No4 mk1 complete sock replacement

Well here it is finally got all the parts on her, still lacks BLO but that is next. Only had acouple issues screws for the bands won't screw in :madsmile: I wonder if I was given some stamped reproduction any comments would be appreciated. I am really not happy with the Butt stock. Talked to Brian Dick and will get a new Walnut one this weekend just can't take the miss match for such an important part. Will replace the handguards later just got a great deal on the set. Luv the fore end. Comments good or bad let me know. thanks

look what I found 238 rounds does anybody know anyhthing about it.

One things for certain, it'll more than likely be corrosive primed so get the funnel and boiling water ready:lol:

Cheers,

Simon.

Re. Band screws:

make sure that the screws are:-

1. NEW

2. Kosher No4 types.

If the screws are "pre-loved' and have been previously "staked", the end of the thread will be slightly bulged and will be VERY hard to get started in a new band. If well-staked in its previous band, and not removed properly, it probably destroyed the thread in the band on the way out. The proper way to remove them is to first CAREFULLY drill out the staked end of the thread, so that it hardly takes any effort to wind it out. The hole in the end of the screw is not just there for decoration, it acts as a pilot hole for both the staking and the drilling out for removal.

If you have SMLE ones mixed up in the set, they are not going to start well either, being a different thread form and pitch.

No 4 band screws have a 2 BA thread, so at worst, you might be able to chase a die over them to get them back to size. No4 and 5 rifles were built with "industry standard" BA, BSF/Whitworth threads. This made sub-contracting all the "fiddly bits" a lot easier.

No1 Mk111 etc. band screws have an "Enfield Special" 0.1875" x x33TPI thread (Enfield form): good luck finding a die for that.

P-14s are also full of "Enfield Specials".

In an ordnance system, having "weird" screw threads is not necessarily a bad thing. It certainly reduces the chance that some "enthusiast" will replace a missing fastener ($5) with some piece of sub-standard rubbish (2c) from the local bargain shop.

If the threads all look good I can think of two possibilities;

1. The hollow end of the screw was expanded with a punch to lock it in place the last time it was assembled. Can be difficult to re-use.

2. Wrong screw. The threads on No.4 band screws are a bit different than those on a SMLE. A no.4 (flat headed) screw will usually work on a SMLE band but a SMLE (slightly domed head) screw usually won't thread into a No.4 band.

Hope this helps.

* And Bruce types much faster than I do!

Okay thanks alot for the info. Has anyone found help from local gun shop by taking the band down to them to fit a screw in it. also all the screws and band came from same place Liberty tree. thanks. no comments on the stock:lol: must need more work:D

If she shoots as good as she looks you are in buisness.

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Originally Posted by mgarrno4

Okay thanks alot for the info. Has anyone found help from local gun shop by taking the band down to them to fit a screw in it. also all the screws and band came from same place Liberty tree. thanks. no comments on the stock:lol: must need more work:D

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Tell me what you think of this. I went through my drawer and found a 10/32 machine screw worked perfect. My bands must be after market ones. Bummer

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by HOOKED ON HISTORY

If she shoots as good as she looks you are in buisness.

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Thank you It shoots great before the redo took awhile to get the barrel to float. will take her out to the range soon and will see how the install went.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Simon

One things for certain, it'll more than likely be corrosive primed so get the funnel and boiling water ready:lol:

Cheers,

Simon.

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I wondered about that, after reading some posts on the forum. but they are free from my sister. 238 rounds 200 reloading bullets and a set of 303 dies for birthday. Is the brass any good to reload.

Is the brass any good to reload.

The metallic mercury released from the primer on ignition will corrupt the integrity of the brass and cause embrittlement. As the shampoo ad goes," It won't happen overnight, but it will happen." Regarding cracking: This ammo is getting old. That doesn't mean it won't go bang or be inaccurate. I have seen sixty year-old "fresh" .303 ammo come out of sealed cans with cracks starting in the brass around the neck. This usually indicates sub-standard annealing. In the "normal" course of ordnance cycles, ammo is turned over at MUCH shorter intervals than fifty or more years. Then again, when I was in a RAAF Air Cadets shooting team in the in the mid-70s, we got issued with some 1918 vintage Brit Mk7 that was superbly consistent and, from memory, suffered almost NO splits, as opposed to the "interesting" 1950s "KF" headstamped stuff that cracked AND displayed erratic grouping.

In military use, split necks would be considered "rare" because the stuff was normally shot away long before the crystalization process developed that far.

Yes, the cases can be reloaded if you can find a supply of RWS 6000, or equivalent, .250" dia. Berdan primers. These use a LEAD based priming mix. Removing the old ones can be done hydraulically or with an RCBS Lachmiller Berdan tool. You may only get one or two reloads per case as the mercury contamination from the initial firing of the brass will ensure that the cases WILL start cracking.

Another option is to use a collet tool to remove the Mk7 projectiles and reload them into some nice new and much-more-reloadable commercial brass with a suitable propellant. Seat 175gn or so softpoints in the mil cases for hunting ammo. If you lose a case bagging a nice swag of venison, that's a fair trade.

How is anybody going with sourcing Mk7 bullets?

Finally: FREE ammo is good ammo, even if you just recover the projectiles and sell the cases for scrap.

ISAA is Ishapore (Indian) best of luck if 1 in 5 go bang and if they do look at the bottom of the target

Not sure about ISAA indicating Indian ammo there......... It is Inspector of Small Arms Ammunition at Woolwich (as was)! Or am I wrong - not being an ammo man?

Thanks for all the help. Think I will pull some and shoot Some.

I've got lots of new, original band screws, (both SMLE/P-14 and No.4/5), if in need.

With all of the gov't/media induced hysteria in the USA this Winter, there's been a run on reloading components and projectiles as well as firearms and accessories. I doubt seriously that the projectile manufacturers will expand their product lines to include Mk.7 projectiles any time soon if at all now since they can't even produce the ones that are standard sales items now. Of course, if someone wants to pony up the cash for a 250,000 projectile order, they'll probably consider it.

Just a bit more on those band screws:

They were considered a "disposable" item in service. By this I mean that it was a requirement in maintenance instructions that the rifle be THOROUGHLY stripped for inspection. Thus, just about EVERY time it was seen by an armourer for a complete technical inspection / detailed examination, the screw in the band would be drilled out so that the gun-plumber could get the woodwork off the metal bits.

If you intend to do a lot of stripping of your rifle, I suggest the 21st Century solution: thread-locker. One of my favourites is Mr. Loctite's "290", "super wick-in". This stuff is quite "runny" compared to many of their other products and is specifically designed to "wick" into, (hence the name), threads that have already been adjusted to final position. A small drop placed on any exposed thread will promptly disappear into the thread of the assembled fastener. After about 5 to 15 minutes, depending on temperature, it will "set". Fortunately, unlike 620 or similar, you don't need a blowtorch, a big hammer and grim determination to break the seal, if required to.

It is also quite useful stuff if you have to "shake-proof" adjustment screws in electronic or other equipment.

I find it handy on scope-mount screws, trigger adjustment screws, etc.

For those who do a spot of machining, it can also be used to temporarily hold assemblies that are being drilled and reamed for tapered (or roll) pins: see AR-15 front-sight / gas block assemblies, for example. Assemble, do a precise line-up, apply the 290 and go and do something else for a while. Then drill, ream etc. and carry on.

The usual caveats regarding surface cleanliness apply. If you are really in a hurry, or your workshop is dismally cold, give the components a squirt of Loctite 7471 "Primer" before assembly. This will "treat" the CLEAN surfaces and seriously reduce the curing time, especially at low temperatures.