Remmington 03a3 sniper?

My father was in the Marines and gave me a Remmington 03A3 and it has parkerized metal on everything, it has the original scope mount but a Redfield 4x scope and the stock has been cut, so missing the upper wood and on barrel and about a foot of it on the end. I shot this rifle a few years ago and at 100 yards the bullet holes actually touched each other, he always said it was extremely accurate. I would like to return to original condition with scope, sling, stock and the piece at the very end of stock that I believe is for a bayonet. Anyone know where I could find original stock? I have tried to research it but maybe it's not worth it, anyone know value? I will try to post pictures, if I can figure it out. The stamp is RA 8 43 and model 3415588 which I believe makes it 1 of 28,000? The metal is in great condition.
I tried to research myself and look for stock, but want to make sure do it right, biggest question, is it worth restoring? I mean if the gun is worth only $500 restored when I am done, maybe I keep it the way it is. The local gun shops here are saying it's only worth $250 $300 as it is, of course they haven't seen it, just described it to them. Also how long does the chrome in barrel last or hold up? Sorry I have a lot of questions. Upon further review it may not be chrome barrel. Also the scope mount says redfield on it.

From the serial number it appears you have an M1903-A4 Sniper's rifle (they were all marked 03-A3).
Yes, it is worth restoring but it won't be easy as original A4 parts like stocks are hard to find and expensive.

The small metal items are not too bad.

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Originally Posted by JGaynor

From the serial number it appears you have an M1903-A4 Sniper's rifle (they were all marked 03-A3).
Yes, it is worth restoring but it won't be easy as original A4 parts like stocks are hard to find and expensive.

The small metal items are not too bad.

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l

thx, and i am realizing how hard it is and my biggest challenge is the stock and knowing what are the right markings on a stock. I am just learning it all, would anyone know what its worth like it is?

Attachment 64213Attachment 64214Attachment 64215Attachment 64216Attachment 64217


here are some more pictures

Just to give you a bit of a hand there are two government manuals in the sticky section of this forum:

Here are links:
TM 9-1270 U.S. Rifles, Cal .30, M1903, M1903A1, M1903A3, M1903A4 Sniper
TM9-270 U.S. Rifle, Cal. .30, M1903a4 (Sniper's) Characteristics and Operation

The gray parkerized finish of the bolt suggests the rifle was rebuilt at least once. Restoring a rebuilt rifle is easier than trying to get it back to "factory" issue. Also you have the correct bolt. The bolt is worth $500. all by itself.

Regards,

Jim

I can't tell from the photos or your previous posts, but has the barrel been cut? That can pose a big problem, trying to find an original replacement.

Stocks aren't that bad, but pricey. There are actually two on fleabay now, a C-stock and a Scant. Just search "1903A4". Looks like you have a Scant now, so I would go with that. It is correct for your rebuilt rifle.

How short is the stock now? Grafting a new forend on the butt is a cheaper option, if too much has not been cut off the buttstock.

If the barrel is cut, you could always have a regular A3 barrel installed. Remove the front sight base and have it parked to match. Not correct, but your not hurting the value, and you might learn to live with it until an original passes your way.

Mike

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Originally Posted by Mike D

I can't tell from the photos or your previous posts, but has the barrel been cut? That can pose a big problem, trying to find an original replacement.

Stocks aren't that bad, but pricey. There are actually two on fleabay now, a C-stock and a Scant. Just search "1903A4". Looks like you have a Scant now, so I would go with that. It is correct for your rebuilt rifle.

How short is the stock now? Grafting a new forend on the butt is a cheaper option, if too much has not been cut off the buttstock.

If the barrel is cut, you could always have a regular A3 barrel installed. Remove the front sight base and have it parked to match. Not correct, but your not hurting the value, and you might learn to live with it until an original passes your way.

