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Finally found a nice Longbranch to fill that hole in my small family of Enfields. Only one issue a splitting forestock. I have seen this issue addressed here but cannot seem to find the post. Any tips on how to repair this before it becomes a big problem or hints on finding the previous posting. I seem to remember a treaded wire threaded into a drilled hole at a 90 degree angle to the split. Any input would be appreciated.
You COULD put a slip patch here but I wouldn't bother........ Just drill a small hole at the end of the crack to relieve it. Then open up the crack and insert some wood adhesive. Clamp-up. Then tomorrow carefully drill a hole verticallt down, not necessarily completely through. Make a suitable diameter plug, drive home and that should be it for the next 70 years.
Just my opinion of course but the threaded wire thing ain't for wood that's already split. It's to strengthen wood that MIGHT split.
I will do just that. Any recommendations on a good waterproof adhesive? I have had good success with gorilla glue on umfinished wood but the foaming as it cures would create an awful mess on finished wood.
I just use aero spec wood adhesive. Easy to clean off after setting for 24 hrs. Been discussed here several times. I hope that this Gorilla glue is better than the double back gorilla tape I used to put the number plates onto my VW Polo. The front plate one is probably still on the autobahn between Dusseldorf and Calais!
The Gendarmerie have probably got a fist full of speeding tickets under that number for you Peter on your return:lol::lol:
HOH: Nice looking rifle! How's the bore? Regarding glue brands, I've done several repairs, including complete draws patches, with "Titebond III". I found it at the local lumberyard but it's imported from the US. It seems similar to normal white glue (only stronger?) and spillage can easily be cleaned off with a damp rag. Tested a Savage No. 4 yesterday that had complete draws replacement glued in with this stuff (and dowelled, of course) and 60 rounds didn't cause any problems. I'd be curious to hear of other brand names that members have found effective. I agree Gorilla glue might be pretty messy.
Ridolpho
The bore looks quite good. I have been looking for the areo spec Peter mentioned with no luck if someone has a trade name. I picked up some locktite Go2 which drys clear ,shock,heat and water resistant seems to be a flexable super glue sets in 30 min. cures in 24 hrs and the viscosity sees ideal for application with a syringe. In no hurry to complete the project so I will wait for additional input on the glue etc... Picked up another tip today. The use of bamboo skewers for the dowelling. The seem to be a good diameter for the ara in question and they are pretty stout not to mention I have some .
One more question should I flush the area to be bonded with a solvent (acetone perhaps) and let dry before gluing/ doweling to aid in bonding?
I suppose you could clear off the area to be glued but I don't ever remember doing it and my patches didn't seem to come loose.
Bamboo skewers.............. It's just a fibre. I was taught to use oak
I was a bit concerned about bonding to the BLO soaked wood. Oak seems the logical choice but I have yet to find them in the correct diameter. Think I have a friend who can turn one down for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Laidler
Thanks guys. I will post the results.
HOH, do yourself a favor and just use good old fashion wood glue. Titebond, Elmer's, whatever brand you like. The glued joint is stronger then the wood itself. I flush with Acetone as a matter of course when working on Milsurps "makes me feel better either way". Get hold of some rubber tubing so you can apply clamping pressure. I use oak, if you have a drill chuck it up and turn it down to your desired diameter with 100 grit sandpaper held in your hand. It's how I do it in my humble home shop.
Squared & drilled dowell holes then flushed with acetone and used a syringe to insert Titebond water proof wood glue. Used three clamps to bind things up then glued & drove home the pegs and let it sit for about 24 hours unclamped cut the dowels flush a dab of stain and here you have it. Hopefully good enough to prevent further damage upon firing.
Thanks to all for all the input.
Good job, over time keep an eye on the crack if it starts to spread you may have to relieve it and peg the side, probably not but,,,,
BTW the draws looked good and fitment seemed proper but there were also two cracks in the rear face of the forend that were glued up before the glueing/doweling in the side. I will be interested to see how the repairs perform under fire.