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Hi everyone, quick question. I'm trying to buy a replacement flash hider (the one on a carbine I'm working on has had its bayonet lug removed...). Numrich has two types in stock; one with the interior diameter of 0.590 inch, the other 0.670. Which one will fit the original Jungle carbine barrel? Many thanks for any input... Hopefully I'll be able to finish this refurb, that's the only remaining glitch on this old carbine.
Lou
Can you not measure your own carbine Lou?
My three No.5s all have an exterior diameter, to fit the MRD of the correct bayonet, of 22.6mm. (Sorry, where I come from we use metric!)
I don't remember where I read it, but someone said the larger ID ones are for the cut down No.4's ( like the Gibbs/Navy Arms repro ones).
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---------- Post added at 09:18 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:15 AM ----------
Edit; It could be boll**ks as well, but it made sense to me.
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to fit the MRD of the correct bayonet
I think he's talking about barrel outside diameter.
You may not be pleased with the finish on the reproductions. One of my No 5s has a repro and the finish makes it stand out like a sore thumb. Having seen some of your other work I think you can probably correct this. If so i would appreciate your posting of your method as I have not had any luck finding an original replacement.
Just make up a suitable block of sort-of-look-a-like-dimensionally steel, undercut the mating surface and mig/tig it to the original flash eliminator. Then hand file to fit the bayonet. Tentimes as cheap and ten times as good.
I think that this very subject has been covered here before. I did it to a couple of ZF Sterling SMG's
Thanks guys, much appreciated.
Peter, thanks for the idea - never occured to me to just replace the lug and file it to shape! And having other Jungles to use as model, I likely will undertake that project. My Mig welding skills are not up to par (yet) but I do have a Tig artist living nearby, he may find it interesting to have that little welding job, compared to his usual more mudane endeavor. Stay tuned :)
Lou
Having put back the bayonet lug on a P14, may I recommend that you consider the use of a new-fangled device known as the milling machine? Only been around for a couple of hundred years, I know, but one doesn't have to do the total Khyber Pass thing. So you haven't got a milling machine? Neither have I. But I do have a milling slide for my lathe. It saves whole weekends of filing!
This is one of those situations where I (once again) recommend that anyone considering such activities should get in touch with (join?) a model engineering club. People who can build live steam engines from lumps of steel, copper and brass can handle just about anything that forum members are likely to need, and you will be amazed at the machinery that some MEs have acquired. One of the best examples of model engineering I can remember was at the Model Engineeering exhibition in Earls Court, about half a century ago - a 25-pounder field gun, scaled down to shoot 45 revolver ammo. Gun licensing was simpler in those days!
So mill the bayonet lug profile and get it MIGed/TIGed onto the flash hider body. You will need to make a simple jig to hold the two pieces in position for welding - even the best welder only has two hands. And you will probably still have some filing to do afterwards, to make the welding fillet as near to invisible as you can. Plus judicious wiping over with a bluing fluid to dull the shiny surfaces.
Of course, if you value your time, you will be better off buying a replacement. But that's no fun!
Talking of which, several years ago I saw the most fantastically modelled submarine 3" deck gun, about 12" long and....., well, words fail me. IT even had a working recoil and recuperation system. To cap it all off, it was mounted on a scaled down section of submarine decking. Quite staggering....
Yes....., these modellers could certainly help with your flash eliminator. I'm not even sure that you'd need weld either because the Sterling SMG bayonet standard was simply brazed in place and as I seem to recollect, the round section piece that the pommell slides and locks onto is a bog standard off the shelf (3/8"?) round bar section with a chamfer along one side and a radial recess at the rear!
Patrick have you anymore info regarding the 25 pounder ? I,ve been looking at or thinking of "attempting" to build a 25 pounder field gun for some time, and in .45 acpQuote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Chadwick
There is a full size live firer on Milweb, but the wife seemed a bit strange when I mentioned it, as daft as it sounds I,m sure my local force would want it locked in a secure cabinet...
I can get plenty of viewing of the modern version the "105mm Light Gun" but always thought the 25 pounder was the way to go, searched High and low on the web but cant find any model drawings or plans.
My friend made a 25 pounder scale model and I remember him drilling the zillions of holes in which he inserted and soft soldered pin heads which replicated the zillions of rivets in the trail and shield. The sticking block was the scale tyres to suit the scale of the gun/trail. Make sure that you source the tyres before you embark on the project!
Peter that's a good point regarding the tyres, there is a good range for the modeller, want something that would give the correct scale to .45 case, had thought of a 12 gauge also.
Regarding rivets its all part of the detail, and looking at this scratch built Bren carrier last night the detail speaks for itself....
Scratch Built 1/6 Bren Gun Carrier. - YouTube