New to Japanese Rifles

I just purchased my first two japanese rifles after having thought about it way too long. The first is below. I make it to be a Nagoya Arsenal 4th series.The bore is chrome lined and it appears to be in good shape, other than the cut down stock. I have noted that a few folks have repaired the stocks and would like some info on how that is being done. Thanks, DocAitch
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...2/pyy2th-1.jpghttps://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...2/4zb8th-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...2/g13rth-1.jpghttps://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...2/zjlath-1.jpg

IMO.... Much depends on what you paid and if it is matching. But if all else is good and you did not pay very much I see a new stock in your future if you want it done right.

Well it is possible to repair that stock in a similar fashion as you would repair a duffle cut rifle but without the matching bayonet lug it will never be a matching rifle and would be worth what one of those would be.:( It is still a cool rifle just hope you didn't pay too much for it.

Doc. Yes there have been several posts on this. Midmichigun has done some nice spliced forearms and has posted pictures. See Type 99 Saved From Bubba- Tokyo Juki Kogyo Also check out "Low Buck Desporterized type 99 rifles" and "Type 99 rifle restored". True-- they will never be as valued as an unmessed with rifle but will fill a hole in your collection and are quite useable and shootable. If you later find a good stock or a better rifle you can always use or sell off the old parts.
Salt Flat

LOL! Thank you Salt!! Just happened to log on for some relaxation. And happened on this post!

I will be posting my latest escapades shortly on a duffel cut repair... again! I was bothering the mill over the weekend, and managed to burn out the channel and begin shaping. But lets not jump the OP's question!!

Doc,
Well, I take pleasure in repairing these rifles. As I look towards future $$ as the rifles dry up, and also to conserve them for future shooting and collecting. What I am saying is that you may spend more to restore, than what it is currently worth. But it is worthy to restore one.

What you will need to do, is trim back the lower stock further into the barrel band. This will "hide" the cut/ repair... and is the exact location for most duffel cuts that I have experienced.

I use a mill/ drill and a 1/2 round router bit to create a barrel channel. It is darn close! I have noted that the barrels themselves are tapered so beware. I don't think it matters if there is more gap in the metal to wood on the sight end, but I have been repairing "late war/ last ditch" where the fit and finish don't always look great.

If you have acces to a router table, this is the next best way aside from the mill. I start with a 2x2x XX long chunk of walnut, or other suitable wood. You can find this stuff at Wood Crafters. I have used cherry before and Padauk. What ever you choose, go with a dried wood that is stable. No need to make a repair and have it crack off!!

After you have cut to length and secured it to the barrel it will be a long slow process shaping the section down. I typicaly use my mill to get the dimensions close, but have used wood planers before. When I am closer I go to rasps and bastard files.

The obvious solution is to simply buy a "new" used stock. These can go for good money (as there are many bubba'd rifles to restore). But it is up to you on whether you like tools and the process of restoration/ repair.

Whatch my threads and if time permits tonight, I will update my Arisaka saga on the next repair I am doing! If you have any other questions... feel free to PM me!

The big thing that I look for, is a wood that has a similar grain to what I am repairing, so the new sections isn't as obvious, in that regard.

The finish is going to be a problem. To my knowledge, duplicating the Urushi finish hasn't been done. Although many people like the linseed and tung oil finishes. Since the Urushi finish can cause allergies, and is hard to find in the US, I would recommend the tung oil route!

Thanks midmichigun, I did find a lower stock from Liberty Tree Collecters that cost as much as the rifle. No upper guard though, so I may have to try a splice on the upper hand guard.
Some of the info I needed was in your post, and I will be checking out your other threads.
The rifle is in good condition and just begs for restoration and shooting.
DocAitch

Doc,
Yep. Of what I saw on your pics, this rifle is an easy restoration. Just needs some "love". I have eyed the Liberty Tree parts.... and yes, the prices can discourage. But remember that ebay is also hit and miss...

As to the upper handguard. If you attempt to restore that, I would encourage an actual physical splice. Of what I have seen of the duffel cuts, they can rattle a little from wood shrinkage and the blade width used to cut it down. I would be happier with a more solid feeling wood part to grip. If you go with splicing the upper, I would suggest that you do it at the barrel band. Also, pin/ dovetail or put in a cross wise splice (forgetting the technical term) that crosses the parting lines. I have seen it done on military repairs.

