DP Ishapore convert to 22 trainer?

I picked up a bunch of Ishapore SMLE rifles that are DP marked and have a hole drilled through the chamber. these have been sitting in the corner for a few years and then the other day I came up with the idea of turning them into 22 trainers. All I need now is the bolt heads or I could convert the Ishapore bolt heads because they already welded the firing pin hole.
Most of the rifles are scrubbed but there are 2 that are not and they are in the best condition.
one is 1925 and the other 1932 both GRI marked and all matching. Shame they were drilled but I think I can bring them back to life.

So whats the forum say. leave them or convert them?
Thanks

If it's cheap to do so, then convert them. A hole in the .303" chamber ain't going to concern you if they're going to be re-lined anyway

The world can never have too many firearms!! Fix 'em if you have the talent....

a few close ups of the offending hole
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...840c089f-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...067bb4f9-1.jpg

Other than the hole the 2 rifles I will convert are in excellent condition.

I have four such rifles with the same idea. Only two drilled. All four have a spot of welding in the chamber.

If I hade one here, I'd do it in a minute. I'd love to have a GRI in .22.

ok so this rebuild is a go ahead. I ordered some barrel liners and got out my best stilsons. I will try and remember to take some pictures along the way.
things I dont have but will need..
22lr reamer
head space gauges
scale drawing of the bolt head showing the position of the firing pin hole. (or a picture)

I'd just buy the bolt head. The reamers are cheap enough and that way you have a new one. They cut so nice that way. The headspace is simple. You don't want any part of the rim cut in the chamber. When the ream comes close, you're done.

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

I'd just buy the bolt head..

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I have looked around and have not seen any forsale I need 3 possibly 4 depending on what I do with a 1896 LE action that I have that can never be a 303 again. I may just turn that into a 22 trainer as well.

A WTB on here might glean you some...a couple anywayzzz?

Numrich is showing the boltheads and firing pins in stock, in theiir SMLE section.

How will you support the .22 barrel liiner at the chamber end?

If it was me I'd just machine up a solid .303" round from mild steel and bore the appropriate sized hole through the centre.

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Originally Posted by Mr E

I picked up a bunch of Ishapore SMLE rifles that are DP marked and have a hole drilled through the chamber. these have been sitting in the corner for a few years and then the other day I came up with the idea of turning them into 22 trainers. All I need now is the bolt heads or I could convert the Ishapore bolt heads because they already welded the firing pin hole.
Most of the rifles are scrubbed but there are 2 that are not and they are in the best condition.
one is 1925 and the other 1932 both GRI marked and all matching. Shame they were drilled but I think I can bring them back to life.

So whats the forum say. leave them or convert them?
Thanks

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I think you should mark them as converted privately with maybe a "CP" stamp as the GRI original 22 trainers do not get cross referenced with them. The GRI stuff is usually not well made or put together so they might be seen as that from factory if you do nto mark them. In my book keep as many guns active as possible good luck with the project.

[QUOTE=mudgee;293762] The GRI stuff is usually not well made or put together QUOTE]

Why do you believe that? The RFI No2's that I've seen are every bit as good as as any British or Lithgow ones.

Quite agree though that conversions should be marked to indicate modern origins.

Could you convert one to somthing other than rim fire? Perhaps .22 hornet? No need to convert a bolt head then.

Attachment 51290Attachment 51291Attachment 51292Attachment 51293

I did convert a Remington rolling block in 43 cal to 22 rim rifle and made a hard bushing for the breech which you can view from the photo.

On a Model 1903, a barrel liner was installed with an extension to take up the space and a M2 rim fire bolt was used.

All of these conversions that I have done are very accurate and worth the time

to answer a few questions
*no I can not make them a centerfire caliber with the barrel liners. though I have thought of 297/230 or 310 cadet but that would involve getting another barrel etc.
*It will be easier and cheaper for me to make the bolt heads from the ones I already have. 1 hole 1 firing pin 1 extractor 20 minutes.(x4)
*for the chamber because its a permanent conversion of a ruined barrels (x4)I am just going to drill the chamber out and weld in an insert made from some 30cal barrel stubs
*marking them? I think the big holes in the action and barrel will be a bit of a red flag to any collector

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Originally Posted by Peter Laidler

If it was me I'd just machine up a solid .303" round from mild steel and bore the appropriate sized hole through the centre.

