Got in my truck the other day, and had no power in my drivers side front door. No locks, no windows, no heated seats, no power windows. All other doors work. Any ideas?
Truck is a 2006 Chevy 2500HD LBZ.
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Got in my truck the other day, and had no power in my drivers side front door. No locks, no windows, no heated seats, no power windows. All other doors work. Any ideas?
Truck is a 2006 Chevy 2500HD LBZ.
Sounds like a relay or fuse.
Yup, check your fuses first after that I'd have a look at the wiring harness between the door and chassis. Wiggle it around some, see if it works when. Bar that start looking at the switch module "the thing all the buttons go into" it might have took a sh,,, or ah, went bad. You'll have to pull the door apart and have a cheap volt meter to really diagnose anything other then a fuse.
My driver side switch is crapping out for the second time in a 2006 F150 crew. There's a sweet spot where the window will operate so if it ain't broke.......
My first thought was a fuse as well, but wouldn't they each have a different fuse? I will have to look into that. My next thought was grounding or harness.Quote:
Originally Posted by HOOKED ON HISTORY
2004 welcome to the club. To many drive thrus I think.Quote:
Originally Posted by WarPig1976
We'll guys, it ended up being the wire harness under the buttons. Picked up a new one on eBay for $65 and everything is back to normal!
Not only do members here solve weapon issues but also automotive repairs now that shows the diversity and helpfulness found here on this web site.......
Yup, weakest link in the chain besides the fuse. They definitely don't make' em like they use to.
As I was reading this thread on New Year's Day, getting ready to head over to my cousin's house for dinner, she called frantically. Her almost-new Whirlpool stove/oven just caught fire. An electrical problem under the stove. (no it wasn't a grease fire in the oven, it was under the oven and she is a stickler for oven cleanliness). She put it out with a fire extinguisher. The unit is only 18 months old. This should never happen. She's here at my house now, moved all the food, etc. to my house for dinner. I told her to call the building inspector in the morning and have them do a forensic analysis of the problem. And then call Whirlpool and have them make good on a new stove. Underwriter's Laboratory should also be called on this one. A product recall may be? Lucky she didn't have a house fire! What a way to start the New Year. I'm happy with my old appliances, my 1993 Buick wagon, 1960s Craftsman tools, antique furniture (some of it is 300 years old), 50 year old boat, and WWI & II guns. The "Cheapening of Everything" in America is a real bummer -- its what's happened with because of Walmart and China. It's to the point that I won't buy a Chinese product if I can avoid it. Two years ago the fuel pump went in my other car. Took it in to be repaired. Cost $250 for the repair. Two days later the car wouldn't run. Towed it back to the repair shop. Fuel pump died -- Made in China. Had to be ripped out at the repair shop's cost. Told them NEVER to put another Chinese part in my car again. I'll bet your wiring harness was made in China too. GM, on their way to bankruptcy, outsourced enormous amounts of Chinese parts. Enough of this rant. Happy New Year All!
Designed obsolescence is a bacic factor designed into most products today. That combined with almost complete lack of quality control on Chinese products and sub assemblies on everything from autos to appliances is quite depressing. I have had appliances that I inherited that lasted 35 years only to be replaced with ones that cost eight times as much and lasted only five or six years. Can't count the number of bearings and other auto parts that lasted weeks or did not work at all. Have some other thoughts which i will not express in deferance to the no politics rule. One bright spot is that most firearms today
have not fallen prey to the profit first & only mentality.
I drive a tractor that cost right around $150K. In the first month the engine cooked itself to death in about 15 seconds before I could safely pull off the roadway. Needed a brand new $25,000 dollar engine with less then 10K on the clock! Next the turbo a few months later, which was the original bolted onto the new engine. Peterbilt had to eat it. Has a wicked pair of airhorns though.
On the other end of the spectrum I was operating a 160 Tonne Leibherr crane I was going to a job and noticed grey wispy smoke out of the left stack, I got on the 2 way to base and was informed to nurse it to the site (120 klms away!) well I got a klik down the road and that grey smoke started to go black right now I thought this thing is gonna start to diesel and that motor would be toast and handgrenade (God knows what it would be worth the crane was $1.5 million second hand!)
I managed to get to a servo and park up as the smoke got to a soot black luckily the engine turned off (Being an auto stalling it out would not happen?) 2 things came to light the impeller has sh*t the tin luckily for the company none had got into the inter-cooler down side none were in Aus the unit had to be air freighted from Germany.
One thing on the stove if it is a recall as faulty fine but also who installed the item just a thing I would investigate as part of finding what is at fault....I am glad your sister is safe and had a fire extinguisher handy we have them in our house and fire blankets I have trained my family how to use both correctly.
But I will say do not use a DCP extinguisher on a fat fire you will only blow it everywhere besides it requires a specific type to put a fat fire out, use a fire blanket if that's not happening then use a damp towel not dripping wet as the fat will just explode on you when the water gets into the hot fat and turns to steam (Water when turning to steam expands 1500 times by volume)
Let it cool right off cold before removing the towel/blanket as re-ignition of a hot item is always on the cards.
No, the only way would be to choke the intake with a jacket or your shirt.Quote:
Originally Posted by CINDERS
It was twin turbo'ed WP and to get to the engine bay to the air cleaners required me to raise the boom to remove the top cover which even though the upper has its own power the time it takes getting it in the air the dam lower deck engine would have drained the sump and disintegrated the engine in no short order the company was very lucky and I was bullet proof as having received a directive from the owner to push on.