Mike

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I don't believe the barrel is cut as it looks original to me anyway I will post a picture of the end, I know my father owned the gun since leaving the Marines in the 50's and i know for sure he never put a dime into the rifle other than the redfield scope, so if it is rebuilt, it was done prior to him owning it. Would green parkerized fade to a grayish color over time?

the stock appears to only be cut on the forearm side of gun exposing the barrel and the barrel doesn't appear cut to me.

I don't believe the bolt was rebuilt as it shows signs of wear where the metal is coming through the picture doesn't due it justice as the light makes it look gray but it does match the color of the rest of metal, how else could i tell if it was rebuilt?Attachment 64218Attachment 64219Attachment 64220Attachment 64221

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Originally Posted by JGaynor

Just to give you a bit of a hand there are two government manuals in the sticky section of this forum:

Here are links:
TM 9-1270 U.S. Rifles, Cal .30, M1903, M1903A1, M1903A3, M1903A4 Sniper
TM9-270 U.S. Rifle, Cal. .30, M1903a4 (Sniper's) Characteristics and Operation

The gray parkerized finish of the bolt suggests the rifle was rebuilt at least once. Restoring a rebuilt rifle is easier than trying to get it back to "factory" issue. Also you have the correct bolt. The bolt is worth $500. all by itself.

Regards,

Jim

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thx for the links it will come in handy and for the time to respond. A quality gun stock is hard to find.

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Originally Posted by zadmat

I don't believe the barrel is cut

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It's not.

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Originally Posted by zadmat

I don't believe the bolt was rebuilt as it shows signs of wear

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Naturally, it's been used since the last rebuild. As Jim says the grey park suggests it was rebuilt. Remington bolts were either blued or black parked from the factory, IIRC.

Oh I thought the rebuilds were blued or black when rebuilt on a green parkerized gun? I guess I need to do more research, I always thought a green parkerized gun had all metal match if was original. Thanks

so I thought I should add a little more history of this gun, from what i understand from my father who has now passed, he was issued this while being an officer in the USMC. When he left he told me they gave it to him and he made it sound like they probably shouldn't have. My father and I only went hunting maybe 3 times as he really wasn't a hunter and so the gun sat for many years in a leather gun case which was more like a padded cloth case. He never went shooting with it either, but he told me it was an amazing shooter and he was right. He didn't own but maybe 2 guns and this is the only one he wouldn't part with, and when he did he gave to me. He said the gun was special, but i never inquired more about it and wished I had. Since I have owned it i probably put maybe a box of shells through it, 20 round box, as I don't hunt much either. He was in the service towards the very end of Korean War and never saw any action.

Got pics of the case? Sounds like a Griswold bag. Paratroop use...green, long and square with a zipper down one side?

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

Got pics of the case? Sounds like a Griswold bag. Paratroop use...green, long and square with a zipper down one side?

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Nope don't even know where it went, guessing my father threw it out as I had hard gun case. My father wasn't into collecting and is why the stock is sporterized, he loved the gun because it was extremely accurate, that was only reason.

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Originally Posted by Mike D

I can't tell from the photos or your previous posts, but has the barrel been cut? That can pose a big problem, trying to find an original replacement.

Stocks aren't that bad, but pricey. There are actually two on fleabay now, a C-stock and a Scant. Just search "1903A4". Looks like you have a Scant now, so I would go with that. It is correct for your rebuilt rifle.

How short is the stock now? Grafting a new forend on the butt is a cheaper option, if too much has not been cut off the buttstock.

If the barrel is cut, you could always have a regular A3 barrel installed. Remove the front sight base and have it parked to match. Not correct, but your not hurting the value, and you might learn to live with it until an original passes your way.

Mike

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ZADMAT these are twoo good leads on correct stocks. As Mike points out either would work and they have the advantage of coming with the barrel guard, stock metal and sling. According to my data most of the original rifles in your s/n range would have come with the full pistol grip version ("C") of the Stock, M1903A1. For a hundred bucks I would grab the "C" stock on the buy it now if its do-able. Good stocks are few and far between.

