I have purchased a No 4 T with the replica Mk II and the reticle doesn't line up with turret for elevation. Is there an easy way to line it up?
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I have purchased a No 4 T with the replica Mk II and the reticle doesn't line up with turret for elevation. Is there an easy way to line it up?
I was going to be crass and just reply, suggesting '.......just save a bit harder and get a real scope and your problems will be over' but I won't. But I will ask if you'll elaborate a bit. Your question is just toooooo vague for an answer JLacy
I thought all the repros were mkIs?
Mk1's or 2's........, you never really know what it is once you start zeroing it using the drums!
I think this is what JLACY is speaking of.
The drum graduations do not line up with the index mark. This is a problem with ALL the repro scopes but the RSM is the best of the lot with at least a diamond index mark and "close" to hitting the number on the drum graduation.
The only way to correct this is: 1- new index gear wheel, 2- re-position the index gear wheel or 3- re-position the index mark.
Pictures attached of two of the repro's: L-R.... RSM , Numrich-GP./Sarco, and an Cdn. REL
and one picture of the Numrich/Gunparts/Sarco close up.
Warren has also answered the question occasionally asked about why you'll occasionally find the index pointer not in the centre of the angled slot. Now you know. The nickel index mark plate was added to the index plate LAST and positioned so that the mark aligned exactly(?) with the number. Easier to position the index mark than jigging around with different clicker plates.
I get/got the impression that JLacey didn't have the point of the grat where he wanted it and needed advice on how to move it. Until he comes back, we'll never know!
You scared him off Peter...
The reticle or sight post is several degrees off from verticle. I have everything level (rifle, mount, & scope body) but the post comes out from 85° angle instead of 90°. The guy that put it together had to have had a bad day visually.
Peter, I have your book on the T but not on the 32. I will eventually get the real scope but this one came with the rifle. I would hate to sell the repro to some one knowing it isnt right. I shot the rifle today and it is a keeper. With a 174 SMK over 41.5 RL 15 it can hold 1.5 inches from the bench. We hold vintage sniper matches each month and I can't wait to use it.
Will the POI be true to the bore if the Grat is the ~5 degrees from Vertical or tangent off as the angle off will increase as the range increases and you dial in the windage
Re cinders Q in thread 10 first..... If it is the actual graticle post that is canted within the diaphragm/diaphram block then the the tip of the point will still elevate/depress vertically and so will remain zeroed.
But if the post is angled/canted because the telescope is canted in the bracket or the actual bracket is canted, then this is something different. Because the grat post will elevate and depress normally but in doing so will be moving left/right across the screen slightly as it does so.
So JLacy, from what you say, the rifle is upright when a level is placed across the bridge charger guide, level when the level is placed across the range turret but the grat post is slightly angled. Is that correct? In that case, you will have to re-set the grat post in the diaphragm block. We often had to do this when we'd put a new post into the block. Rotating the tele slightly won't cure it - see para 2 above
Or just live with it!
Peter, I do have every thing level. Does your book on the 32 explain how to fix it? Warren I would still like to get it Tarted.
If I can make a suggestion, as many of the mounts and the scopes do not have the aligning slot and the aligning pins line up correctly, is just remove the pin and level the cross hair. That will plumb the post as well. The reticule in all the repro scopes, except for the very early RSM have a "cookie cutter reticule". The early RSM had a post ONLY. The cross hair and post in the repro's I've seen all are cut out of foil as one element and not separate elements as in the "real No.32" which has a separate post and stadia cross wire. It is very difficult to replace the existing element with a post and wire in the repro as you have to cut the slots in the diaphragm for the wire stadia as well as the post and any error will put you back where you are now. Also, the position of the stadia and the post in relation to the OG lens will screw up the focus. A thou. or two error is deadly with the focus. Perhaps Peter still has the formula for the location of the elements in relation to the OG lens focal point as I cannot put my finger on it. This will show you how little it takes to really screw up the focus and that is on a real No.32
My recommendation: just remove the aligning pin from the scope turret and set for level and plumb..........
Mmmmmmmmmm!
Well, other than THAT Mrs. Lincoln, how did you enjoy the play?? ;-)Quote:
Originally Posted by Warren
Okay, seriously, If that is the "only" problem with these repops, that is a very easy fix....especially seeing that the area is a simple flat there......mill out/grind the existing mark out, and cut a new one...aligned with the turret markings.
