Siamese Contract SMLE Restoration

So, this resto will actually comprise of 2 firearms, the donor firearm that is providing most of the woodwork and several of the screws, as well as the Siamese Contract rifle which is a total mismatch of several timbers. and has some rust on the left side of the receiver ring where someone has stamped a serial number into it with what looks like a center punch and left the metal bare.

im going to try and do it in 3 parts.
The first being the tear down and disassembly of the donor rifle for the woodwork.
The second will be cleaning up and re-stocking the contract rifle.
Thirdly the repair of the mess on the receiver ring of the Siamese contract rifle if its possible/feasible

Good luck with fitting the wood, it may not be that easy but you know that I guess.

The donor rifle (actually a .410 shotty) i bought online off pictures. Its a 1938 Indian conversion of a 1917 Enfield No1Mk3 from .303 to .410 with its usual wooden plug in the magazine well.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...2_110446-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...2_110547-1.jpghttps://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...2_110503-1.jpg

Knowing the metalwork was cactus, the images of the timber looked really good. It was dark and almost semi gloss, like English Wallnut goes when its oil soaked, and the shop i bought it off was sure it was Wallnut as well. It also had no Ishy screw, so my chances were good for it being english, along with the action

Alas, when i got the damn thing, it was not english, it was in fact an ishy stock, pre-ishy screw. And yes the wood was dark but that's only because it had been coated with something that stinks of motor oil and creosote mix used on old fence posts to stop the termites getting into the woodwork.

When i destocked the thing the rear handguard snapped in two with some dry rot. It must have been stored at the bottom of the Ganges as there was mud underneath the barrel and in the trigger mechanism.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...2_111917-1.jpghttps://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...de64e372-1.jpghttps://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...2_111909-1.jpg

The rest of the wood was structurally very good, but i could not get the oily mess off the timber with acetone or lacquer thinner until i scuffed the surface with 180 grit sandpaper to break the grand of the wood, then the acetone would penetrate. its been 4 days now of wiping it over with lacquer thinner. Each day it looks good in the afternoon, then the next afternoon its got black junk seeping from it again so outcomes the lacquer thinner

Metalwork wise, i was able to save the trigger guard, safety assembly, butt plate, stock bolt, trigger guard screws and the entire nose cap assembly. I didn't bother with the sights as they are pinned at 200 meters for the .410 cartridges. All of the parts show Ishy marks on them, so i have ended up with most of the furniture for an ishy rifle, which is kinda neat.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...2_112629-1.jpg

Ill spend a few days working on this timber, the contract rifle should be here next week

Nothing is junk until it's actually junk. Looking forward to the procedure...I know the wood can sure look better.

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

Good luck with fitting the wood, it may not be that easy but you know that I guess.

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Yeah, looking forward to it and dreading it at the same time

Slow and steady, and I think you'll enjoy it as much as I would over all...and of course after.

Some more pics of the wood today, and a couple of cracks that need addressing. It was a bit oily looking this morning, so i wiped it over with lacquer thinner again and sat it down. The last 2 show the black muck seeping out of the wood grain an hour or so after cleaning

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...bb57e2c7-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...ecac2ee1-1.jpghttps://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...5_132659-1.jpghttps://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...5_132706-1.jpghttps://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...5_132720-1.jpghttps://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...5_132754-1.jpg

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Originally Posted by BushyFromOz

The last 2 show the black muck seeping out of the wood grain an hour or so after cleaning

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And so it shall be for a bit, bet you feel very rewarded right now though. Wasn't as bad as you thought was it? It's looking fine. That crack will sort, I'd go as far as acetone inside to clean everything before epoxy, or whatever you use to repair...

It's looking fine as I figured it would.

Yours looks similar to the LSA I'm working on now. The metal looks to be better but the wood and muddy stock look about the same. Looks like a fun project.

Very nice work.
Weathers warming. You have inspires me to look for another project.

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

It's looking fine as I figured it would.

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Its looking a bit better than i expected, but this morning, woodwork has black patches on it again.

The crack on the wrist is on both sides, wondering if i should attempt my first patching job? But i do not know what kind of timber this is or how i would go about matching it.

The other thing is, i figured i would whittle away at collecting enough english wallnut pieces to stock the rifle in that eventually, with this set perhaps going onto a lithgow action i had thought about setting up for range work

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Originally Posted by BushyFromOz

this morning, woodwork has black patches on it again.

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And likely will keep bleeding out for some time.

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Originally Posted by BushyFromOz

what kind of timber

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I take it to be walnut, it's not mohogany...the patching job...there's lots of guys here can coach you.

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

I take it to be walnut, it's not mohogany...the patching job...there's lots of guys here can coach you.

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I have searched the forums quite a lot, have many interesting pics as well as Mr Laidlers articles. I may have a stuffed sporterised fore-end here somewhere to make the patch with, i just don't know where it is

I'm surprised there's not more traffic about the patch job already...Peter's done scads for instance. I'm sure they'll be along.

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

I'm surprised there's not more traffic about the patch job already...Peter's done scads for instance. I'm sure they'll be along.