Jim

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Originally Posted by JGaynor

ZADMAT these are twoo good leads on correct stocks. As Mike points out either would work and they have the advantage of coming with the barrel guard, stock metal and sling. According to my data most of the original rifles in your s/n range would have come with the full pistol grip version ("C") of the Stock, M1903A1. For a hundred bucks I would grab the "C" stock on the buy it now if its do-able. Good stocks are few and far between.

Jim

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Thanks Jim and i was wondering about the stock as it appears someone really did a poorly sanding job, i will grab the C stock as i was close already to doing it and saying close enough.

Here is a option if you want it done right

M1903/M1917 | Shuffs Parkerizing

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Originally Posted by Cbinau

Here is a option if you want it done right

M1903/M1917 | Shuffs Parkerizing

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thanks and I guess I am confused, as isn't the gun more valuable the way it is in a used state? The other thing was I was told the bolt has been rebuilt due to it being parkerized as apparently the original gun off the factory floor had a blued bolt? So why would I being doing it right to have it parkerized, maybe I am missing something. Starting to feel it would be better to sell it. I hope this doesn't come across wrong, but i truly have no idea what to do with this gun to be honest.

My biggest problem is I put money in a gun that will sit in a gun safe and the odds of me really shooting it or doing much with it are slim. I do have 3 sons, but that is a problem 3! So unless I take it apart and divvy out the pieces I can't win.

If your not a shooter leave as is, it's a not a low serial so it won't do much to value, if your sentimental refinish and pass down. Just give it to your favorite out of the 3

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Originally Posted by Cbinau

If your not a shooter leave as is, it's a not a low serial so it won't do much to value, if your sentimental refinish and pass down. Just give it to your favorite out of the 3

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HAHA! Favorite son..........you mean the good son?! I was thinking of getting a new unissued stock for $200 with no markings as the one now is worthless, but also wonder if the stocks from Numrich are truly made for my rifle and would it somehow throw off accuracy?

Numerich ones are decent depending on price. Stock has no affect on accuracy unless improperly fitted. As long as it's locked down and no movement you can adjust your sights/optics

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Originally Posted by Cbinau

Numerich ones are decent depending on price. Stock has no affect on accuracy unless improperly fitted. As long as it's locked down and no movement you can adjust your sights/optics

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ok, great I may go that route, thanks for your help.

---------- Post added at 08:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:18 PM ----------

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Originally Posted by Cbinau

Here is a option if you want it done right

M1903/M1917 | Shuffs Parkerizing

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thanks for this tip I may just do it.

Another option would be to get a C stock from the CMP for $165+ $8 shipping. I bought one last month and it looks nice, I just bought a S stock from this afternoon for the same price. This stock is made by Boyds and there are some floating around that were made in Italy.
thanks for this tip I may just do it.[/QUOTE]

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Originally Posted by LJUTIC

Another option would be to get a C stock from the CMP for $165+ $8 shipping. I bought one last month and it looks nice, I just bought a S stock from this afternoon for the same price. This stock is made by Boyds and there are some floating around that were made in Italy.
thanks for this tip I may just do it.

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[/QUOTE]

Thanks and i was on that website a few days ago and couldn't find anything and after your email looked a little closer and found where they actually listed items for sale. That looks like the way to go

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Originally Posted by zadmat

thanks and I guess I am confused, as isn't the gun more valuable the way it is in a used state? The other thing was I was told the bolt has been rebuilt due to it being parkerized as apparently the original gun off the factory floor had a blued bolt? So why would I being doing it right to have it parkerized, maybe I am missing something. Starting to feel it would be better to sell it. I hope this doesn't come across wrong, but i truly have no idea what to do with this gun to be honest.

My biggest problem is I put money in a gun that will sit in a gun safe and the odds of me really shooting it or doing much with it are slim. I do have 3 sons, but that is a problem 3! So unless I take it apart and divvy out the pieces I can't win.

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Yes the gun will be more valuable if as many parts as possible are in the original condition. In the case of the Model M1903A4 they remained in military service for decades and large percentage were rebuilt/refinished at government facilities. So while a completely un-rebuilt example will be at the top of the value pyramid a decent rebuilt rifle is the next best thing.

