m1917 bolt stuck after firing a 30-06

hello,

Today a Fired for the first time my m1917 after a gunsmidt told me it was safe to fire. At first the round did not enter very well in the chamber, after opening the bolt and closing it again the round enterd the chamber. I pulled the trigger, the gun fired and I cheked the target to see if the round had left the gun, with it did. Now I wanted to open the bolt and I cant turn it al the way up. After closing it a few times it turned all the way up but the round stayed in the chamber as I pulled the bolt backwards. I pushed the bolt back to the closed possition with using force but now its again not turing enough to pull it back. What can I do, What would the problem be?

The received is stamped m1917 and the bolt for me is the correct one...

thx a lot for any help.

joachim

I would continue to try to open the bolt like before. If the spent case remains in the chamber after getting the bolt open, remove the bolt and tap out the case with a rod and a wood or rubber mallet. Then run, don't walk, back to the gunsmith and have the chamber cast. Remember that a lot of these rifles were modified to shoot other cartridges after being surplussed due in part to the robustness of the M1917/P14.

Stuart

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by joachimvdr

hello,

Today a Fired for the first time my m1917 after a gunsmidt told me it was safe to fire. At first the round did not enter very well in the chamber, after opening the bolt and closing it again the round enterd the chamber. I pulled the trigger, the gun fired and I cheked the target to see if the round had left the gun, with it did. Now I wanted to open the bolt and I cant turn it al the way up. After closing it a few times it turned all the way up but the round stayed in the chamber as I pulled the bolt backwards. I pushed the bolt back to the closed possition with using force but now its again not turing enough to pull it back. What can I do, What would the problem be?

The received is stamped m1917 and the bolt for me is the correct one...

thx a lot for any help.

joachim

---

First off, the 1917 is a control feed Mauser style bolt. You have to put the round in the mag well & then the bolt will pick it up & lock onto it & feed it into the chamber. After you fire it the bolt is still locked onto the MT brass & it will pull it out & eject it. If you just push the round in the chamber the bolt can really lock onto it. That`s why you are having trouble closing the bolt. If you have a push feed bolt, which a lot of non Mauser style bolt guns have, you can just push the round in & the bolt will close on it.

use a steel 30 cal cleaning rod, and drop it down the muzzle, knock the case out.
more info is needed.
factory or hand load.
did this gunsmith check headspace?
did this gunsmith check the cal,?
did this gunsmith check the bolt face for problems?
what bolt is in the rifle, markings, extractor ect..
is this rifle still in its original trim??

hello,

thx for the advises, I'll take some pictures tonight after I got the case out. The gunsmith took it in his workspace that is off limits to the public so I'll ask him just what he inspected.

thx a lot,

joachim

Probably better yet, take it to him as it is. A stuck cartridge doesn't necessarily mean bad headspace, there are several possibilities.

hello,

got the case out, to me the chamber is pikket and when fired it took form in all these small holes... what to do looking for a new barrel or polisch the chamber?

thx,

joachim

I think the bulk of the forum will say perhaps a new barrel as if it is that pitted the case wont eject you may have to remove to much stuff and end up with a large chamber, I had it happen to me with a 303 rifle I brought first round I fired jammed in the chamber solid end result new barrel.

Best any weapon you buy have it checked by another gunsmith other than the one your buying it off, I do that even with new rifles.

Agreed with Cinders, if the chamber is pitted, the barrel is hooped. If it as in the armory, and went through an inspection to be found pitted or rusted, it would be a death knell for the barrel. It would be scrapped I think...

ok thx for the advise.

grts,

joachim

Is the chamber squeeky clean? If not, try a vigorouse srubbing with an oversize bronze brush attached to a drill. Some rifles that had a lot of blanks fired in them developed some hard crud that could only be removed with a soaking of hot soapy water and scrubing. It's a long shot. but maybe it might help the chamber area.
john

criterian barrels good stuff. iv installed a few

ok thx, i'll try that

I don't know what your importation laws are like, but Numrich / Gun Parts occasionally sells newly made replacement M-17 barrels.

I recall that, if you want to spend a "bit" more, Krieger / Criterion, also in the US, were doing a VERY nice M-17 barrel, in .30-06 and possibly 7.62 NATO.

As per previous comments, I would be finding a new gunsmith as well!!

Krieger and Criterian...same company.
my experiance with Krieger barrels.. not so good.. they dont follow what the customer askes for, and when called back to fix the issue,, its to bad so sad,,
after having a customer spend extra money on a milspec barrel, and payed extra to have it the right lenth, ect,,, they sent it...6 inches longer, as well, and not chambered at all, even though the customer paid them to do so.
to the tune of 250.00 more.
when the customer contacted them to have them refund that money or do the job right...they told him to kick rocks...
so now, i wont be recommending them as a supplier for any barrels.
Customer service is king, the im cool and your not additude, not so much.
i did the extra work on the barrel for the customer, and did it at no cost to him,
why in the world would you chamber a 1917 in 7.62x51???? you asking for feeding problems, if you in Europe, i would see if Wather Lothmar can make a milspec barrel, threaded, short chambered, and cut for the sight key.. in 30-06..

---------- Post added at 09:46 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:39 AM ----------

couple years ago, i built 10 , 1903A3s for some collectors in Spain,
i guess they have a law like mexico of no military cals, so, i built.. 35Whelen, 30 gibbs, 338-06 , 25-06. barrels were supplied by them, and came from E.R. shaw,
and were shipped to me,
weapons were built, test fired and shipped via importer to them, it wasnt that hard, and took less then 2 weeks for the rifles to arrive over seas, proofed by a gunsmith in Spain,
i say this, as your chamber may have been changed do to this restrictions in some countries...before you change the barrel, look at the brass case..is it still the right specs?? or has it changed???

It looks like the same round, Importing in belgium is really hard and very costly, I'm gonna try with a flex hon to clean up the chamber, we'll see

thx a lot,

joachim

If by flex hon do you mean to use a hone to smooth out the chamber? I remember reading wher people with borderline chambers (they have been mosin nagants) used a cartridge case with lapping or polishing compound smeared on it and then spun it in the chamber to smooth it up. It's been a long time since i read the article.
john

sounds like a brake cylinder hone??? proceed with care:eek:

So...what ever happened with this one?

hi, I was bussy, I honed it with a flex hone made for honing the 30-06 chamber and now ot takes the round as it shoold be, My tension spring is a bit weak, I need to guide the bolt a bit. I havent been on the range yet with it, I will fire the first couple rounds with my head behind it...

joachim

http://www.brushresearch.com/brushes.php?c2=183

Well I certainly would not be putting my head in front of it !! :madsmile:

Let us know how this works out. You may have swelling of the cartridge now. Maybe even rupturing...

I will keep you up to date, may be a few weeks before I have anouther change to go to the range...

grts,

joachim

Just had the same problem in 303. Thanks for the post and the replies. I will disassemble my new restored and find a better donor/sporter.
Edit/update My saftey was coming on after I fired just enough to stop the bolt from running smoothly. Changed the safety spring on the No1 Mk3 and it is fine now.