Glues to use: I do like some of the urethanes. However, they tend to foam. This is NOT what you want. Any work like this, I now resort to using a 2pt epoxy. Prefer the longest hardening version. As I repair the rifles, I will let them harden up over several days before handling. A long time hardening epoxy would give a period, in which the epoxy can soak into the wood fibers. Obviously insure that the wood is clean and dry (free of oils).

midmichigun,
Thanks for the hints.
I had thought to splice the upper hand guard, and will go that way. I have the Liberty Tree stock in hand now.
I am a wood carver, so will probably hand carve a piece of wood when I find it. I have been successful with duplicating stuff like chair arms and molding, so I feel confident that I can match up the wood.
I appreciate the tip on the glue. I am not a fan of urethane after having had to sand the brown stain off my hands with 150 grit paper ( I am a practicing physician and the patients wouldn't understand the brown stains on my hands).
It may be a while before I get my sh** together and tackle this job, but it seems doable.
The rifle is in great shape and the pieces that I have are matching, and I think it will be a great shooter.
I did look over your previous threads, and I am impressed by your skill and devotion to rescuing these neglected/abused rifles.
Thanks again
DocAitch

just did one myself , see type 99 saved from bubba thread, you deff need a new stock if you are not a very good wood worker , but they are pricey nowadays , suggestion , sell that cut down stock on ebay like i did ,and use that money to buy another one off of ebay , they have a lot go up for auction .And i just sold one cut down exact same way and purchased another stock for it , now i have a very nice fully restored kokura early model with intact mum bought from cabelas for 150.00 cut down like that 1 is, Worth way more than 150 now lol ,only thing ,stock cost me an arm and a leg but came with original monopod and all the parts needed to finish rifle, total cost of build,right around 350.00, so it will be a tad pricey but well worth the effort if you just be patient as you look for the parts, ebay man, has any type 99 part you will ever need just have to keep looking. btw mdmich there could make you a stock i bet the man has talent with wood ,he does great work :thup:

I have a type 99 an never fired it. I have been looking for ammo to try her out but 7.7 is tough to find. I have a 99 with the mum intact that was brought home on a hospital ship wrapped in bandages. It is a long barrel complete with aircraft sights. I need the metal fold up rest, an a good correct sling for her to complete it out. I would love to try it out, but where to find 7.7 jap ammo?.....sonny

Hornaday makes it but it isn't cheap. $27 a box when you can find it. Graf and Son's sells it when they can and they often have it made by another company that uses Privi Partisan brass. I got some 7.35 carcano off of them.

Problem is, now isn't a good time to buy any ammo, especially the odd stuff. They've been concentrating on the major calibers and unable to keep up so the more obscure stuff just isn't being made right now. Cabela's in Hamburg sells it but hasn't had any on its shelf for quite a while.

Sonny,
Definitely break yours out into a separate thread! We always like looking at new specimens...

Around here 7.7 is very hard to find. Best thing is to keep an eye on online sources.

As to the monopod (rest) your option is a repop or original. Originals bring good $$. Check places like Sarco for repops... or ebay/ gunbroker for the real thing. Of course, it won't be cheap.

Same thing with the sling. I have been making do... with repops, since I think that "soft goods" that are 70+ years old don't belong on a range toy. Due to the somewhat scarce and fragile nature (and historical significance) putting on original slings (IMHO) isn't a good idea. Famous last words are... "gee, I broke that nice original sling, guess I better buy another original to take hunting.... but they are somewhat hard to find nowadays...".... Just my 2 cents worth.

If you go with repop slings, World War Supply... IMA.... and a bunch of other suppliers have them listed.

I reload for Jap using resourced 30.06 cases, cheapest and most reliable way to shot 7.7 to my hearts content. AFTER you put the money out on loading equipment of course.....

yep, ammo is tough to get an 7.7 jap is tougher yet. I am dying to try this sucker out, so I guess I have to by commercial stuff....thanks....for reply.....sonny