Tools

i finally have my first carbine and of course now i have the bug for another one. i was thinking it might be nice to acquire a few tools, especially an ME and TE gauge and possibly since i'll be swapping bolts around for an M2 coversion, head space gauges. any recommendations as to which are most useful and where to buy?
thanks.

Bolt tool is a must have IMO.

CH-P777

Charlie gave you good advice. The most important is the bolt tool about $45. I'd get a spare pawl also, about $15. As you can see in the picture, easy to break the split end. Another item not very costly at $10 but a time saver is the trigger spring tool. I'd also make a second trigger pin. But only the width of the trigger. Aluminum rod, whatever. That way you can assemble it outside the housing. Saving finger tips and cuticles. Maybe a few choice words too. Drop it in and push the full length pin into place.
The muzzle gauge, maybe. A lot are counter bored and will swallow it anyway. There are other ways to check it, an M2 round for one.
Head space gauges are pretty expensive. I think around $50 each now. Go, no go. Maybe, but not for only one carbine.



https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo..._zps48d0-1.jpghttps://www.milsurps.com/images/impo..._zpsd74e-1.jpg

You don't need a NOGO gage for headspace unless you are installing a NEW barrel.

I'd add to your list a "special" screwdriver (bit) hollow ground for the screw fastening the barrel band. While the screw was originally designed to accept a 30 carbine case rim in its slot, and it's sorta fun "reenacting", using a modern tool is much easier for routine disassembly/reassembly

HTH

thanks guys for all the great info. i think i'll start with the bolt and trigger assembly tools.

I still haven't bought a trigger spring tool.
I pull the guts out of a bic pen.

M2 conversion.......... I'd be grabbing ammo as often as possible.
Have fun, be safe.

Cheers,
Charlie-Painter777

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JimF4M1s

I'd also make a second trigger pin. But only the width of the trigger

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This is a huge help. I believe I cut down a number of finish nails and lightly ground the edges smooth.
Being able to put the trigger, sear and spring together outside of the Trigger Housing could save a marriage.
Makes setting the Hammer so much easier.

"The M1 Carbine Owner's Guide" by Larry Ruth and Scott Duff has some useful 'How To' sections.

CH-P777

The field HS gauge is the one you want. If it closes on that you have a problem. Go to see if there is enough room. I use a 30-06 case for the trigger spring. Push it in, slide the whole thing into the housing hole catch it with a small tool and drag it out. You might want to have the gas nut wrench too and a spare new plug. These are cheap and if you need one not much else works.

charlie, i've been trying to find reasonably priced 30 carbine without much luck. i bid on this lot but missed it by a mile. it went for $1200! that's some expensive ammo if you're going to shoot it. is this stuff now a collector's item?
i have the first two "War Baby's" and ruth's owner's guide, that's a lot of info to digest.
frank
LOT #1779 - 13WA-46 LOT OF AMMO

From the Auction site:
2 cans of U.S. .30 cal. ball ammo in 8 round clips and 2 cans of 600 rounds U.S. .30 carbine in 10 round clip bandoleers. A bonanza lot for the M1 carbine and Garand shooters.

2 of those cans are for feeding a Garand.
Unopened=big $$.

I've shot most all the commercial brands. Then started reloading my own. I have a lot more peace of mind shooting my own. Recall some Magtech that were screaming for a carbine load.

Cheers,
Charlie-Painter777

Those sealed 600 round cans go for around $400+ each. I'm not sure on the 30-06 rounds. I would think $1200 for the lot was reasonable.

Staked piston nuts taken out wrong can bugger up the threads. That is why I don't recommend the piston wrench. If stuck you can usually soak it or fire it a few times and it will break loose. I use the trigger spring tool because it is at a 90 degree bend and easy to hold, made of metal and I keep it with my bolt tool. When I bought them they were $4. As mentioned, the head space gauges if you have multiple carbines. If someone does, then they probably will wind up changing a barrel somewhere down the road. That was why I mentioned Go and No Go. And for that matter, if you are going to change a barrel, you will need the front sight tools, and a receiver wrench as well. Everyone should have a good screwdriver set. Proper fit in the slot keeps you from twisting it. I think Cabela's sells a good set. And there are other tools, just expensive and seldom used.

Like anything, you can go overboard for what you will actually use.

i figured i could keep the 30 carbine and sell the rest for what i paid for it. don't forget the buyer's premium is 17% - 19% which makes this at least $1400 + shipping and handling. surely no one is actually shooting this stuff. you can buy aguilla for 40 cents/rnd.
frank

I seldom have problems assembling the sear in the trigger, but it happens occasionally. I don't use the trigger spring tool anymore either. After the trigger is in place, I start the pin, but not enough to block the sear from dropping in place. Drop in the sear spring and then drop in the sear. I then use the hammer to engage the end of the sear (just like it normally does in operation) and push the sear back into place enough so the trigger/sear pin will go through. I keep a finger over the top of the sear because it will pop out if you don't. Using the hammer to set the sear is essentially the same thing as inserting the hammer and pushing the hammer pin through. The sear has to be engaged by the hammer so the hammer pin will go in. Just in my usage I do it for the trigger/sear pin too.