Does anyone have any idea what they used on the type 99 arisakas in ww2 japan on the stocks? I am thinking blo, but not sure and want to restore a stock that was redone before i got it for a restoration project,thanx all.
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Does anyone have any idea what they used on the type 99 arisakas in ww2 japan on the stocks? I am thinking blo, but not sure and want to restore a stock that was redone before i got it for a restoration project,thanx all.
The finish on Japanese rifles is called "Urushi" Google it,,,it's nasty stuff it's made from poison sumac or ivy,,,one of the poisons..:) You can still get it but it's expensive and a PITA to work with so I've read.
Yes, I'd use BLO or RLO...
The Japanese used urushi on gunstocks, a very tough finish:
urushi
and
http://www.urushi-kobo.com/urushi.html
It has many uses but is hard to find, do a Google search.
The link posted by gew8805 is the most informative there is. Urushi is not as tough as old boots, it is tougher! It laughs off most solvents.
You can either go for real urushi, if you get get it, or for linseed oil. Whichever you select, a stock that was already redone but looks like it needs redoing (i.e. it was probably not done properly in the first place) is likely to have a mix of heaven-knows-what and - since real urushi is so hard to remove - patches of the original finish in the corners. So you will have to strip off everything to get a totally clean surface for a new finish. And unless you have the patience of a old-time Japanese craftsman or a restorer of old paintings, go for linseed oil.Quote:
Originally Posted by mil-surp60
Patrick, I neglected to point out that there is one problem with using urushi and it is not mentioned in the articles I posted, that is many, if not most people have varying degrees of allergic reactions to it. See:
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It was first noticed at the end of the Second World War among soldiers who were refinishing their war prize rifles while still in service and then among veterans. The reaction is the same as and, often, more severe than that of poison ivy. It is a remarkably good finish and extremely tough and durable. As WarPig1976 points out, linseed oil can be used but while linseed oil is often used as a substitute (even by the Japanese in the last days of WW2) it in no way matches the look or durability of urushi. Good luck matching the original finish mil-surp 60, you may be calling for :help:
No they actually did a good job , but just does not look original , ill post a few pics when the stock arrives i just bought it yesterday , i am thinking blo as well or danish oil.They have it polyed it looks to me too shiny for a milsurp.i want just oil finish no poly on it ill strip it first then rub her with oil thanx guys ill get some pics up soon as it arrives.Then maybe someone can give me a better idea, i do want to get as close as i can back to original.thanx guys.:thup:
It's a lacquer finish that's closely related to poison ivy...many GIs discovered this the hard way after the war when they picked up an Arisaka at their embarkation port as a war trophy, decided to kill time on the troopship by sanding and linseeding it, and had varying reactions related to their personal allergy to poison ivy. (I.e. anything ranging from itching to sick bay.)Quote:
Originally Posted by WarPig1976
Here's some basic info on it: Toxicodendron vernicifluum - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Must have been the 7th level of hell getting that in your throat!! You just know it was very potent when fresh in 45'
Well i sure wont be useing that then lol , ill use blo or danish oil i guess , thanx guys i had no clue what they originaly used on them,what i can get will have to work i guess , i am very good with wood so i may shock you guys lol, ill post pics when it is all done,thanx for all the help guys.
BLO or Danish oil will not give you that semi-varnish look of urushi. Try Truoil or Linspeed. Do a sample finish on a piece of wood first.
Another finish you may want to check out is Minwax Tung oil finish. It is not pure tung oil but is thicker and has driers added. three or four coats gives a nice film, quite similar to true oil ( true-oil is linseed oil based, the min-wax is tung oil based) . I finished several military stocks with it and prefer it to true-oil and pure tung oil. After finishing a table and chairs with 6 million coats of pure tung oil , that stuff was so thin it seemed like that many coats were needed to build up a decent finish, I swore off of pure tung oil....with drying time it took months to finish the table and all six chairs. The min-wax tung oil finish is much quicker has a nice finish to it. I applied the coats with a small foam brush. Give it a look-see.
Gary
I'm apparently not allergic to poison Ivy. Never gotten it in my life and if my wife is within 10 feet of it she breaks out. I think I've given it to her from her washing my hunting clothes. I don't rub it on me and steer clear of it when I see it but I have been in it with no reaction.
The other thing I seem to recall is that many Arisaka stocks were treated with Potassium Permanganate as a "preservative" before final oiling, lacquering, etc.
Hence the odd "red-ish" tinge to stocks that have not been bashed around in the jungle for months or years.
Any other info?