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I just purchased my first Enfield No.4 Mk I and I'm attempting to remove the stock bolt from the firearm. Unfortunately the bolt is extremely stuck with rust and the bolt groove is horribly worn. I've tried several different methods short of the destructive ones (which I won't attempt). I've also taken it to three different gunsmith's none of which could do anything. Does anyone have an idea or suggestion as to how to remove the bolt?
Thanks,
VFSniper
VFSniper, If you're talking about the bolt that holds the butt stock to the butt socket, sometimes you just have to throw the towel in if the bolt's slot is too destroyed.
I use a long screwdriver with a square shank. The screwdriver's blade just fits a good screw head slot. Two methods, first if you can get the screwdriver to bite is to tighten a couple of degrees and then loosen. Failing that you'll need a helping hand to keep the screwdriver seated (place muzzle on a piece of wood on the floor). Use channel lock pliers on the handle or a wrench if you've a square shank and try to remove. Good luck.
Make sure there isn't a leather washer over the screw head.
Brad
Thanks, bradtx I have tried all of the above. I even tried a screwdriver head attached to a t-handle breaker bar with no luck.
VFSniper, If you haven't loosened that screw yet you might try WD40 or something like that on the threads and give it time to work then try an impact screwdriver, sometimes shock when trying to loosen something works better than a steady force, be sure the blade fits the slot. Hope this is helpful.
Howard
Thanks I've tried PBLube/WD40 or something along those lines and let it sit for well over a day. I have never seen an impact driver long enough to get down to where the bolt is, do you know where I could get one?
VFSniper
I have a 3/8 drive impact driver and with a long extension and a blade that will fit a 3/8 socket, I had to grind a blade to fit the slot, it should break it loose. You may want to heat the threads carefully to help loosen the rust.
Howard
the impact driver i refer to is he one that is hit with a hammer
Have you tried a drag link socket like below.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/imported/deleted.gif
https://www.milsurps.com/images/imported/deleted.gif
Use a big screwdriver with a square shank and an big adjustable wrench.
As you're turning bear down on the screw driver...and use the right width
bit.
If the forend is already off, you can sometimes free the stock bolt by warming the immediate area with a micro butane torch or similar. This can help crack any corrosion thats locking the bolt. Obviously you need to keep the heating very localised to avoid affecting the rest of the receiver.
A square shank screwdriver + spanner gives a more positive turn than a socket set.
Try kroil or PB Blaster on the threads. Allow to soak for at least one full day. Then try the impact driver.
I have one the same way except the threads are loose in the butt socket and the bolt is froze/rusted to the wood. I have tried an impact driver and soaking in light oil. I have not given up yet, but breaking it free without messing up the stock is going to be a job. It is like the wood has swelled around the head of the bolt. Locked it up tight!
Very helpful to have it in a padded vise...cushioned jaws holding the buttstock.
I had a tough time getting my stock off too, but I tapped it around gently a bit after letting some lube sit on top of the screw for a few minutes. use a soft piece of wood covered in a rag in direct contact so you don't damage your stock and it might loosen it a bit more in order to get that screw to release.
I have removed one or two butts from rifles that were pretty rusty. We had a tool called a BRACE, Armourers, stock and a long big steel bit called a BIT, Armourers stock bolt. These are the proper tools and I've never encoultered a stock bolt that didn't budge with these, even after they'd been used in the saltwater mangrove swamps for months on end.
Go at it with a bit of brute force and ignorance.
And here's a lesson for you all. For gods sake, liberally coat the stock bolt and the thread with lashings of axle grease (we use GREASE, XG-279). ALWAYS protect the metalwork under woodwork with grease