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The smith that had my 223 No. 4 project in the line for the last 7 months just up and died on me. Two questions!!
1. Anyone know a smith in CA that can remove a barrel and has the gear and experience to turn down diameter, thread , recrown and fit and headspace a new barrel?
ORRRR.....
2. If I can get the barrel removed, is the above work on a new barrel something that care and attention and a decent lathe set up can get done???
Do you now have possession of it? If not, I hope you have a numbered claim ticket. Your situation can sometimes become a sticky wicket.
Well, beyond what Johnny pointed out...yes if you know how to operate a lathe and all the fine points, if you have gunsmith skills...you can do it your self. Nothing to it. Well, you'll need some headspace gauges, chamber ream...barrel wrenches and vise...you will likely want to drill and tap for sight screws. You'll need to blue it after too...maybe do the woodwork.
Just a couple things, but yes it can be done.
Quote:
Originally Posted by newcastle
The basics yep easy to do, if you can use a lathe and can cut threads ? to remove the barrel if its a scrapper then just put a relief cut on the old barrel as close to the body as you can with the parting tool.
Proceed with caution here, if you have a spider chuck or similar then straight forward, if not then use the tail stock with revolving centre, strip bolt down re fit the bolt head and replace bolt back in body. stick a cable tie or similar around bolt handle to secure it and stop any movement.
Place barrel through chuck and offer up the tail stock to rear of the bolt and your ready to make the cut, (you may need a fixed steady also). sounds a lot of work but will save a lot of sweat and tears and colourful language.
There is a link below on a barrel I did a few years back scroll down to part 5, I recycled an old Target rifle barrel in 7.62mm .... for ease regarding the head space etc then I would suggest something similar and use a collar (like a modern Savage uses).
https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=22049&page=2
I would highly recommend the following book, "The complete illustrated guide to precision rifle barrel fitting" by John L Hinnant
You can do it with a hack saw by chucking up the barrel/receiver alone and just carefully sawing around the barrel in front of the barrel ring. Grab the barrel and save stripping the bolt. I've done it many times in the vise too. Just within a 1/4" of the barrel ring and you can unscrew by hand...same end.Quote:
Originally Posted by bigduke6
Yes I have the stuff back. Smith's son helped me out there. Getting barrel off doesn't seem to be an issue as the bore is toast, the cutting and and turning lathing etc is the interesting / challenging part
It's not that bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by newcastle
What is the thread on a No.1 barrel anyway? The smith had done it before so he knew andha dteh stuff needed. I assume the threading can't be done by hand?
You are correct...Quote:
Originally Posted by newcastle
I have removed a few No 4 barrels with the shoulder cut method. You do not need a lath, in fact I used a small hobbyist metal saw blade and did it by hand. it takes a while to get the cut started and you have to do it carefully to make sure you maintain a small amount of metal on the barrel between it and the action, it is really pretty easy. The barrels were pretty soft any cut easily. Once the cut was deep enough a few hits with a hammer and the barrel(s) came off by hand.
You can also use a modeler knife to peel back the metal flange created between the front of the action body and cut, with the caveat you have to be sure the cut is deep enough. Works fine with a little Kriol to help.
There is a slight difference between a No1 and No4 barrel, think Bruce in Oz had a few drawings ? 1" x 14 TPI whitworth (55 degree thread angle) I say an inch but think its around .997"Quote:
Originally Posted by newcastle
If you follow the steps in the link I posted you can't go wrong, just remember the pictures don't show the tail stock with the revolving centre. (practise makes perfect)
And if undercut with a suitably thin parting tool as close to the rear face as possible, then the removed barrel can be cleaned up, and with a breeching washer made and fitted, be used again.
Given the variations in distance of the action face from the threads, the washer is the only way, other than swapping barrels or removing metal from the barrel shoulder, to get the proper position of the barrel when hand-tight.
Someone else will have to tell us what that correct position is, but about 1/2-3/4" of rotation IIIRC.