So, "other than that", Warren, do these repops actually work for a suitable copy/clone use?? Do they move under recoil, i.e., can you actually shoot the gun with them mounted???
-TomH
I will try it both ways and keep a lookout for the real 32 in the future. Thanks gents!!!
Wise choice in looking for an original No.32.
The repro is that and nothing more.
It fills a temporary need but remember it is not a mil-spec scope and never will be. It is too bad the lenses are not interchangeable but I will be experimenting with that shortly and if they are it might provide a source of lenses as No.42's and 53's are getting up in price to almost that of the repro's from some dealers. To have glass lenses made nowadays is a real problem as almost all lens grinders are into plastic and the set up costs for glass are prohibitive and not many bowl grinders are still around or alive.
Plus, no parts are available nor can you scavenge parts from other devices as you can with the No.32.
This makes the repro scope very unattractive to anyone wanting or attempting to fix them.
There are a few things that can be done to "tart up" the repro but the upgrades should have been done before it hit the market. I doubt if any repro's were shock or fire tested.
The current offerings on "TAS" look nice but that is as far as it goes.
---------- Post added at 09:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:33 AM ----------
Tom: With all your contacts in the industry I'd save my loose change and pick up an original No.32 Mk. III. They can be rebuild from even relic condition to "as new"Quote:
Originally Posted by TactAdv
I'd be hard pressed to recommend the repro's of any maker to a professional in the business.
I'll phone you some evening this week and we can chew the fat.
If I might make a suggestion: if you have a T or replica with bracket you can shoot it (while looking for your real No. 32) with a cheap Weaver K3 or similar. These can be found on e-bay for a couple of hundred bucks in great shape. The weight difference between a Weaver and the real thing is immense and an added benefit to using one might be dramatically reduced recoil stresses on the front pad. I used a K3 on a replica just to get shooting then "upgraded" to a Taiwanese No. 32 replica. This has functioned well so-far (maybe 250 rounds) and things like the range calibrations seem reasonable. Now that I've got a couple of real T's I try to limit the round count through them by using the replica for casual or foul weather shooting. Eventually I'll probably sell the replica on to give someone who can't afford the real thing the opportunity to shoot something reasonably close to it- I'll lose money on it due to the high price of the replica scope.
Ridolpho
I got it sighted in yesterday afternoon at 100 yards with the Gun Parts Mk II scope. I hope that Friday I can walk it out to 700 yards and see if it tracks close enough to use in a match. This No4T is from India and someone has restocked her. They did a great job on the bedding and also on the paint. You can tell that some one used a cleaning rod from the muzzle but she still groups well. Like I always say about Garands, you don't know what it can do till you shoot it. A true Mk II or III will be in its future.
Not one to go off topic but has anyone had any experience with any of the other repro scopes out there ? copies of German, Russian scopes etc.
I have used Accumounts PE copy and a copy of the M84. They both work but not like the orginals. Both of them are clear and hold zero but you have to go off clicks instead of the scales on elevation. I have been involved with a RSM ZF39 replica and it is not that sturdy. Cheap of the cheap.
Well, I have to say that you guys are really making me cringe. I now have probably 1,300 rods through my repro 4T with Warren's tarted up scope on it. I remove the scope and put it and the rifle in my repro transit box after every outing. Last night I scored a first shot hit on a 16"x16" gong at 700m in really low light and really high wind. If any of these are being torture tested it's surely mine and so far it's really holding me over until I can buy a real one. And on that day I'll really shoot the repro to death.
It's just like buying a Moskvich car in the 80's Flying Pig. It was probably perfect for you and others who just wanted something to get around the block - while the going was good. But when an engineer looks under the bonnet, he tells you it's shi............ er..............., not quite all the ticket and any repair that you need in the future might be problematical.
Or the other old chestnut about '.......well, my grandad smoked 50 Capstan Full-Strength cigarettes a day and he lived until he was 100 - before he died (of cancer). So 5 a day won't harm me. Enjoy the Moskvich or the whatevers while you can I say
Just my view of these repros having fixed one of the three that I have been asked to fix.