Restoring a No4 Mk1 - Your opinions please!

I picked up a sporter job No4 Mk1 at a pawn shop a few years ago to restore because no metal parts were touched and the bore is pristine. While at a gun show I came across a table covered with surplus rifle parts and after a little talking I came home with the four pieces shown. It was an impulsive purchase and the desire to restore this rifle led to the purchase.

Intent

I would like to restore this rifle back to its military configuration. Am I correct in assuming that since it is an FTR rifle it could have any mix of parts? I would like it to be as correct as possible while not breaking the bank.

Questions

What type of wood do these appear to be? The forestock has a "D" stamped forward of the magazine well. The buttstock has no markings but is a "Long" variation.

Should I search for different wood or strip the handguards and refinsh all to match?

Any input would be greatly appreciated as I want to do this correctly the first time!

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The fore-end looks to be beech stained dark and possibly South African manufacture.

If that wood as a set came across my work bench as an Armourer as opposed to an Enfield collector, I'd scrape off the handguards to see what colour they were underneath the crud. If they were a similar-ish colour to the butt and fore-end then all is well because an hour or so in the hot linseed bath would match them fairly closely. If not, then tip the lot into the stain tank that definately WOULD match them! Overnight in the stain tank and a few hours in the linseed bath next day and they'd be good for the next 30 years.

The forend is beech. The handguards are walnut and you should be able to pick a new set of beech up for $40.00 or so. The butt is a light walnut and could be traded for a beech butt as it looks in good condition. The for pieces could be stained to match however this does not always give the desired result.

question for peter.
what was the colour of the stain ,did you mix it up or was it a commercially produced type .
or maybe if you have the time can you describe the process .

thanks

Is finding a walnut forend in comparable condition out of the question? I may just look for the beech counterparts as I have a Savage No4 that has lighter colored wood and I prefer that over the dark wood. My plan is to clean them and rub them down with boiled linseed oil. Peter, thank you for your input. A correct-ish shooter is what I am after here. From your advice it seems that a reasonable attempt to match the wood by color and not necessarily by type was performed during FTR. The history and tradition is what I am out to preserve and expose other shooters to. I may see about a trade on the buttstock as it is longer than my other No4.

Well, you did ask, so I'll tell you! In our bigger workshops this is the stain mix. The wood always comes out a darkish colour.

Mix 5 ounces of STAIN, powdered, dark browwn (G1/HA7415) with 2.5 gallons of raw linseed oil (G1/HA13671) and continue stirring while heating to 100 degrees C.

Mix 1 ounce NAPTHATE, copper (G4/HA 12452) with 2.5 gallons of linseed oil and continue mixing while hgeating to 100 degrees C

Mix both solutions and allow to cool.

Contrary to what others might say, this ALWAYS works even on the lightest, densest beech! It WILL come out of the tank a darker colour that will match the rest!

Thanks Peter.
What kind of solvent you use to remove this linseed oil+stain+copper naphtate?

We don't want to remove it Bow! We want it to remain in/on the wood to darken it down and preserve it for ever more. On that basis I don't think there was a solvent to remove it. If it got onto your hands I assume that we'd just wash it off with soap and water of just dangle your hands into the trichloretylene vapour/degreasing tank. Oh dear o' deary me...... we didn't worry about the nicities of health and safety then!

thank you for the reply ,one of the things i like about this forum is the wealth of knowledge and the sense of humour of those who have it ..... the knowledge that is .......thanks again !

reminds me a bit of work ha!!! not sure if that's a good thing .

anyway I will be in the net hunting ingredients now.

According to 'elf and safety we should all be dead. All the stupid sh...er... stuff we did before them.


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the barreled action is nice 1949 ferzakley the spelling may not be correct, these were in beach , lighter colored stocks originally she should shoot like a champ with 180 grain bullets

I am just finishing up servicing my #4 mk1 Enfield i bought ten years ago and put it in my safe to work on one day. When i took it out of the safe the action was loose. I used Awesome all purpose cleaner from the dollar store and a rag. It removed dirt, grime and old linseed oil. I did not want to sand the stock so i used some green syntactic steel wool and finished up with #0000 steel wool. I did not have enough raw linseed oil to submerge the whole stock in it so every day for week i oiled the stock with raw linseed oil. I then checked the stock fit there was a very small amount of play at the draws. I then gave the contact points two thin coats of boiled linseed oil as well as the exterior of the stock. After that there the barrel had no play in it with no screws in the receiver. I also checked the contact points by dusting them with talcum powder and spraying the receiver with w-d 40. The factory bedding was still intact.

I am a retired prefinished hardwood floor installer. Many times i have had to color match light wood moldings to dark floors. To make a dark stain that matches your hand guards use Rit dark brown dry die mixed with isopropyl alcohol. Use Rit scarlet tint the brown. Play around with scrap wood you will be able to do a good color match.