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I am gathering parts for a retro AR and have found a couple of M16A1 uppers that seem to have some sort of deteriation of the metal. Does anyone have an opinion as to the cause of this? Would this render an upper unsuitable for use? Could it be repaired and refinished?
Metal in the affected areas can be flaked off with a fingernail.
Oxidization? As in rust? Where was it stored? It looks like it's deteriorating. I'd bead blast it and have someone redo the finish. I had Olympic in Olympia Wa do an upper about 25 years ago. Must be someone around that'll do it?
It is from a parts kit. It is amazingly soft in the affected areas. I am going to try and get a better one before resorting to restoration. Want the build to look used but not used as a boat paddle.
You should be able to find one around here...
On the aluminum, the surface is hardened. If the surface is worn away, the interior is soft. Maybe exposure to salt water?
That seems to be the case, The finish is gone and it does seem to be worn beyond the surface layer. I wonder if there is a way to repair the soft evposed areas and refinnish? Perhaps cericoat?Quote:
Originally Posted by imarangemaster
You could bead blast it to get loose, deteriorating material off, then use JB weld, file. Then you couldfile it, fine sand it, then Cerocote. JB weld is very tough and would work great.
The metal is just going to continue to disintegrate. It's like rust but the aluminum version. Once the salt got below the surface it was all over for it. Even if you were to blast it the metal will continue to come apart and will finally fail. Like any iron or steel that's been in salt water for a long time it has to be treated with a long period of being in fresh water and that takes years to leach out the salt. It's close to failure now so you would be better off looking for a new one. This one is gone.
Previous eperience with this sort of corrosion in aircraft structures compels me to agree. It's toast. The intergranular corrosion will usually have penetrated quite deeply into the metal before the external apperance gets this bad. No hope for it, and could be more unsound than most folk would suspect.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce McAskill
BTW, usual culprit are chemicals on the alkaline side of the p.h. chart. The stronger alloys are more prone to corrosion. In this case, likely 7075. Probably T6 or equivalent heat treat, not that it matters much. 2024 will fizz nicely, too.
This upper if from a parts kit of unknown origin. The vendor has sent the original and three replacements two had this corrosion issue the other two had mechanical defects. Perhaps the fith time will be the charm.
There might be a reason why those uppers were available aside from the old features....Big bin of scrap.
You may have to settle and repair in that case. My first A2 was a Canadian issue from the armourer's shop and the rear sight protectors were damaged. They'd used it for chemical tests so the finish was damaged also. I cleaned down the ears, bead blasted it and sent it to Olympic for finish. They sent it back done and I assembled from there. That worked out fine...Quote:
Originally Posted by HOOKED ON HISTORY
The reviews are quite mixed. Some indicate slight wear while others have been like mine scrap grade .The stock and handguards were fair to good,the small bits looked good and a couple of the BCGs appeared unused.Quote:
Originally Posted by jmoore
Well perseverance/persistance paid off. The latest replacement arrived and what do you know an actual sound upper. Handguard missing a tooth (whos not?) and a cracked butt plate both of which I have replacements for so no more complaining. Now I can get in line at NODAK-SPUD and wait a while longer. Any opinions on barrel twist rate 1/12 vs 1/9 ?
Depends which bullet you intend to use. I have a 9" twist on my M4gery and it seems very accurate, a 7" gave me a bit of trouble with 55 gr bullets though. I don't think I'll ever be able to get or use current tracer so any ball I lay hands on should be fine out of 9". You should be able to get an early profile in 9" twist...
I may go with the 1 in 9. The 1 in 12 is "correct" but who is counting. It's an M164gery why not give myself a twist rate that will handle heavier projectiles. That and the fact that Delton has a 1/9 with the FSB attached has me leaning 1/9.
Sort of my train of thought. No one's going to care about the twist, just the look.Quote:
Originally Posted by HOOKED ON HISTORY
I like the slower twist for my 55gr deer hunting bullets. Less apt to have bullets come apart after impact. Otherwise, most all my barrels are 1-7".
I was having copper build up issues with 55s and 7" twist...very strange.
I feel fortunate that my only issue now is twist rate. I would have thought there would be a strong market for retro ARs and parts. Not so much. Just a couple of suppliers with parts kits,one company producing retro lowers/uppers and a couple of folks producing "pencil" barrels.
It'll all work out. The guys here have a few parts too I should think. If you go fishing a bit...
Does anyone have any experience with the nodak spud lowers? They offer them in black and xm grey and not sure which would more closely match the color of my upper.
I fit it to a current production Bushmaster lower (fit perfectly) and the lower was much darker.
Nodak Spud is a top notch outfit and the product was worth the wait. They even hand selected a lower for the best fit with my upper. Assembly went smoothly. I aged the lower with a scotchbrite pad and some steel wool to match the wear patterns on the upper and tinkered with the finish on the stock & handguards to make them match a bit better and here is the result. If anyone has been wanting to do a retro I highly recomend it. Rewarding project. Perhaps a 601 or 602 next?
It looks correct. I'd love to actually have hands on for a look, it sure took a long time.
Backordered lower was the delay.Mostly Colt save the lower barrel and most of the FCG.Quote:
Originally Posted by browningautorifle
HOH, you, like me now need the proper dimpled selector to complete the look. I've got my eye out for a couple :)
I have the one that came with the kit but used a complete new FCG. I will look this evening and see if it is dimpled. Will the Colt selector work properly with the modern semi FCG?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Hollinger
Forgot I had it handy. Kit came without the fun parts but did have the selector. No dimple. And I thought I was done. The search for a dimpled selector begins.
Attachment 63253Attachment 63254
I thought the tank made a good back drop for the finished project.
Looks good...
Nice!
M-60 A-1 Tank is that correct? sorta reminds me of the Lee Grant with the extra turret though the Lee ended up with 2 turrets and that 75mm on a sponson mount, I know the bigger of the 2 turrets had the 37mm but the top one did that have a 30 Browning or was it a BESA thanks for any info. Very nice weapon H.O.H if only we were allowed things like that.
I believe that's correct. We CAN own those as far as I know. I know here in Canada a howitzer has no paperwork because ammo is deemed unavailable. That from the registrar of Calgary city Police...and a man in Calgary has a 105mm sitting in his front yard down there...there are military collectors with tanks. And YOU Cinders have the brass. I'd be turning projectiles for you. I'd hand load the primer tubes and we'd probably use Pyrodex for filler...it could be done.Quote:
Originally Posted by CINDERS
I think in a Dusty Creek vid a M-10 rolls up and proceeds to knock things flat with the muzzle break every time it cuts loose how do you get a licence for one of them!!!!
You just want to blow things up...or down...
Shot her yesterday (rifle not the tank sorry) and function was ok 1 FTE (stove pipe) & 1 FTE. I think a bit of break in is needed. I did make on discovery. I pitty those poor lefties who carried these weapons into combat. Tosses that hot brass directly into your right cheek.
What loads are you using?? Sounds like my IMR4198 reloads! Hahaha. Check your gas rings. Make sure there are 3, and that they don't have the breaks in the ring lined up with each other. Also check and make sure the gas key is tight on the Bolt Carrier.
A fail to extract can be the extractor and you can't tell...until you change it. The fail to eject too...sometimes. Also as stated...your loads should be what the book demands for the military loads. Short changing these doesn't always work...