Bought a 1903 Turkish Mauser

I bought a 1903 Turkish Mauser yesterday. It was manufactured in 1937 and has a 29.5" barrel.

It's in rough shape, and costed me around $175. It has the cleaning rod, and comes with a sling. The guy I bought it from says it fires and loads okay. I tried loading it when I got home (didn't have any 8mm ammo on me. And yes, this one was modified to be 8mm by the Turks.) and I had a problem.. The bullets wouldn't feed.

We could feed a single bullet no problem, but more than that and it'd be difficult. To the point we had to get a screw driver and fiddle with the bullets. I'm slightly annoyed, but the gun looked okay to me. Hoping it's just a weak spring? The stock appeared to be okay, and I seen no visible rust.. But I couldn't get the floorplate out of the trigger guard, so naturally I just took the trigger guard off. And I seen rust mixed with rotten wood. I began to field strip the rifle and I found more of the same. My observation is the stock will probably need replaced eventually. Although I think it's okay for now.

But, the bolt cycles flawlessly and easily. The safety flips without a problem. And the iron sights look okay, although i'm missing the front sight hood. I'm guessing the previous owner did nothing but routine maintenance on the gun, since all the visible areas are pristine.

So basically my problems: floorplate won't release. I think it's a push pin and then push on the plate and slide it towards the trigger type release. But my guess, it's rusted shut. So soak it in WD-40?

And the follower won't feed the bullets properly. It's like they get jammed in the mag, so the bolt can't even catch them. Weak spring? Or perhaps the spring was re-bent some one who doesn't know better?

Also, here's a couple pics of the rifle. Not the best, but all I have is my cell.
Attachment 79123 Trigger guard pins
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Attachment 79125 The part of the stock where the trigger guard inserts
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It's a bit hard to tell, but some of that may just be grease in the stock. I'd try to wipe it up and see what happens. My big concern would be getting that action out of the stock to see how bad it is under the wood line. I think the rust looks worse in the pictures than it perhaps is due to it being a mix of rust and dirt and dust suspended in grease but you'll only know for sure once you begin to clean it up and see the pitting underneath. The one spot that sticks out to me as something to really look over is on the front left side of the receiver ring.

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Originally Posted by cipherk98

It's a bit hard to tell, but some of that may just be grease in the stock. I'd try to wipe it up and see what happens. My big concern would be getting that action out of the stock to see how bad it is under the wood line. I think the rust looks worse in the pictures than it perhaps is due to it being a mix of rust and dirt and dust suspended in grease but you'll only know for sure once you begin to clean it up and see the pitting underneath. The one spot that sticks out to me as something to really look over is on the front left side of the receiver ring.

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I took a look and there appears to be a good deal of rust. I'll post pictures soon, but there is some bad pitting... Hopefully it will be visible in the pictures. The pitting is noticeable, but I think the gun is still safe to shoot. The inside of the barrel is good, just the outside is rusted.

The spring looks correct from here. I agree about the goop being grease, could be axle grease which isn't even close to the right stuff. I'd put the trigger group together on the rifle and smack it with a nylon hammer. It'll release. The follower could be bent so your rifle doesn't feed, can't see... There's a thread currently about restoring a find like this...worth a look. He's going through what you will be. https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=59252

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Here's some photos of the gun taken apart. For some reason the stock has holes drilled in it? They're all connected and I think it may be some sort of drain for water perhaps? The barrel isn't drilled or anything.

Any opinions on the safety of this gun would be appreciated...

Never saw holes drilled like that. they are connected because that is the channel for the cleaning rod. I expect the rifle is fine to shoot. I've seen rust that was a lot worse than that and the stock looks fine also.

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Originally Posted by Aragorn243

Never saw holes drilled like that. they are connected because that is the channel for the cleaning rod. I expect the rifle is fine to shoot. I've seen rust that was a lot worse than that and the stock looks fine also.

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You can't tell it in the picture, but the stock is actually acting like it's wet... and the inside is mostly crumbling, hopefully it's just on the surface. The stock is incredibly brittle for some reason.

Also, how's the electrolyte bath working? I read your thread, and it may be what I do. But I'm thinking i'll do a vinegar bath first. Which is really just 1/2 vinegar, 1/2 water and you soak it for a few hours. You need to scrub/wipe the rust off after (depending how long you soak it) and you need to neutralize the vinegar with baking soda/water mixture. But It's easier for me since I have vinegar on hand. Just need a pan to put the barrel in to soak it. I'm currently only soaking the trigger guard. I don't think my gun really NEEDS an electrolyte bath though, it's not as bad as yours was Aragorn :P

Holes were drilled to get cleaning rod out at one time. some one pushed it in to far an then had to drill to find end. saw it one time before on an old Springfield

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Originally Posted by mmppres

Holes were drilled to get cleaning rod out at one time. some one pushed it in to far an then had to drill to find end. saw it one time before on an old Springfield

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Oh, okay. That would makes sense haha. Thanks! As long as it's not a big deal i'm not going to worry about it.

Vinegar will strip the bluing off. I wouldn't recommend it. It also tends to turn deep rust into black rust rather than remove it. I've done it before and if you don't care about the bluing, it does work.

