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I shall soon be replacing the stock on my L39 rifle after re-linseed oiling. It is my understanding that milspec grease was/is used on the action etc. when stocking up/replacing the wood. Is there an equivalent type grease that can be used which can be obtained on the UK civilian market? Also, when greasing up, was the grease also applied to the barrel section of the wood on these types of rifles or is it left alone because of the heat from the barrel?
:confused:
It was GREASE, XG-279. I don't know anyone who has it commercially but I suspect that maybe........, just maybe, someone on this site might chip in and be able to help you with a small pot. Half a toothgpaste tube smeared on with a toothbrush should more than do the job
Looks like your basic wheel bearing grease to me, but here's the specs:
Grease, Automotive and ArtilleryJoint Service Designation: XG-279
NATO Code: G-403
Link here:
http://www.silmid.com/getattachment/...N91-7-TDS.aspx
XG 279 is the Joint Service designation to "General Automotive & Artillary" grease with a temperature range of -54c to +105c its NATO code is
G-403. If you can find a similar spec grease on general sale I guess it should be OK.
Every L39A1 I've ever examined was stocked up without any grease evident on the metalwork. The suncorite should be more than adequate for most conceivable conditions.
What Thunderbox says is correct about the L39's in that unlike the L42's, none of them seem to be greased. maybe because they weren't expected to be used in harsh climatic conditions etc etc. However, the EMER doesn't differentiate between the 39 and 42 so I would grease it up anyway.
It's this grease and the OX18/24 and 52 plus a little helping of linseed that gives Armourers shops and their overalls their distinct aroma
DPL,
..........................and there was me thinking you were an 'Old Spice' man!
ATB
Okay, I'll bite. Why would one want to put grease(stocking-up, axle, chicken, etc.) on the metal action parts prior to placing it/them into the stocks? Does it help prevent corrosion? I really am curious re this, so TIA f/an answer.
To prevent corrosion. Believe me, it really does work
i not realy sure but if it uses the grease as a m1 garand use lubriplate it works like what the military used to use hope this helps you.
Thanks, Peter. I just wish you folks had used it on the bodies of the1954 MGTF & 1960 MK1. AH Sprite I owned here in the States. They both ended up more Bondo than steel, altho I'll have to admit that my buddy, Tony, still has the TF.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Laidler
Well Donzi, you lot only have yourselves to blame, as the really good handbooks will tell you, these cars were to be washed regularly in a mix of black tea and water, this prevents rust and corrosion and is guaranteed to protect all painted surfaces.........but oh no, you blighters just had to throw it all in the harbour, didn't you?:beerchug:
Thanks very much guys for your excellent guidance and for the DEFSTAN. We have bearing grease at work made by Silmid so might be lucky that it might be similar stuff. I have some time yet before replacing the wood as it is still yet to be polished with fine wire wool. But if comes up like the butt has, I shall be well happy. I assume from the comments that the grease is only applied to all external areas of the action that are in contact with the wood? I guess this would also include the socket area when replacing the butt?
Well, Scone, @ least we left before they threw us out, like your lot. Just joking, buddy.Quote:
Originally Posted by muffett.2008
Grease XL-279 (G-403) is availible for sale at Sil-Mid.com
XG279 GREASE G-403 3KG CAN DEF/STAN91-27/2
Yes DEFINATELY in the butt socket.
MG Cars were made from water soluble steel and I heard that when they were exported, they went deck cargo on submarines. And didn't they have a reputation................ One of my best old pals was Terry Mitchell, the Engineering director of the MG Works. He decided to hand build himself an MGB GT from parts after he retired so before he did, he made a point of sourcing every last bit he could. He had a brand new bare bodyshell - less wings, doors boot and tail gate in his garage and set about protecting it.
He said to me afterwards that it was a good job that they only guaranteed them for a year because with all of the built-in rust traps, poor joints and welds, leaky seams and poor fit of everything., that there was not even a snowball in hells chance of one remaining water and rust proof for more that 2 weeks. I had a few of them including an MGB GT V8 (that now lives in Tasmania.....) and he was right!
Peter: The steel may not be so bad- I think it's your climate. I've seen photos of motorcycle frames that were, unbelievably, being restored that were almost pure rust. I could stand a stripped frame of good English steel in my backyard for a couple of years and only have to clean it up with a little steel wool. However, based on your comments I've taken to greasing all my old rifles in spite of our dry climate here in Alberta. I am curious about the green tropical paint as I have a few that did time in India that that stuff appears to have protected extremely well. Do you know anything about the composition of that stuff?
Ridolpho
Yeah, good quality lead based paint.:cheers:
Maybe some John Deere touchup paint would work but the tone wouldn't quite match!
OX52. That takes me back. Don't tell me it is still in use?Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Laidler
No......... OIL, OX52 went out during the late 60's but you still see an odd can occasionally. I undid an old Vickers CES a few months ago and foind a pint can lurking in the box. It's not there any more.......................
I use standard Castrol Wheel Bearing grease, it is used on the Enfields & for the wheel bearings on my MGBs.