction SMLE fore-ends, the nose cap inletting was a few degrees out of rotation, had to patch it & refit to bring it back in to alignment.
As it appears to be a Fulton match regulated rifle, I expect in the end it will end up being a warped forend.
There are two sorts of wood fore-ends that you all ought to be aware of. There's those that have warped and there's those that haven't warped - yet!
I'm with Fred and Peter. It's most likely a warped forend. I've seen many. Most on SMLE's. I have one in for repair now that is slightly warped. It's a Lithgow rebuilt in Indian service and restocked with Ishapore mahogany.
I will just throw a couple of thoughts into the ring.
Do the ears appear twisted when sighting? if so, yes the timber may be warped.
When the front nosecap screws are removed, does the nosecap straighten?
With the nosecap and topwood removed, does the barrel bear heavily to one side?
Has the forewood got a noticable twist and does the topwood sit flat?
When replacing the nosecap, does it line straight up with only down pressure required to slide into place, or does it require a physical twist to fit?
Has the nosecap been checked to ensure it is not bent/twisted?
Just the first things us fool armourers check with the eyeball before jumping to any conclusions.
Yes Peter, I know it's called CAP, nose, but I'm an Aussie and I don't care, besides, it was a bloody pom that started that "kingscrew" nonsense.
But at least you're calling the nose cap exactly what it is Muffer! That's it......., a nose cap. Unlike the king screw. Anyway, who was the pom who started this 'king screw' nonsense
I checked the straightness of the forearm on a sheet of plate glass and it does indeed appear to be slightly twisted. It also appears to be quite dry.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...102_6270-1.jpg
Should I try some raw linseed oil?
While you have the timber off, give us a shot of the draws square on.
have you fired it? how is the accuracy?
I haven't fired it yet. I was going to today but we have had about 4 inches of rain so hopefully next weekend.
Thanks for that.
The action is favouring the right side, the draws are heavily marked here in relation to the left side.
The action when locked up is pulling down also on the right, as can be seen by the shot of the front receiver seating.
To my way of thinking, this means your barrel is pushed to the right of centre in the channel.
When the nosecap is fitted, it tries to pull the barrel to the left and down, as the major timber support for the nosecap is at the bottom, the tension created by the barrel twists the nosecap and subsequently, the fore end of the timber, which in time creates a permenant twist to the forewood.
The draw problem needs to be corrected first, once the bedding is correct and the barrel sitting square, all else corrects itself, the twist identified in your pic of the barrel channel, is not sufficiently extreme enough and if you ensure adaquate channel clearence up to the front timber bearing points, the twist will correct itself.
A soak of BLO will never go astray either.
.......just my thoughts, feel free to ignore them.
Good to see a thoughtful reply on what is often passed over as a non event,the nosecap fit. Along with muffet.2008's suggestions here, just because its a very simple, non invasive check I'd first also look into whether the front cross screw is flogged out in the wood, and or if the rear nut is not sitting level when the screw is tight as someone else mentioned. It'd be shame to reshape warped wood only to find a mechanical answer after wood has been shaved or tweaked.Quote:
Originally Posted by muffett.2008
Just some pictures of the nose cap area
The barrel seems to be bearing on the area circled.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...102_6280-1.jpg
The hole for the cross screw.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...102_6281-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...102_6282-1.jpg