Hi,
Having just acquired one, could someone let me know when they switched from brass to steel throats for the No.5 / L1A3 / etc. scabbards?
Thanks,
Mark
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Hi,
Having just acquired one, could someone let me know when they switched from brass to steel throats for the No.5 / L1A3 / etc. scabbards?
Thanks,
Mark
I seem to recall that while there were steel and brass mouthpieces, they both came with the same part number and it was pot luck whichever type turned up from Ordnance. Both types were still coming through right up until the last L1 bayonets were withdrawn
Thanks. I had assumed that brass predated steel, but it sounds like its just a production variation.
On another matter, am I right in thinking the scabbards were finished in phosphate + suncorite?
Yep, dead right!
I would havee thought that steel throats would have come first, due to wartime need for brass. Once both were in service, it makes sense that they made no distinction.
Sent from my PG06100 using Tapatalk 2
Valid point Mary's dad. Maybe you could interrogate the No5 and Sten (for the No7 of course) and No4 (for the No9) parts list and confirm one way or the other. Even if the part numbers are the same or just continued on, the drawing numbers should identify a difference. This would happen occasionally with other items and you'd see an annotation by the original part with WSE alongside - indicating to Armourers 'when stocks exhausted'
I opened a small pack of 5 mouthpoieces a year or so ago, packed in 1978 or 88 (the old package is ripped across the label) and they were steel - which I still have. They were most common
Sarah and Roberts dad!
Not that I have any phosphate or suncorite of course...;) The original finish is almost completely gone, so I'm planning to re-finish it in satin black metal paint as a more or less visually correct substitute.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Laidler
If you bead blast to get a good key and paint and keep baking with a few thin coats of engine exhaust paint to build up the thickness a bit, I understand that this is pretty good. It hasn't got the protection of the phosphate of course but then again, you're not on guard or doing your bayonet drills at Nee Soon Camp either!
Anyone tried barbeque paint..................? I could never understand why anyone would want to paint their barbeque thinggy!
Hammerite smooth black satin (in the spray can) , this can produce a good finish, like Peter says, thin coats will do the trick, without a primer a good key is needed, have used it a few times with good results.Quote:
Originally Posted by peregrinvs
There was a company in Utah that made a British Black Gun Spray paint that works very well. I don't know if they still make it but I have used this can for touch-ups for years.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...ishBlack-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...shBlack2-1.jpg
Way better than Bar B Cue spray paint......
AZB
That's very interesting Beagle........ Maybe someone could buy a can and give it a try over a straight bead blasted finish AND then follow it up over a phosphated finish and into the oven
What about giving it a try instead of sunkorite Brian and give us all the low down on the results. Just a quick read of what I can on the can, it LOOKS like a spirit based oven-bake-to-cure paint. Thanks Beagle
When the paint shops were closing down at out big medium and Base workshops, I was tasked to look into the alternatives and one of them was whether sunkorite could be put into aerosol cans and used as a 'quick-spray fix at all repair levels. Together with a yellow blank firing adaptor paint. There were problems.... The first was that the cans would have to be regularly shaken to stir the paint that was notorious for settling into a thick glue and b) where do the unit Armourers bake it to cure it? Anyway..............
Just been through the British bayonet collection. Indeed both steel and brass throats are present in equal numbers across the date ranges.
If any one is in need of No 5 scabbards with brass throats. World
wide Arms have some ex Australian Army scabbards in stock, but they are expensive.
[to stir the paint that was notorious for settling into a thick glue and b) where do the unit Armourers bake it to cure it? Anyway..............[/QUOTE]
Pete, I would have thought the N.A.F.F.I would have been the first port of call. They did a good job of Baking thier Pies rock hard!.........;)
The dear old NAAFI. It stood for No Ambition And Xuck-all Interest if I remember correctly! They also had a tea stirring spoon that could have been used to stir the paint too. But it was always chained to the counter
The exact stuff I was planning to use. Great minds...Quote:
Originally Posted by bigduke6
Peter, I for one have tried BBQ paint on of all things my BBQ. Several years ago I resurected our 30 year old Webber grill and applied several coats of this high temp paint. The grill now looks like I just took it out of the box.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Laidler
Back on topic, can you tell us where we can find the proper throats & screw for the No. 5 scabbard, either in the US or the UK?
Thanks,
Gary
Silly question but could it in fact be a scabbard for an L1A1 bayonet they had (at least the Aussie ones) brass throats
When I was doing unit inspections & repairs. I ensured that all No.5 Bayonets had the steel throated scabbards. And all L1A3/4 had the brass throated variants. I cant remember why this was though. I think if I recall correctly, it was something drummed into us in Armourers Basic Training courses by certain isntructors at that time. There MUST have been a reason for this!
It is VERY usual to have to remove some metal from inside the throats of the Brass variants to make certain bayonets fit. But the steel ones fitted in every case without metal removal.
I STILL ensure that every No.5 Bayonet I recieve in for my collection/sale/ repair. Has a STEEL throat in the scabbard!..........Old habits die hard, & I am certain that MOST Armourers do work to the similar Maxim. 'I was Trained in the best tried & tested ways of my Profession. That was expireince gained over MANY years. & that was the RIGHT way to do it,& I continue down that path today'.............Of course, we all pick up corner cutting habits & ways of getting things done a little differently over the years. But the Original Training methods were indeed tried & proven, If you stuck to them. You couldnt go far wrong!.........
Persopnally, I didn't care what the scabbard throat was......., brass or steel. You can be rest assured that whatever you put on whichever bayonets, the crunchies would just do what they wanted to do!
It might be your lucky day GBalke. \i'll see what';s in my cupboard. PM your address
This has made a nice day........... a Spitfire has just flown over........ No....wait....., there's TWO of them!
Before (seller's original picture) and after pictures. For aesthetic amusement I have left the brass throat unpainted. Obviously not in remotely the same league as Bigduke's amazing No.5 bayonet restoration, but I'm happy enough to add it to my bayonet spares collection.:)
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...45831a49-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...cfbaa118-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...67bd9348-1.jpg
Are you sure that you haven't got the mouthpiece in the wrong way around...........
With the frog stud UPWARDS, the ring of the crosspiece should be on the LEFT side as the bayonet is slid into the scabbard.
To be honest, I could never understand why the mouthpiece wasn't symmetrical and allow the bayonet in either way, just like the SMLE or spikes. It didn't make any difference to the blokes because on operations, you just had the scabbard on your pouches or belt wherever it was most comfortable. Even in camp, on guard, ranges or training was the same
I don't think so - it'll only assemble in one way. Admittedly I haven't actually tested it with a suitable blade yet as they're all currently well buried.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Laidler