Fitting a barrel to a #1 mk3

First of all "Hello" to everybody on this forum from the state of Alabama, USA. This is my first post here even though I have been a member for a while. Here's where I'm at, I have experience barreling Mauser type actions, have re-barreled some M-1 Carbines, but haven't done an Enfield.

I have a #1 Mk3 action, and have found a decent barrel for it. What are some of the pitfalls, tips, advice etc. that I will need to mate these two pieces? This is a take-off barrel with all the parts still on it, and would love to get this action back into action(pardon the pun). Any guidance from the group would be greatly appreciated. And again it's great to be a member here. Thanks

RJ

The very first piece of advice is this. Unless you have the CORRECT equipment for this operation, then don't even try. It is simplicity itself to bend or distort the body if you don't use the right kit. And when that happens, it's impossible to get it back. The same applies to your local 'gunsmith', most of whom, in my opinion are........... I'll leave my opinions there!

It's got to be done properly by an expert who has experience. I'd suggest that you pack the two bits up and send/take them to someone who knows what he's doing. Barrel fitting isn't a simple case of unscrewing one and screwing in another.............. Well, it is......... but there's a whole LOT more to it than that. If you need an expert to do the job, I know one in SC who might help

The body/receiver is not as strong as most Mauser type actions. It takes very little to bend it. You will need the right barrel vice and action wrench or it’s going to bend for sure. If you are just doing one, it’s cheaper to have someone like Brian Dick do it than buying the vice and wrench.

Another option is to buy a sporter with a good barrel and swap the wood, etc. They can be had for a lot less than the vice and action wrench.

Agreed, Brian Dick is close enough to you to be easy to deal with. Message him and get on with it.

Yes, I agree that the receiver of the #1 is different from the others I have dealt with before. I already am set up with a proper barrel vise, action wrench, very secure holding set-up etc. I have already removed the old barrel from this action after the usual soaking in penetrant oil for two days, and warming of the receiver with a heat gun prior to "un-screwing". Even with it being a pre-1920 gun, the two parts parted ways very easily(compared to some I have done in the past). I have cleaned the threads and checked for burs, rough spots, roundness etc. Everything thing was looking good. I was going to start on it this long weekend, and wanted to throw it out there for you guys to give me your two cents worth. I may have to call Brian and see what his schedule looks like. Then, a road trip to SC would be a nice little excursion! I do love certain parts of the state, been there lots of times(Beaufort being the last) Thanks guys, appreciate the help!

RJ

As long as the barrel turns to TDC without incident or over crushing then you're fine. If you're prepared for extra effort if it is a problem and can imagine those issues, then you should be OK too. Then headspace and fitment of a bolt...and woodwork...

Surface plate to ensure exact alignment of the body to the barrel/sights........

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Peter Laidler

Surface plate to ensure exact alignment

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Yup, like I say...nothing too it...

RJ,
I suspect you know this already but just in case; One important difference between a Mauser and an SMLE is that when fully tightened, the shoulder of the SMLE barrel does not actually touch the front of the receiver. The end of the barrel bears against the inside flange.

Thanks Steve, I was thinking that was the case, but glad you let me know! I love the way everybody's willing to help one another. Thanks again!

RJ

Removing a barrel from a No1 always seemed a breeze compared with a No4.....

I always understood that SMLEs breech internally (at the rear of the threaded tenon of the barrel) as does the Mauser 98 (when it left the factory with its original, Whitworth-threaded barrel), whereas the No4 breeches on the front of the receiver / body ring.

This is, apparently, why you will sometimes see a tiny amount of "daylight" between a SMLE body and the barrel Knox form.

Never had many problems removing barrels from No1 / SMLE types unless there was a ludicrous amount of rust present, with all that may signify. Biggest drama has been finding decent replacement items.

Next "issue" is scrabbling through the bolt-head collection to find one that will provide both acceptable headspace AND alignment to the bolt body.

This is on top of assuming that the body itself has not been flogged so hard that the "load-bearing" surfaces on the locking shoulders are worn beyond spec.

Removing No4 (and P-14) barrels can provide many opportunities for exercising certain "colourful" parts of the vocabulary.

A serious set of tooling is essential.

"Removing No4 (and P-14) barrels can provide many opportunities for exercising certain "colourful" parts of the vocabulary.

A serious set of tooling is essential.[/QUOTE]

I pulled an Eddystone P14 barrel the other night and Holy Moses was it tight. In the end i took the releif cut then it was no drama, and still plenty of oil on the threads and interface... just TIGHT mate...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tbonesmith

"Removing No4 (and P-14) barrels can provide many opportunities for exercising certain "colourful" parts of the vocabulary.

A serious set of tooling is essential.

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I pulled an Eddystone P14 barrel the other night and Holy Moses was it tight. In the end i took the releif cut then it was no drama, and still plenty of oil on the threads and interface... just TIGHT mate...[/QUOTE]

It wasn't mine then?

When the barrel and receiver are originally breached up, they are tightened until the barrel indexes. I've never pulled a No4 barrel, but then the instruction for that is to take the relief cut out of the bit you don't want and it's easy from there. As noted above, the SMLE barrel locks to the inside face and cannot be relieved to make it easy. I have come across some absolute mongrels to remove, but have never failed or damaged a receiver or barrel either. My point here is, when breaching up a new barrel, it will usually index and be tight. Occasionally, using a pull off barrel and used receiver, a barrel will turn past clocking before it is tight. I think in these cases probably both had been very tight before and left the threads stretched so the parts. I found a supply of shims years ago for dealing with this. They came in two sizes, .002" and .005". I have had a couple that needed the .005" that couldn't be head spaced afterwards with available bolt heads, so at that you may be looking at needing a different barrel or setting it back a thread ( or more accurately, .005" less than one thread pitch) then re chambering.
Problem is, my supply of shims ran out. I have not been able to find more, but might have a substitute, yet to be confirmed.

Anyway, just some ramblings to add weight to the discussions on how complex the job can be...

Son,
I've gotten shims of various thicknesses from an industrial supply house. 5/8" inside diameter is about right and the outer can be carefully trimmed with a pair of good scissors. I imagine something like this would be available in your part of the world also.

McMaster-Carr

I have recently found some hardened muzzle brake shims are very close to the same OD, and a bare fraction larger in ID. It does give them a fractionally smaller surface contact area... And I haven't tried to fit one yet, but only after use and checking will I be able to be sure it isn't a concern. The sizes of the smaller ones are stated as .006" and .004" nominal, so that should be workable.
I suppose if a barrel was torqued up with one of them and then became loose over time/ use, that would be the only way to know.