Having examined the pictures of your rifle I think it would be a bad idea to refinish any of the metal parts.

If you can afford them get an original A4 stock, original ¾" Redfield rings and an original M73B1 Telescopic sight. The total investment will be about $2000. to $2300. But when assembled your rifle will be worth $4,500. +.

You are ahead of most people in that you have the original barreled action and bolt. If its within your means a real restoration would be worthwhile IMO.

Also many of the aftermarket stocks are not notched for the A4 bolt handle. While it may appear to be a simple woodworking project trust me it's not. Most of the home brew conversions look like a dog's breakfast.

Regards,

Jim

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Originally Posted by JGaynor

Yes the gun will be more valuable if as many parts as possible are in the original condition. In the case of the Model M1903A4 they remained in military service for decades and large percentage were rebuilt/refinished at government facilities. So while a completely un-rebuilt example will be at the top of the value pyramid a decent rebuilt rifle is the next best thing.

Having examined the pictures of your rifle I think it would be a bad idea to refinish any of the metal parts.

If you can afford them get an original A4 stock, original ¾" Redfield rings and an original M73B1 Telescopic sight. The total investment will be about $2000. to $2300. But when assembled your rifle will be worth $4,500. +.

You are ahead of most people in that you have the original barreled action and bolt. If its within your means a real restoration would be worthwhile IMO.

Also many of the aftermarket stocks are not notched for the A4 bolt handle. While it may appear to be a simple woodworking project trust me it's not. Most of the home brew conversions look like a dog's breakfast.

Regards,

Jim

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Thanks Jim for chiming in it means a lot and you are right, the end value would be worth it. I may hold on for a while and keep searching, I am afraid of also buying a stock that isn't legit and paying to much and for nothing. I am no expert but am learning. It isn't hurting anything now and maybe fun to start looking and give me something to do. You are right about the stocks not being notch and judging from the butcher job on my stock, which I had no part of, it could end up looking horrible too, I guess. who knows maybe I will luck out and find one at decent price. I really have to find one though that was actually a sniper and has the markings, which I mean stamps? I found one on ebay that had the cutout for bolt for $700 but only like two markings and think it needs to have more, and another one that didn't have any but was did have cut out and said unissued, but don't I have to have the correct marked stock?

nothing wrong with the original finish on that rifle...

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Originally Posted by chuckindenver

nothing wrong with the original finish on that rifle...

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thanks for acknowledging the finish on the rifle, it actually looks better in person, there still is some brown stuff in some of the corners is that maybe some kind of old grease? What is safe to remove it or do i leave it?

leave it.. oil the rifle, find the correct parts.. locate a correct scope..

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Originally Posted by zadmat

thanks for acknowledging the finish on the rifle, it actually looks better in person, there still is some brown stuff in some of the corners is that maybe some kind of old grease? What is safe to remove it or do i leave it?

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Some times that attractive greenish color, at least to me it is attractive, of the metal may be the result of having been originally stored with cosomoline on the metal and which chemicals have a habit of tinting a light grayish parkerized metal to a greenish tint after awhile. Be careful, as using a degreaser or a metal cleaner, such as Acetone on the metal, will instantly return the metal back to that light grayish color it was born with. Ask me about how I know. Using a gun oil should be ok to clean that grease. Ray

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Originally Posted by rayg

Some times that attractive greenish color, at least to me it is attractive, of the metal may be the result of having been originally stored with cosomoline on the metal and which chemicals have a habit of tinting a light grayish parkerized metal to a greenish tint after awhile. Be careful, as using a degreaser or a metal cleaner, such as Acetone on the metal, will instantly return the metal back to that light grayish color it was born with. Ask me about how I know. Using a gun oil should be ok to clean that grease. Ray

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Thanks and I don't plan on using anything on it except oil and never have or had to. I have always tried to keep them oiled, especially since I don't take my guns out often.