Questions about inherited Springfield M2 Rifle

Hi -- I inherited a Springfield M2 from my grandfather (who worked at the Armory, although I'm not sure if he acquired the gun during that time) decades ago. I shot it as a kid, but it has been neglected since. I'd like to get it cleaned up, and hopefully teach our daughter to shoot it, as with any luck it will be hers someday. So, before I take it to a gunsmith, I wanted to learn more about the one I have, and make sure I (or they) don't do anything to mess it up. I should probably also ask if there is any reason not to use it (I have no intention of selling it, but don't want to make it too much less collectable, either). I've read what I can about the various versions, but am a newbie to this, so here goes:

It is Serial Number 13109, with a barrel marked SA 4-42. The stock doesn't appear to have any markings other than the M2 on the bottom. The bolt has the SN hand etched on top and bottom. There is also a C 3998 stamped on the bolt, and an M2. Below are pix of the rifle & magazine.
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PS I also inherited a Remington 513-t at the same time, so I'll be asking about that soon.

THANKS for any help! -- David

[Safety solved] Well, I figured out how to move the safety with the bolt out, at least. A little oil and I was able to pull out the firing pin nut and move it (although three hands would have been helpful).

dcardinal, Congratulations on inheriting such a fine rifle. I collect the 1922 Series Springfields, of which the M2 is the last variation made. There are some things I can tell you about the rifle. Your M2 has the original finish on the metal. That can be told by the bolt well (round channel the bolt moves in) being in the white. When these rifles were refinished the bolt well was left parkerized. From my experience I would say that 5% or less of the M2 rifles escaped refinishing. A second plus is the bolt being numbered to the receiver. The proper placement of the serial number on the bolt is on the bottom with some digits on either side of the seam where the front and rear halves of the bolt join. Your bolt is numbered correctly. I have no explanation for the number also being on the top of the bolt. The barrel date is appropriate for the serial number of the rifle. As for cleaning the rifle, I would suggest running an oiled patch through the bore, wiping down the metal with a lightly oiled rag and putting a very small amount of oil on the moving parts. If there is dried grease in the action I would suggest you remove it with Hoppe's #9 or similar solvent. The magazine should have a small M2 stamped in the top left side. It will be a fine rifle to teach someone to shoot with. The rifle is in unusually good condition and without modifications, as best I can tell from the photos. Never have it refinished, never sand the stock, never allow any holes to be drilled in the gun. Doing any of that will subtract considerably from the value of the rifle. It is not supposed to harm an M2 rifle to dry fire it. Nevertheless, I would suggest putting a fired cartridge case or snap cap in the chamber when dry firing it.

The Lyman 48 sight may not move freely. To remove the windage/elevation slide turn the knurled nut on the front of the base counter clockwise as far as it will go without forcing it. Then press it in and while it is pressed in you should be able to pull the slide up out of the base. A little light oil on the threads of the windage and elevations screws should help them to move freely. When reinserting the windage/elevation slide you should make sure the small piece that is in the back of the base has not been turned. It must be flush with the metal around it to allow the slide to go into place. The sight has 1/2 minute clicks for both windage and elevation.

Herschel -- Thanks for all the great information. It is good to hear (but not entirely surprising) that the rifle is indeed in its original condition. My dad remembers it as having been around the house as long as he can remember, and my Grandfather was the head of the AFL Union at the Armory, so that part makes sense.

Thanks also for the tips on care & restoration, and in particular the note about having a fired cartridge in the chamber when dry firing. It does seem a little unusual to etch a serial number on both the top and bottom of the bolt, but FWIW the handwriting looks fairly similar between the two. Interestingly, I don't see an M2 stenciled into the magazine anyplace.

I'll definitely report back after I get it cleaned up and have a chance to fire it. Thanks again!--David

David, The M2 is small but should be apparent on the top left side of the magazine. If it is not stamped M2 then it is for the 1922M1 model. The M2 magazine is slightly longer but looks exactly like the 1922M1 magazine. Both magazines fit flush with the floorplate. The M2 mag extends slightly higher into the receiver to bring the top cartridge more in line with the chamber. The two magazines are no considered interchangeable. The bolt in your rifle might pick up the cartridge from the magazine and it might over-ride it. M2 magazines, and 1922M1 magazines show up often on the internet auctions. They normally sell for $100.00 to $150.00. Sometimes one can be bought for less.

I can't emphasize enough how fortunate you are to get that rifle with original finish. I suggested 5% of the M2's escaped refinishing but that figure is probably high. The Springfield .22's that show up on the internet auctions are often represented to be original finish. That is nearly always inaccurate. The sellers don't know how to recognize original finish and assume if is parkerized it is original.

If your rifle does not feed reliably the magazine will be the problem.

Herschel

Herschel -- Thanks for the note on the magazine. I sure can't see any evidence of a stamping, but it seems to extend pretty well into the chamber. At least I know that if there are any issues with feeding I need to get a new magazine. I'll start looking for one for the M2.

Thanks again for your kind words about the rifle. It is definitely a piece of both US and our family history. -- David

There are aftermarket magazines available but I don't know of any that have a good reputation for reliability. The M2 magazine only goes about 3/32" higher in the receiver. I am not sure of the 3/32" but the M2 magazine is not much longer than the 1922M1.

Thx. I've started to hunt around for an authentic one online. I don't mind spending the money, just need to find one for sale...

(Quoted)
I can't emphasize enough how fortunate you are to get that rifle with original finish. I suggested 5% of the M2's escaped refinishing but that figure is probably high. The Springfield .22's that show up on the internet auctions are often represented to be original finish. That is nearly always inaccurate. The sellers don't know how to recognize original finish and assume if is parkerized it is original

Just what Herschel said ,you are a fortunate man.
Great rifle
Charles

Charles -- Thanks for the nice note. So far it looks great, and fires fine. Going to the range with it this week to sight it in, but I'm sure it will be more accurate than I am. Now I just need to find an M2 magazine for it, as the one it has does indeed feed a little inconsistently, so I suspect it is an M1 magazine (no M2 stamp). I've ordered a repro mag in the meantime, but based on various comments I'm not holding my breath that it's the answer, so looking for an original also. The one other piece it is missing is a sling. Certainly not essential, but I need to research what it might have been equipped with originally and see if I can get one. -- David

David, The correct original sling would be the Model 1907 sling. There are some makers of very high quality exact replicas of the 1907 sling. Two of them are Turner Saddlery and Les Tam of Hawaii. Several inferior copies are available. A good one will have sewn keepers and heavy brass or steel hooks. It is easy to spot a cheap copy by the keepers with staples. A good reproduction sling will cost $60 to $100 dollars but should last a life time. Original issue type slings are available on the auctions and at gun shows. They are not cheap. $50 and up I would say.
A web sling would have been used on these rifles in WWII and later. The web slings are not as good for position shooting and just don't look as good to us collectors.

Great info. Thanks. I'll look for a high-quality replica of a 1907 sling. -- David