My Storage Dream Comes True

Online yard sale posting on Saturday. Spent the next couple of days negotiating. Came home for $300 which I felt was a pretty good deal.

Antique, solid oak drawer fronts, sides, top and trim. Has fancy scrollwork trim on the sides. Center drawer has had finish partially stripped and handles are present. Size is about 42 inches wide, 29 inches deep and 37 inches high Eight drawers about two inches deep.

Going to be my major project for the next few weeks. Full finish strip, tightening of the drawers and joints and refinish.

This is not my photo, it's the one they used in the add. They had a piece of black granite sitting on top that I cropped out. Top is a solid oak block.

I don't know how many bayonets this will hold but I suspect it will contain all of mine with some room to spare.

Any ideas for drawer bottoms? I'm thinking some sort of thin carpet.

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Thin carpet would work, keep them from sliding around. Also neutral color so you can take pics after.

That is a score! What was its original use? Anixiously awaiting "before" photos. I always liked the green felt in display drawers / boxes but that would be a pain. They make some shelf liner in many shades that might work if the bottom of the drawers is all that needs covering.

The previous owner called it a printers cabinet. There is some sort of label in one of the drawers saying "Artists, Designers, Engravers" which would seem to indicate it was used for storage of art prints, advertising notices, posters, etc.

I've seen them used for blueprints.

I could store full length swords in this if I had any.

I thought of felt but it's too big for felt, plus I don't want to glue anything permanent into it and if you don't glue felt, it isn't going to stay.

I'm also considering sheet rubber, I have easy access to that. I guess I'll have to look around. A couple of carpet remnants from Home Depot might do the trick.

Ideally, I'd like a way to lock the drawers but I'm not planning to alter it. Thinking more along the lines of an exterior type of bar.

Here's another option. Won't wick the oil off the metal.
Amazon.com: JEGS Performance Products W88996 Toolbox Drawer Liner: Automotive

The problem as I see it is that get a few bayonets together and they are very heavy and the weight of a drawer full of bayonets is going to play havoc with the drawer bases and wood(?) runners. We had something similar using 'map draws' to store pistols and bayonets at Warminster, But we strengthened the draw bottoms and also made sure that you couldn't pull the drawer out too far

Peter,

I think I'll be good. This thing is built pretty well with solid wood drawer bases. Plus my collection isn't huge and it's near complete as far as I'm concerned. I'm not a one of each manufacturer collector, just one of each major type and/or one for each rifle I own. I doubt the entire collection weighs 300lbs and distributed over 8 drawers, that should be no problem.

That sure beats my footlock I use to store mine in. Great Find!!!!
Semper Fi
Phil

Took some better photos of it and put some bayonets in it for scale purposes. The Lebel is about one inch too long to fit front to back. Drawer interiors are 3/8 inch poplar which is an American hardwood. Not as hard as Oak but still pretty sturdy. Not an attractive wood which is why it's used on interiors. Has a green cast to it which makes it easily recognizable. Previous owners started the refinishing process and have a lot of the old finish off but they didn't get it all off. Interior is surprisingly clean. Hardly looks used so probably did have paper products in it rather than hard items. Not all the drawers have that "lip" in the back, probably broken and lost. Drawers will hold tight with all but three inches pulled out.

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Pimp it out with some L.E.D light strips that turn on when a drawer is open,,,,:cool:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WarPig1976

Pimp it out with some L.E.D light strips that turn on when a drawer is open,,,,:cool:

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:lol:

Some Homer Formby's + steel wool + elbow grease will have her looking like new in no time.

"Pimp it out with some L.E.D light strips that turn on when a drawer is open."
That is an excellent idea. Did that to rod lockers on the boat works great.

Not pimped just some soft back light.

Like Peter said, with wooden cabinets a lot depends on the quality and condition of the drawer runners. I use indoor/outdoor carpet in my cabinet drawers and on the top for a work surface. That toolbox drawer liner product suggested by WarPig looks good too. I have over 400 bayonets in my cabinet and still have room for plenty more.

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Ok, off to find a blueprint cabinet.

Arogorn243,
That looks like the map cabinet from the FBI Building in Philadelphia which I was very familar with many years ago, I'll PM you;);)

nice display the wood cabinets I seen and the steel ones are quite $$$ I used wire grid like 2 in x 4 in and hung it on a wall or some stores have grid wall that stands on the floor or attach to a wall. also where the swords went bill

Aragorn243,
Tried to send you a PM it bounced back as you appear to have exceeded your PM recorded quota and need to dump some old ones before you can receive anymore;)

Never noticed it was full. Taken care of.

