The front handguard is loose on my Garand. How does this effect accuracy, if at all? Can it/ should it be tightened up and if so, how best accomplished? Thanks.......:confused:
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The front handguard is loose on my Garand. How does this effect accuracy, if at all? Can it/ should it be tightened up and if so, how best accomplished? Thanks.......:confused:
The front handguard should have some slack in it. When the barrel gets heated up during firing the slack noticeable decreases. Battering doing the manual of arms can cause the guard to really loosen up over time. One suggestion I've seen is to put some silicone in the lower band and let it harden, then reinstall the front handguard. Of course this will make the weapon illegal under JCG match rules.
Absolutely it makes a difference. So does a loose gas cylinder.
I have been working on a rack grade HRA Garand.
All components on the HRA rifle are original, except for the bolt and operating rod which CMP switched to keep the rifle from being all correct.
The barrel and receiver, and internal parts, have no wear, outside of scuff marks.
I replaced the SA bolt and operating rod with HRA parts and shot the rifle. It was so-so.
I went home and peened the upper band around the upper handguard end. That tightened that a bit.
I also peened the gas cylinder splines on the barrel. I consider a tight gas cylinder accuracy critical. I was shooting at 500 yards with my match Garand, and the thing would barely hold the ten ring. When I got home the gas cylinder had movement, even though the gas lock screw was tight. I peened the splines and glued the gas cylinder on. That tightened the groups up. I believe this rifle will hold half the ten ring of the 600 yard reduced target, if only I shoot it well enough. Still a recent 195-7X is good enough to show that it is still working.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...dSFProne-1.jpg
I shot the HRA with the tightened gas cylinder and it is grouping better. I did notice shooting prone with a sling, that my groups were moving vertically on the target. The upper handguard was moving. Pushing the handguard back changed the elevation back to an earlier setting.
So handguard movement must make a difference.
Here's a very simple, quick fix if you have a loose handguard that bothers you. It's not permanent, it's not messy, it won't harm or damage wood or metal, it's quickly removed if needed, and it will not effect accuracy under most shooting situations. 600yds or more,yes maybe,but then that all depends on how "tight" you make it. A small tab of foam tape barely exerts any psi on the handguard,its like a sponge,just enough to keep it from rattling. If things swell up with heat,it easily compresses,and heat does not effect it.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...36823081-1.jpg
Ok,so how do you get a picture on here? I inserted the link into the "insert image" box.:surrender:
Oh the good ole days........when things were simple.
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I used book matches.
Why do you think the CMP would waste time swapping parts make to make a rifle intentionally incorrect?Quote:
Originally Posted by slamfire1
Ironically some very early HRA's actually were made with Springfield bolts and oprods.
This issue ought to be a separate thread, not buried down here.Quote:
Why do you think the CMP would waste time swapping parts make to make a rifle intentionally incorrect?
Ironically some very early HRA's actually were made with Springfield bolts and oprods.
But the short answer is to ensure that people who pay an extra $350.00 for an all Correct collector Grade won't complain when someone walks out with an all correct rifle at a rack grade price.
I use a thin high temp o ring on the barrel between the gas cylinder and the hand guard works great learned this from a old gun smith at the range.
If you do your own barrels he showed me a easy way to swage the barrel for - index this also workes great and cheap to do
Quote:
Originally Posted by gary
I'll bite what is the easy way to swage the barrel. I'm always looking for better ways to do things with these garands.
Jeff