Grease for Enfields?

I have a question that has probably been gone over before but can't find anything in the old posts. I have 3 No.4s, a No.5 and a No.1 Enfield and I have a question about grease under the wood. None of my rifles had grease on them when I got them. I only shoot at the range in good weather. Was wondering if I should put grease on them? Also do you have to keep stripping them down to put on new grease after shooting because the barrel gets hot, or is once good? I also read that you shouldn't take them apart if you don't have to. Thanks for the help.

That's a great Q yooper. I just wish everyone would do what you're suggesting. Where the rifle is covered by the wood the steel should be lathered in GREASE. XG-279. What the commercial equivalent of this grease is I'm not sure BUT I read somewhere that it is almost the same as wheel bearing grease. Someone come in and correct me..., please!

It will last years under the wood. But in real extremes..... and I mean tropical monsoon weather, you should keep an eye on it annually by releasing the handguard to see that all is well, just as we had to in Malaya. The barrel will get hot but you'll have to go some to melt the grease.

As for taking your rifles apart.............. Oh don't get me going. Why o' why do they keep taking the stuff apart. I can't remember the last time any of mine came apart. If you put it together greased, then leave it be. It ain't broke so don't fix it. There, that's my second rant of the day so I'm happy!

Thanks for the answer. I saw something that lithium bearing grease N.L.G.I. #2 will work. Was looking at this also. Grease Automotive Artillery G 403 Military GAA 1 75 lbs Can USA Sulflo | eBay

There was a thread a couple of years ago, (?), here about the commercial equivalent of XG279. Maybe someone more computer literate than I can dredge it up.

I found a post about bearing grease XG-279, NATO code G-403, lithium grease NLGI no.2 but I can't find any on line. Found NATO code g-403 on eBay. Seems like a lot of grease for my needs. I can find bearing grease NLGI no.2 on line.

G-403 All purpose grease, US Spec = MIL-PRF-10924H British Spec DEF STAN 91-27 = XG-279

All oil companies have there own name for a particular product, some numbers are similar or the same depending on the product, I,ve used most of the big names, Shell, Esso, Exxon, chevron, BP.....

I,ve been on ships that have used 3 different suppliers of the same product over time.

Found this below regarding NATO numbers.


https://www.shell.com/content/dam/sh...cnatospecs.pdf

So any NLGI No. 2 grease should be to the same standard? I don't use grease very often.

This post may help: https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=38663

I saw that post but I didn't see anybody answer if NGLI No.2 was to the same standard as NATO code G-403. If it will work I will buy bearing grease. If someone knows please comment on this, I don't think I need almost 2 lbs of grease. Thanks. I guess my question is, is all NGLI No.2 grease the same whether it has a Mil or NATO number?

How about the old method of mineral jelly or in hotter climates 2/3 mineral jelly and 1/3 beeswax? I think every household has a tub of Vaseline.

I use lanolin based CRC LanoCote Natural grease.

The CRC website states LanoCote is "an environmentally friendly product which exhibits superior corrosion protection and anti-seize properties. It offers outstanding, long-lasting protection in harsh conditions without compromising treated materials or harming the environment.

Blended from lanolin, CRC LanoCote is non-toxic, non-carcinogenic and biodegradable.

Lanolin is naturally hydrophobic (water-repellant) and due to its affinity to metals, CRC LanoCote forms a highly effective moisture barrier on surfaces, stays flexible and does not dry out or wash off."

It is good stuff, I can highly recommend it.

On the other hand, you could simply use the same XG-279 that the British, Canadian, Aust , NZ and every other Army on the planet have been using since the year dot. It's approved for tropical climes, arctic conditions and as a simple easily removed waterproofing for beach landings. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mr.e moose

How about the old method of mineral jelly or in hotter climates 2/3 mineral jelly and 1/3 beeswax? I think every household has a tub of Vaseline.

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I found this formula (actually 50/50 mix) in an old Enfield Armourer's manual from 1930s. I've used it extensively on the wood-to-metal interface to prevent rust on barrels. With all the chemicals in today's gun oil, wood rot is a worry over the long term (see references to M1s on CMP). This formula helps wood from rotting as well as metal from rusting. But I wouldn't use it as a substitute for grease. The old gun adage "if it slides, grease it; if it rotates, oil it" probably still prevails.

(As a note: The 50/50 Vaseline/Beeswax is marvelous for use on old wooden drawers in antique furniture -- makes them slide beautifully)

Thanks for all the help. I ordered the Nato code G-403 off eBay. Figured I'd use the right grease, should have enough to last my life time. It doesn't say XG-279 but has the right Nato code. Thanks again everyone.

You've restored my faith in the common sensibilities of gun owners Yooper collector. The UK Military have been more than happy with it for many years - from a Mini Cooper collector!

I got my first Enfield less than 1 1/2 years ago, now I have 5, might as well treat them right. When you go to experts for advice you should listen to them.

Yoopers is getting the Enfielditis infection we warn so many people about 1 always leads to another and so on it goes................there is just no cure really! :madsmile::lol:
I was forced to stop after getting a Sniper "T" as the Minister for War and Finance when they saw the dent in the bank balance brought allot of Arty to bear so I now reside in a foxhole! Sometimes they never see the intrinsic value or beauty in the things we collect.

I'm certainly no expert Yooper cooper! But I know and see the effort that goes into the research before we put info in the Armourers bible, the EMER's and just relate that to the flock. No use re-inventing the wheel!

And while we're here, can I suggest to every forumer that you slather the stuff over all the metal parts that touch, bear or are covered by the wood. That includes the butt sockets, stock bolts, L1A1 rifle return spring tubes, Bren, the same, carrying handle internals etc etc. We used to use an old paintbrush dobbed into the tin.

Peter,

My local suppliers can't find the actual XG -279, Or the same NATO code G 403, but I did find Castrol Braycote, which says qualified to meet NATO code G 403, so will use that!

Best as always..

Richard.

Drop their technical place at Swindon a line. We used to go there for lectures. The chemistry of it all was a bit too yawn-yawn for a more physics minded nerd like me. But interesting. While I was involved in a mod-sports racing team (I was the engine and transmission builder - or should I say, RE-builder) I used to speak to the technical bods quite regularly as they used to give us modified diff lubricants to use/try

Got finished greasing up my Enfields today. They looked pretty good except the stock bolt on my Savage No.4, it had some rust. Thanks again for all the input.

If you saw the stock bolts from No5 rifles and the return spring tubes from L1A1's and Brens used in the jungle, I'm sure you'd think yours got away lightly

Peter,
I had one of the Siamese contract rifles one time.
Looked like it'd lived in a greenhouse.
some like the inner band screw were half eaten away.
Not so much pitted as eaten.
That old rifle would make nice profile shaped bullet holes at about 150 yards!

No I didn't keep it.

The tropics are not kind to weapons.