Phase one complete. Drawer fronts stripped with citri-strip. That was a real fun gooey mess, heavy sarcasm. Got the bulk of the crap off. Now to find another good stripper for fine work. Thinking about the Formby's. I'm glad the previous owners got most of it off the rest of it.

Photos soon I hope.

This drawer set is for drafted plan sheets and probably held old blue-prints at one time. They are probably pre-1950 but can't say for sure. Engineers, public works probably replaced them with newer metal ones with better drawer slide hardware. I' had plans to review that would just about fill the drawer to a 2 inch depth. They get heavy. They are often repurposed by artists, screen printers and for collectables.

Local Wally World didn't have Formby's so that has to wait another day. Worked on the handles today. They are copper plated steel and unfortunately both rusted and corroded. Cleaned them off in vinegar, maybe 60% of the copper is left.

So now I know why you are not getting on with the revolver!
A great find. In the UK these are usually known as draughtsman's cabinets, and are very expensive. After years of looking for something affordable, I found two smaller ones that had been fitted as drawer stacks for a desk. Excellent for drawings, plans, maps and the like. I use mine for plastic HO model parts that would end up in a horrible heap in deeper drawers. But these cabinets are not suited for the weight of metal parts. If overloaded, not only the drawer base, but also the fixed separator panels, will sag and set in a bend. This makes it hard to pull out a drawer, as the back jams on the sagging base and separator panel of the drawer above. Keep the contents light!


BTW, the top rail at the back of the drawer is intended to prevent paper curling up and catching on the inside of the framing or being crunched up when you push the drawer in. Sheets should be laid in the drawer with the back edge beneath the rail. Missing rails are worth replacing..

Another term for these wood or metal containers is. Cartographers Cabinets. Used to store Ordanance Survey Maps. Also Artwork Cabinets as well as Engineering Blueprints.
There you go guy's! so there are THREE different terms for you to start your searches. In The Differing venues!..........:cheers:

Project on hold for the moment because I can't find Formby's furniture stripper anywhere. Any other suggestions? Home Depot has Minwax furniture stripper and Minwax is said to have bought Formby's, is it the same stuff? Would like to be able to work on it the 4th of July weekend.

You need the thixotropic gel type of paint stripper. Use only with plenty of fresh air, not in a closed room. Heaven knows what it has in it, but if you get it on your skin it feels cool for a couple of seconds - and then starts to burn. So you need rubber gloves and wood-handled natural-bristle brushes to paint it onto the wood - it will dissolve plastic gloves and brushes!

This kind of stripper is offered in two types - water-soluble and spirit-soluble. Use the spirit-soluble type if you can get it. After application and waiting some minutes, scrape off the goo and wash off any traces with turpentine. This does not raise the grain of the wood (as water would do) and leaves a clean wood surface that can be lacquered, painted, or just rubbed over with linseed oil.

Did I mention that wide-open windows are a must? And a roll of paper kitchen towelling to wipe off the scraper. Plenty of paper on the floor is a good idea as well. Best do it outside, if you can. But the results can be excellent, and it is what I use on gunstocks, as it does no harm to metal components or the wood. And you can clean a section at a time - no need to attempt to do the entire surface in one arduous and messy operation!


P.S. I shouldn't have told you all this - it would be more interesting for me if you carried on with the revolver!

I already have the majority of the finish off, just wanted the Formby's to get the rest and start the finish process.

Revolver has to wait until this is done. This is taking up way to much room in my living room.

I've used a product called Zip Strip on several different wood refinishing projects and it works extremely well. Even used it to strip paint off a car one time. You should be able to get it at most paint stores. Ace Hardware also shows it on their web site.

I have several sets of these wooden cabinets. They are sometimes referred to as flat files. I look at Craig's list from time to time and often see them there. I do not use any liners in my wood drawers. If I had metal ones I would, but it's not really necessary in the wood drawers.

I have located Formby's finally. Plan to pick some up tomorrow so will probably start working on it in the evenings. Did use citristrip again today to get some more of the bulk goo off. Not too much left, hoping for a good result with the Formby's. Lowes, the one place I didn't check stocks it.

Can't wait for the after photos. I have a lead on a five drawer wood one that photos indicate similar condition. I would love to find a waist high metal one but no luck yet.