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Originally Posted by Aragorn243

Vinegar will strip the bluing off. I wouldn't recommend it. It also tends to turn deep rust into black rust rather than remove it. I've done it before and if you don't care about the bluing, it does work.

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I'm more worried about a working rifle. I don't these Turkish Mausers are super expensive anyway. I plan to re-blue it anyway. Also, electrolysis would remove the bluing wouldn't it?

I wonder if it's oil that has attacked the woodwork? If it acts wet and is crumbling...

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

I wonder if it's oil that has attacked the woodwork? If it acts wet and is crumbling...

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I believe this to be the case. I wiped off the stock where it was crumbling and underneath it's fine. I don't the rifle has been field stripped for quite some time... Also, it's pretty humid in certain times of the year here in Kentucky, so it's possible moisture just built up in the stock and wasn't evaporated. Like if it was in an attic or basement?

I FINALLY got the freaking plate out. I had to punch out two pins that were in the trigger guard. I'll show pictures. I think it really was rusted shut, because even then I had to use a little bit of force in the form of a punch and a rubber hammer. But without the pin blocking the plate, it made it easier. Thanks for the help on this guys! I'm going to reassemble the rifle for now until I can get some more oil.

Also, correct me if i'm wrong.. But the spring ISNT supposed to do that.. Right?

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That plunger is just the mag retainer, it should move. It will after this. Looks like they broke the spring and cobbled it back together...you'll need to source a replacement...a WTB on this forum will likely find something suitable.

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

That plunger is just the mag retainer, it should move. It will after this. Looks like they broke the spring and cobbled it back together...you'll need to source a replacement...a WTB on this forum will likely find something suitable.

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A replacement for the follower spring? Oddly enough, I put the gun back together and it works fine now... Loads and everything with no problem. My guess is it wasn't getting caught on some grease/rust...

And if you're talking about the pin you usually push in to release the mag, then it's not broken. I just punched it out from the top side. The cross pin keeps it from going to low or high.

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Originally Posted by nuget102

it works fine now.

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OK, it's still not going to heal it's self and will give up when you/'d rather it didn't.

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Originally Posted by nuget102

the pin you usually push in to release the mag

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Yes, It was just frozen in place with rust. I get aggressive with them, smack it with a punch and the bottom of the mag plate with the nylon hammer and they'll both move.

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

OK, it's still not going to heal it's self and will give up when you/'d rather it didn't.

Don't worry, I plan to replace the spring. I was confused if you meant the spring was broke or if I somehow broke the pin that releases the floor plate.

Also, how much do the springs tend to go for. From what I see around $5? I'm not sure if there are multiple type springs, I was going to use a 98/m48 style?

Yes, It was just frozen in place with rust. I get aggressive with them, smack it with a punch and the bottom of the mag plate with the nylon hammer and they'll both move.

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Sadly this didn't work, I took out the trigger assembly and had to punch the pins out then smacked the plate from the inside.

I don't think it's worth starting a new thread to ask this, but I was wondering what ammo I can shoot from rifle, if you guys know?

I was thinking about buying this ammo:
Mauser, 8x57mm JS, .323 Bore Non-WWII Dimensions, FMJ, 170 Grain, 20 Rounds - 283126, 8mm Ammo at Sportsman's Guide

I've heard of issues with certain mausers not being able to fire this ammo?

Any input is appreciated. :) Until I know more i'll be shooting some old military surplus my dad has.

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Originally Posted by nuget102

Sadly this didn't work

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It works whatever way it comes apart...now it's good to go.

Older 8mm rifles have a smaller bore than later ones. Some Turk rifles were upgraded, some were not. Depends when yours was "made" or rearsenalled. I believe most Turk rifles were upgraded and it's the 88 commission rifles that are at greater risk of being the older caliber.

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Originally Posted by Aragorn243

88 commission rifles that are at greater risk of being the older caliber

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Which is the old round nose bullet, yes?

All M98 Mauser actions should be fine to shoot the modern .323 dia bullets, even those few which were made in the original Patrone 88 (by 1905 the Patrone 'S' was adopted and all previous M98 rifles should have all been converted to the .323 bore, those few which possible escaped are likely in museums or exceeding rare. Even without the modified bore a early M98 rifle should be fine, it is a M98 and if the Commission 88 could somewhat do it with the smaller bore a M98 would have no issues).

Commission 88s are a whole other story. Basically the action wasn't very strong to begin with (and not having proper proofing and such really didn't help matters), and when updated to the later Patrone 'S' round, all they did was modify the chamber, nothing to do with the bore diameter. These did blow up in Turkish Service as well as German Service, definitely do a ton of research if anyone intends to shoot one.

Time to slug the bore then?

All ways slug bore no matter which or what kind of firearm you plan to shoot. especially if reloading

I wouldn't say there is a real need to slug the bore with a Turkish Mauser. All the 8mm Mauser Turkish M98 rifles are .323 bores or larger. The only other bore size you will encounter with a Turkish M98 Mauser is a .311 dia which was for the 7.65x53 round. It is pretty obvious if it is the earlier round as well since the rifles were configured differently and 8mm Mauser cannot chamber on one of those rifles.