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Hello Everyone, I'm new to this site and I have some questions regarding my Garand. I was given an M1 Garand, alleged Tanker model. The op rod was broken and then allegedly repaired by a gunsmith, however it never worked, so I replaced the op rod with one from Fulton Armory, along ,with alot of other parts. Since reassembling and lubricating, the rifle will not eject the casing, anyone have any suggestions? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance....Clint:runaway:
Unfortunately many Tankers have functioning issues. It takes a very good smith to convert a Garand to a Tanker. I have one that works very well and they are very fun to shoot. The largest issue is that the op rod has to be bent in the exactly correct place and angle in order to work.
Here are some pics of mine.
Attachment 47313Attachment 47314
Mine looks like yours with the exception, mine does not have the flash hide, however everything else looks the same.
You need to determine and say exactly what it's doing or not doing.
Is it extracting but not ejecting ? If it is extracting , is the case getting hung up ? Is the bolt squeeky clean and reassembled properly ? Extractor and ejector moving freely ? Bolt not short stroking ? Thinking too long op rod spring . Could be not enough gas , too . Worn piston or cylinder , converted bbl with wrong sized port , port not aligned with cylinder window , gas cylinder mounting mis-machined . You've done a tilt test , right ? Checked for binding / rubbing ? Reassembled completely without op rod spring to check for binding caused by the latched triggerguard pressure ? ( just had one of these , had to remove wood on the stock under op-rod handle ) .
Chris
I'm sorry for the confusion. I did disassemble the rifle, I did a tilt test, nothing seems to be binding, everything moving freely. I checked the gas port, free of any debris. I checked op rod without op rod spring, no binding there, moved freely. Last time I fired the rifle, the op rod only moved approximately an inch, and stopped, I thought maybe it was a bent case or something, so I completely checked the rest of my ammo, all seemed good, no dings or dents, so I reloaded again, and again the op rod only moved approximately an inch and stopped, the empty case did not come out. Thanks for all of your imput and assistance......Clint:runaway:
Try this:
Remove the "gas cylinder lock screw" a.k.a. plug.
Use a piece of dowel rod, brass rod, or something that cannot possibly make a mark in the cylinder and PUSH the rod back by hand.***
If it travels noticeably further than the inch previously quoted, then the explanation must surely be that the gas is just not providing enough push!
***I just tried this on my own Garand. If you clamp the dowel rod in a bench vice (with enough sticking out, of course!) you can easily push the rifle onto the dowel rod and thus push the op rod so far back that it cocks the action.
IF YOU CAN DO THIS THE EXPLANATION IS INSUFFICIENT GAS !
I.e. rod OR cylinder OR both have so much wear that there is excessive gas leakage
AND/OR the gas port is partially obstructed
AND/OR the gas is leaking past the valve in the lock screw - because of dirt in the valve seating, for instance.
As you seem to have already checked the rest - check this !!!
Maybe your lock screw looks like this:
Attachment 47317
Bought online - pic did not show hole - I got my money back!
Remember , the bbl was / is cut down . The original gas port is gone . Be sure the port hole is the proper diam.
The .308 ports are bigger than 30-06 ports , but I don't have the specs on tanker ports . Being closer to the chamber , they should be smaller than normal , but your's may be too small .
Chris
What ammo are you using? Definitely sounds like insufficient gas...
The gas port is small, the small end of a round wooden toothpick fits. Just me, but I'm thinking the gas cylinder needs replaced, I've practically replaced everything else. Oh, the is no hole on the plug, just fyi!
The way to find out what size your gas port is would be with a numbered drill bit...that way we have a start point. But is your ammo factory? And if so what?
I'm not ruling out an ammo problem either. The ammo I have was given to me, but has 7.62 R1 M1 A80 stamped on the head of the case.
OK, sounds like ball of some kind, but I know that the IVI ball I had was old headstamp and had little power to cycle my M1 compared to new Rem-UMC ball. Maybe try a box of something new, or just different. The gas port measurement is still a big question though. Toothpicks vary...
I will get a size on the gas port as soon as I can, thanks all......
Keep us info'ed on this one. We love to have an outcome...
The ammo I have has 7.62 R1 M1 A80 stamped on the head of case.
Yes, you said that. I don't know what country it comes from or what it's history is...if it's been through lots of storage, it can be a bit degraded and not as powerful and reliable as it should be.
Ok all, I contacted the previous owner whom told me that the rifle functioned properly with the ammo I listed earlier, then the op rod broke. Since I've owned the gun, I've replaced everything except the trigger group, barrel, and stock. I disassemble the rifle again today and checked the gas port, a 1/16th drill bit fit through the hole. I did find a couple of spots that looked like the op rod was rubbing, so I greased those, and I will try shoot the rifle again to see if it operates correctly. Thanks all and have a safe and Happy Thanksgiving.........Clint
1/16th is a lot I think. But that should be big ENOUGH. Op rod...broke? Interesting. Maybe too much gas and now the op rod's out of whack after repair?
I've replaced the op rod, and the spring, from Fulton Armory.
OK...after turkey day, let er rip. We're dying to know...I wonder though if an adjustable gas cylinder lock screw is in order?
Ok, all, I bought some new ammo, it is of German Manufacture, DAG94J0364,is stamped on the head of the case, it did fire, but the bolt failed to open on at least half of the eight rounds, and short stroked on the other half. Any suggestions now, should I replace the gas cylinder???
It's obviously not getting enough gas...the spring you have is short, not full length? I know you got a new one. It well may be suffering blow by...
The spring the I bought from Fulton Armory is supposed to be one for a Tanker model.
OK then, It must be the gas piston head is too small...or the cylinder is too worn... I'm hoping someone else will appear and help, but what I had always heard about the tanker builds was they either worked or they didn't. Some were built from salvaged and possibly less than stellar ex military parts. Sometimes they'd re-finish them and assemble parts that weren't even serviceable...a bit hard to tell without the rifle in my hand... Did you try what Patrick suggested in post 6?