Enfield Identification

Hello i am new to this site and to the Lee Enfield rifle. I would like to find out some more information about my rifle. It is in overall really good shape with strong rifling. Stock has one repair and some gouges. Marking on receiver is NO4MK1 ROF (F) 6/43. I would guess the 6/43 is June 1943? Is that screw in the receiver supposed to be there? It does not look like it serves a purpose and wondering if someone has bubbad it? Attachment 34978Attachment 34979Attachment 34980Attachment 34981Attachment 34982Attachment 34983Attachment 34984Attachment 34985Attachment 34986

Sorry i do not have a picture of the rifle put together. I have it apart right now to work on the trigger and seeing all the marks has got me curious to the rifles origins. Any help would be much appreciated.

Appears to be a fairly typical No.4 Mk.1 made at the Fazakerly factory near Liverpool. The screw is the ejector, and is a #3BA thread. EA prefix is typical of this production, many (most?) of which have an A-suffix on the number.

Yes there is an A at the end of the serial number. Any idea as to what the value might be? I paid 200 dollars for it and it had a broken magazine spring which I have replaced. And it shot a mile high which I have corrected by replacing the -015 front sight with a 075

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In the nicest possible way, can I ask exactly what you intend to do to the trigger. You ought to bear in mind the old phrase that '....... if it ain't broke, don't fix it' When an enthusiastic amateur gets into the bowels of a No4 trigger mech, one can very quickly go past the point of no return to the point of defective pull-offs, no pull offs to ............ I won't go on but you get my drift.

Can I politely suggest that you read a thread elsewhere on the forum (someone much cleverer with computers will resurrect it if you want to read it......) that goes into the why's and wherefores of setting these trigger mechanisms. On the other hand, if you're an old hand at these, then my apologies for my 2c's worth, based on nothing more than limited experience

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Originally Posted by Peter Laidler

In the nicest possible way, can I ask exactly what you intend to do to the trigger. You ought to bear in mind the old phrase that '....... if it ain't broke, don't fix it' When an enthusiastic amateur gets into the bowels of a No4 trigger mech, one can very quickly go past the point of no return to the point of defective pull-offs, no pull offs to ............ I won't go on but you get my drift.

Can I politely suggest that you read a thread elsewhere on the forum (someone much cleverer with computers will resurrect it if you want to read it......) that goes into the why's and wherefores of setting these trigger mechanisms. On the other hand, if you're an old hand at these, then my apologies for my 2c's worth, based on nothing more than limited experience

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I was thinking no more than polishing. But I would like to figure out why the trigger acts the way it does. It is as if it is not a two stage trigger but a long but not overly heavy single stage. I like a light first stage with a firm creep free second stage not overly heavy but heavy enough you know it is there. Yes i am an amateur at this but thinking that polising by hand should be ok not planning on taking a grinder to anything. I found a video i thought about buying before i do anything AGI - Products Enfield Rifle Trigger Job. I may just clean everything up and put i back together and try it again.

Any chance you could take and post a few pics of the trigger in the trigger-guard? We’re looking to see that it still has two clear “Humps” on the surface that engages the sear. I’ve seen a number where an “enthusiastic amateur” has modified this area in an effort to eliminate the first stage in an effort to make it more like a sporting rifle.

It looks as though both of the humps are there.

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Originally Posted by Enfield_Fan

It looks as though both of the humps are there.

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Agreed. Time to head over to the sticky: Index of Peter Laidler's on-line series of articles.......
Index of Peter Laidler's on-line series of articles.......(Click Here)
Look for the ones titled The trigger Pull-Off parts one and two. I suspect most of what you`ll need can be found there.

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Originally Posted by No4Mk1(T)

Agreed. Time to head over to the sticky: Index of Peter Laidler's on-line series of articles.......
Index of Peter Laidler's on-line series of articles.......(Click Here)
Look for the ones titled The trigger Pull-Off parts one and two. I suspect most of what you`ll need can be found there.

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Thank you I will do some reading when I get home from work.

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Before attempting the trigger, read all the avrious articles published here by Peter Laidler.

Peter takes you through all of the interlinked components and how to set the up.

Index of Peter Laidler's on-line series of articles.......

After reading the two trigger articles I went to check my trigger guard and it is definately bowed up in the front. Wondering if this is causing the trigger to act the way it is?

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It could! The trigger guard must be flat.

There is a school of thought that you can adjust the trigger pull-off by bending the trigger guard '.......a bit'. It's a bit of an unknown quantity though, like saying that you will make your car go faster by pumping the tyres up '....a bit more'. See what I mean. Do it properly making sure that the trigger guard is flat

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Peter Laidler

It could! The trigger guard must be flat.

There is a school of thought that you can adjust the trigger pull-off by bending the trigger guard '.......a bit'. It's a bit of an unknown quantity though, like saying that you will make your car go faster by pumping the tyres up '....a bit more'. See what I mean. Do it properly making sure that the trigger guard is flat

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I really appreciate your contributions I was reading through the articles yesterday and there is an absolute wealth of knowledge there. Do you think it would be worthwhile to attempt to straighten the one I have?

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Yes, straighten it. It's not difficult to dolly one flat again with a bit of care. Just make sure that when you've done it, that it fits and sits flat in the magazine well housing of the fore-end. Make sure that the magazine fits into it as well of course!

Success! It fits the stock quite well now before you could see almost 1/8 of an inch gap between the wood and it mates up nicely now. Still thinking of taking the sear out and cleaning all the crud off of it and maybe polishing it with some crocus cloth. Having a tough time getting the pin out though. The trigger pin came out easily with a brass punch. The sear pin is much tighter and I bent my punch. Going to bring one of my steel ones home from work tonight and try that.

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So I ran into an issue. The trigger guard fit fine in the stock. When I put the barreled action in the stock and then put the trigger guard on it does not sit flush. I put the rear screw in and then you could push it down but it would spring back. Went ahead and put the front screw in and drew the front down. It is not contacting the stock in the middle now though. Went ahead and put the bolt in and tried the trigger. You can feel both stages now which is good the trigger is much improved. However if you pull back to the second stage and then release it does not reset. The trigger moves forward but when you pull it again there is no second stage no defined stop. Is this a problem or am I just being nit picky?


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Went back and read both articles looks like the trigger guard should not be under tension and that releasing the trigger should reset to like it had never been pulled.

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If the trigger guard is bowing when you screw the front trigger guard screw down, then carefully scrape away the wood beneath it that is causing it to bow. When it is laying flat in its recess, that's how it should be. Screw up the front trigger guartd screw hard against the collar and spring washer. NOW test the trigger pull-off and set about any adjustment frm this position

Hmmm there is a bushing or spacer that goes between the trigger guard and receiver but no washer. I was very careful when taking it apart and don't think I lost anything. Maybe the previous owner lost it when they were monkeying with it. I really am enjoying learning about this rifle and what makes it tick.

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Yes, the spring washer goes under the front trigger guard screw - between it and the trigger guard to stop it unscrewing. BDL Ltd in SC will have them as will others

The screw had the lock washer on it. I may have messed up I scraped the stalk to fit the trigger guard and got it better but not perfect. Kept scraping and it wasn't getting any better. Finally found trigger guard was hitting on magazine release. Doh. Thinking I may need to bed it now so it makes good contact.

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