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i imagine pete is sick of posting the same stuff over and over

Things not being helped though, i do not really have a dedicated work space, but I'm working on it. We just built a rather large garden shed for alll the gardening gear and storage for our 4x4 and camping gear, that will free up a massive amount of sapce. I may even be able to store a vehicle in my garage!

During moving a bunch of junk though, i did find something i forgot i had.

"old army wooden toolbox $40" the sign said when i bought it. Forty Bucks! I'll have that!

**EDIT**
I just finished my dedicated reloading bench tonight, its small but at least functional

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...6_193741-1.jpg

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Originally Posted by BushyFromOz

pete is sick of posting the same stuff

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I agree...and understand.

You say that the crack on the wrist is on both sides. The photo shows the cracked portion on the top and that's a bit confusing from here! Is it cracked on the top AND both sides. That is an EASY fix/cure and is caused by insufficient gap between the butt socket of the rifle and the ledge of the butt in the socket. There MUST be a gap and the butt MUST seat hard in the taper. To fix the split that we can see (thread 7) make sure it's clean and oil free, gently lift the break up as far as you dare and squeeze into it some aircraft quality wood glue (the type approved by the aviation inspectors for home build aircraft) and clamp it up. Then reinforce the patch with oak dowels and it'll never fail again. The broken rear handguard is also a reasonably simple fix too, this time you make new slip patches (the cross patches) from a hardwood/oak. While it's always good to use identical wood and you are taught to while you're apprentices, you have to be realistic out in the real world. While pale oak pegs, dowels and slip patches might not look good while patching a dark fore-end, it's the best real option. The same applies to patching across the grain of the fore-end. Some argue that you should patch with the patch going WITH the grain!!!!! That's all very well with a toe and heel patch but not with a dowel or when you're strengthening a split.

And here's something else you ought to know. Come a bit closer as I don't want everyone to know......... Look at the series about patching Bren butts wot I rit a year or so ago......... got it? See them photos..... and the patches....... the different wood shows the patches clearly but it also shows the brethren of the lodge or forum that a skilled bloke (or sort of nearly up to the grade in my case) has patched it and it's there for good. Go on then Bushy......., what's keeping you?

Thanks for the reply peter.

The crack at the wrist is almost symmetrical on both sides, and cuts though the notch for the safety on the left and that chip in the socket on the rights. So yeah, both sides. I wasn't entirely sure whether you would cut the whole piece out and patch in a new piece of wood and peg it, or lift it, glue it then peg it as it is. I seem to have pictures showing both

The rear hand guard looks like it has dry rot in it, so i think its done

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Originally Posted by Peter Laidler

Look at the series about patching Bren butts wot I rit a year or so ago

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Ooh, i missed that in my search, thanks for the heads up

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Originally Posted by Peter Laidler

Go on then Bushy......., what's keeping you?

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My 2 year old, my wife, "family time", building a pizza oven and the hangover i had after my mates 30'th :yikes:. Also, building a work space so i can do this properly.

It's very unlikely that dry rot has got to the lower handguard when the remainder of the wood was drenched in oily stuff. It MUST be worth removing the retainer spring, degrease the wood, patch it and reassemble properly.

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Originally Posted by Peter Laidler

It's very unlikely that dry rot has got to the lower handguard when the remainder of the wood was drenched in oily stuff. It MUST be worth removing the retainer spring, degrease the wood, patch it and reassemble properly.

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I will have a look at it in any case peter. The lower handguard i suspect is not from this stockset. Very different grain and cross section, possibly sanded thin in the past And may have been glued together before as well. The timber is white and powedry beneath the spring, almost crumbles when touched. I might keep this aside and when the time comes to slip-patch something else, use this as the test bed

So, i counted my chickens before the eggs hatched, the rifle i was going to restore, despite the fact i had paid for it, was withdrawn from sale before ownership was transferred to me. I have been given an absolutely rusted out wreck of a Siamese contract SMLE that i can get for a pittance and turn it into a decent deactivated wall hanger. might be an opportunity for some learning on slow rust bluing and tig welding. Will have to sleep on it. The upside is it will cost SFA and it has a great coachwood fore end on it. If anything, its cheap parts.

Hey......... the glass is half FULL. Even if it's a shot out heap, you've still got a relatively rare rifle for bugger all - an they ain't makin' no more so they're made of unobtanium. You should see the state of some of the old shot out, clapped No32's that are out there.

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Originally Posted by Peter Laidler

Hey......... the glass is half FULL. Even if it's a shot out heap, you've still got a relatively rare rifle for bugger all - an they ain't makin' no more so they're made of unobtanium. You should see the state of some of the old shot out, clapped No32's that are out there.

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That's now the plan, a nice wall hanger for our new house in the future. Also a learning tool for re-bluing some old sporters that belonged to my great grandad. Its still a good project.

But alas, yesterday, i dislocated my left knee, im off my pegs for a few weeks now =(

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Originally Posted by BushyFromOz

But alas, yesterday, i dislocated my left knee, im off my pegs for a few weeks now =(

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OUCH!
Get well soon.