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if I were going to make a removable conversion I would do that and solder the liner into it and thread the muzzle end like the conversion tubes that were available.

started on this today. The first rifle is in pieces and the barrel is in the lathe ready to modify the chamber end with an insert. I will be using a piece of 30 cal barrel to sleeve the chamber before drilling for the liner

I got the .22 barrel liners but need to get a long drill and a .22 reamer

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Originally Posted by Maxwell Smart

How will you support the .22 barrel liiner at the chamber end?

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here is a few pictures of what I did tonight.
drilled out the chamber with a 1/2" drill and made an insert from a piece of p14 barrel then soldered that in place

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...b756747b-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...ab56e54d-1.jpg

I am going to leave the stub sticking out like that and turn it down to get the correct head space. now its ready to be drilled for the liner

Interesting. I'm looking forward to more progress reports!

Like Steve, thread 20, so am I. A great project to resurrect something previously worthless(?). But you could simplify the CHS aspect up a bit Mr E by calculating that the face of the bolt is the 'stop and work forward from there, to the original face of the barrel, between which the original CHS was measured.

A .22" CHS gauge set is east to make. Can anyone remember the CHS criteria for the No2 rifle. It didn't change over the century as the same gauges remained the same for the No8 rifles! and are still in use today! If you need the spec MrE, I'll see if I can't measure mine or just look it up - if I still have the EMER!!!!!

the way I intended to do the headspace etc. is to trim down the extension untill the bolt closed firmly on it then with the chamber reamed and the rim recess cut it will be OK.
I am doing 3 rifles at the same time and dont have any spare bolt bodies or heads so I am going to make them work with the parts that they came with.
I hit a road block yesterday when I went to put the liners in. the liners were sold as 5/16" OD and I drilled the barrels to 5/16 (.3125) but the liners dont fit because they are 8mm (.3150) so I have ordered an 8mm reamer that should be here by friday. so while I wait for that I will start converting the bolt heads and making extractors.

well its almost finished. just need an extractor.
here is a video of the rifle firing. not the actual first shots because I fired 3 shots from it before I put all the wood back on.

http://youtu.be/cxgd8qff9x4
I have a few of these getting converted. I am teaching my 2 older boys how to do the work that why its taking so long to get mine done
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...306643e1-1.jpg
welding up the bolt head. I made an insert that fills the void where the firing pin goes and welded it in place.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...2260195c-1.jpg
back end machined off and drilled for firing pin
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...de074628-1.jpg
bolt face with finished firing pin
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...49936a11-1.jpg

I was going to refinish all the metal and make the wood look "beautiful" but now I have decided to just touch up the machining marks and leave the rest in the "as I got it" state.

That'll do!

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...e7a1cc8d-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...4735bfb1-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...3a41cf81-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...e9a68f4e-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...16cbaf21-1.jpg

Nice work, I really enjoy my .22 SMLE you keeping one?

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Originally Posted by Roy

you keeping one?

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I intended to have all 3 but now I have one finished for me and if my boys finish 1 its theirs but if they dont finish it then its mine too.
funny how collecting 303's gets some times

Outstanding work! It's great so see something which could so easily have ended up as a wall-hanger or scrapped for parts given new life as something useful for future generations to enjoy.

Did you glue or solder the Liners in place.

I use both methods, the glue is easier but if you make a mistake with the head space it is a nightmare to put right, how ever if it is soldered you can re-heat and push the liner down a bit further so you can re-cut the chamber

Great work and a pleasure to see

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Originally Posted by Simon P

Did you glue or solder the Liners in place.

I use both methods, the glue is easier but if you make a mistake with the head space it is a nightmare to put right, how ever if it is soldered you can re-heat and push the liner down a bit further so you can re-cut the chamber

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I used loctite 609 to secure the liner and I have to say its so much easier than soldering. it was so easy that the liner was done in about 5 minutes

so I went ahead and converted the 1896 LE1 to 22. its the one at the back thats missing alot of parts.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...2f8a7819-1.jpg

I am going to do my best to fit it out like a long lee enfield No2
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...38a67e62-1.jpg