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Hi guys, finishing a a4 clone, that I put a new gi barrel on, and need to set the head spacing. I do not own a 30-06 finishing reamer and was looking to buy a pull thru, when I came across a company that rents gun smithing tools. 4d reamers. Has anyone had experience with renting chamber reamers. I would hate to get one that was dull, and caused chatter marks, but I'm not sure how many 30-06 rifles I'll end up doing. Thanks for any input.
Many here have used a rental reamer and recommended it. I bought a 7.62 to do my Kreiger barrel on my M1 and that was what was available to me. I still have it and it won't go bad. I don't regret it, it was sharp and perfect. There's another site I attend where one of our members here has a pull through reamer for sale...he did one and now it's out of there. You may even find someone here that will lend or rent you the reamer...
you should use a T handle type reamer...rather then the pull through type, the pull through was made for the Garand,
That's actually what I used on the M1. I just don't want to be burned for heresy...Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckindenver
i use them on Garands as well, though i dont think a first timer should try that.
i use a 1/4, extention and a plastic T handle for small sockets, and a small socket that fits nicely over the reamer, the socket acts as a guide as well, keeps things square,
Thanks for the info guys, I've never worked on a barrel out of the lathe. Thanks chuck I was unaware it was improper to not use a pull thru, I was misinformed . Can I assume using a t handle reamer, you would just push lightly, clean and check with the go gauge. And continue as necessary ? Thanks for the help.Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckindenver
Not to steal from Chuck...you'll have so little come out it may surprise you. Go easy. Very gently...
Thanks I willQuote:
Originally Posted by browningautorifle
a quality finish reamer is made to stop cutting when the profile is made, you can push through it, but dont.
lots of oil is needed, i use ATF.
you will feel it cut, only go clock wise. and do not reverse it, when it stops cutting, go one more turn, and stop, rotate the same way as you pull the reamer out,
clean with a short patched rod, and check your work,
i used a SAMI action proving round available through most gunsmiths suppliers.
or, a live factory round will work as well, check with the cocking assembly removed,
I forgot that he didn't likely know all that Chuck.
Thanks for all the info, I have one ordered from brownells, their back ordered at this time.Quote:
Originally Posted by browningautorifle