The big, multi-drawer steel ones are the way to go, as long as you have the floor space!

A mate of mine who is a SERIOUS cartridge collector has a couple of them for his collection. In the bottom of each drawer is a sheet of corrugated cardboard, "groovy" side up. This has been sprayed with the stuff artists use for "sealing" charcoal sketches and the like. This prevents any residual acid from the manufacture of the cardboard making the brass cases go "green", and acts to stiffen the cardboard under the weight of the ammo.

The only problem is that these cabinets are heavy; then again, you will have great difficulty over-filling one and the better ones have ball-bearings in the telescoping steel runners. Most are BIG, (A0 size) so you need a bit of floor space. You could use the vast expanse of the top of the unit to show off your artillery stuff, (or shooting trophies), I suppose. The basic drawers cabinets are also stackable. (If you put legs under them, watch the point-loading on the floor when you fill them full of brass and lead!)

I have also seen these steel drawer units used for storage of "collectable" handguns, amongst other things. Most places that used these drawer systems for maps, architectural drawings, etc., have changed over to "vertical" plan-hanger units. The big advantage of these is that you are not forever shuffling and unloading (thus damaging) the documents.

Some of the "flat" cabinets have lock systems or, being steel, can easily be fitted with external lock bars etc.

Seek out your local purveyor of "used" office fittings and furniture.

I was busy today and stripped the remaining finish off and coated it with Teak oil, a process I will probably never do again. But it looks nice. Please excuse the surrounding mess. It's not trash, it's bird seed.

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The top did not turn out the way I want it so it will have to be redone at some point. There are half a dozen or so light spots which may be from sanding or just the finish not absorbing the same.

Really nice job!

Outstanding piece. Photos loaded perhaps?

I'm not anywhere near ready to load it yet. I have to clear out the space where it is going and reinforce all the drawers. They need disassembled, refitted and glued and a new back extension put on each one. As they are now, they are out of the groove in the front and nothing in the rear so they can sag if loaded heavily. Probably another all day project setting up specialty tools. If I load it before I do that, I'll never do it.

Could you reinforce the drawers along the outer edge & down the center with tracks & rollers?

The drawers are built pretty heavy as they are. I have no doubt they will hold the weight. It's just that they shrank and the previous owner never addressed the issue. The bottom fits in a groove on the sides and front but not the back. They have all slipped out of the groove in the front. I'm going to move them back in and glue them and add a rear that also has a groove. The bottoms are nearly 1/2 thick poplar. I don't want to alter it too much from original either.

Congratulations! You definitely have a gem. I spent years looking for a map chest for the same purpose. I finally found this in Indianapolis. A downtown architectural firm was moving and this did not fit their new modern decor. I was told it had been with the firm since its beginning. My long blades do lay at an angle but that's ok since I don't want to overload the drawers. Again congrats on an excellent purchase at an excellent price!!!

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That's a nice type also. Never saw one like it before.

VERY classy!

Beats the rubbish sold as "modern" furniture.

Well your inspiration has lead to a purchase. I found a five drawer wooden cabinet ,not as nice as either of the two posted but quite sufficent for my purposes. Now all I have to do is construct a base to support it at a useable height. Before photos to follow.

It's amazing just how heavy a few bayonets are. Beautiful workmanship you blokes restoring those cabinets. A pleasure to see it

Hooked,
Can't wait to see your new treasure!

Yes since you badgered me forever about photo's, where the heck are they???? It's been 24 hours now.

[QUOTE=Aragorn243;338360]Yes since you badgered me forever about photo's, where the heck are they???? It's been 24 hours now.[/QUO

OK ok. Not as bad as it looks (photo from the add that spent some time in my pocket)
Checking with a cabinet shop about building a base. I will try to get some better color photos.

When was that photo taken, 1920?

Sorry black & white no color printer. Photo from the want add. Will get one from this century.

At last I have come along far enough with my project to post a photo I hope is worthy of the copmetition. Gun room / library first wall complete. Constructed using repurposed materials including donated desk as a base for the bayonet (blueprint) cabinet and shelves from an office salvage company. New flooring & track lighting.

Attachment 68263
P.S Several family artifacts displayed.
One grandfathers WWI campaigh hat chord.
Other grandfathers WWII helmet,dress hat & pistol belt.
Brother in laws Vietnam era helmet.
Fathers flag with a postcard to his parents from the PTO WWII.

My project more or less came to a standstill. Outside is done but drawers still need rebuilt. As rough as they are I have about 20 bayonets in one and it has no issues at all with support. I did start working on the old French revolver again but not quite ready to put Patricks advice into play yet. Spent an hour or so on it yesterday waiting for the daughter's new boyfriend to arrive for our first meeting. Never seems to fail that I'm working on some sort of firearm when they arrive, weird how that happens.

No daughters here but I have friends who always seem to be doing somthing firearms related when someone comes a courtn.
I lined the drawers and am playing with the layout. Now the real chore,unloading the safe and moving it in. Trying to build up some points in my "favor bank" to enlist some help for that one.

If you ask me, that's a good idea Aragorn....., to be waiting to meet the daughters new boyfriend....... stood there with a revolver in your hand. Just a subtle way of lettin' him know that you're a caring parent

i use the rust resisting draw liners that are meant for tool cabinets, stops sliding and helps stop corrosion

Short term I installed laminate floor underlament. Here is the result. Any ideas on how to secure the drawers to offer some small measure of security? The only idea I have come up with is drilling thru the entire cabinet verticaly and droping some sort of locking rod thru the drawers. I know this would only delay entry but I want to do something.

what are you supposed to do if the boyfriend goes "nice '16 BSA, but why do you have a siamese pattern '20 with slazenger grips on the front?"

back to the cabinets, hooked, that looks really nice. (but the OCD side of me is screaming 'çause 3 of the bayonets have the mounting ring on the left when all the others are on the right)

have you considered making wooden chairs to sit the bayonets on? if you covered them in flocking they could look rather nice.

flocking: Woodworking Tips - How to Apply Flocking - YouTube

it might look a little over the top, you could cover the laminate in velvet too. if you got really bored you could line the draws with flocked pegboard and put pins on the chairs to fix them in place but allow them to be re-arranged. (btw none of my collections are arranged neatly but you are obviously willing to but in the time)

+1 on the OCD. Very pelimanary on the lining I think I will at least cover the pad with some green felt. I thought about chais of some type but the drawers are very shallow.


what are you supposed to do if the boyfriend goes "nice '16 BSA, but why do you have a siamese pattern '20 with slazenger grips on the front?"

Reply hear is $50 to take said daughter to dinner and "Welcome to the family."

Sadly, this young fellow said that indeed, he does have an interest in knives and has a small collection. He had one with him. A Buck folding knife that the tip was broken off of. I really didn't have the heart to tell him his "girlfriend", my daughter, has an excellent example of said knife among her hunting gear. It did not impress me.

PS: Her older sister and I both have the same model in used but excellent shape.

Buck 110? Someone gave me one for Christmas.

Just a quick comment based on long experience. DO NOT use felt or any other normal cloth as a liner in the drawers. 1. It will soak up any oil or grease and stain the cloth. 2. The cloth will draw moisture if the room it is in has high humidity as in some parts of the country, and this can cause rust. Less of a problem if the material is a polyester material or the like - I know someone who uses an indoor-outdoor carpet with success.

I have two different systems in my storage. For most drawers I do use the non-slip material used in mechanic's tool chests. This also helps keep them from sliding around inside when the drawer is opened and closed. I store many of the "shorter" bayonets in a used mechanic's multi-drawer chest that I got cheap at a garage sale as they fit well in the smaller drawers. To make it look a little better in the room, I covered a lot of the outside of it with wood grain contact paper.

I do have a larger chest much like some of those shown earlier. In some of its drawers I put in wood strips with simple slots. The wood is sealed with two coats of satin polyurethane to keep out moisture and that has worked OK for the last 20 years or so.

Love your M4 bayonet layout. Vary comprehensive...

Nice job, I have a mate who got a similar cabinet from a boatyard where I assume it was used to to store plans, Candle wax is the time proven method of lubricating wooden drawer runners.

Some green or black felt lining would look real nice, I don't know how practical it would be in terms of cost though?

Regards,

To secure the drawers in my steel file cabinet, I bolted a gate hinge to the bottom, drilled through the top where it overhung in the front, and slide a rod through with a padlock to secure the drawers. You could attach a hinge at both top and bottom of your wood cabinet to pass a rod through.

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That setup you've got there Marysdad is just about ideal. :thup:

That looks very nice. been looking for something similar. I have my eye on a draftsman map cabinet. They come with roller bears slides to accommodate the weight. But are metal not a very nice looking wood cabinet as yours.