Rough 98K, what to do with it?

Hello all. I purchased this recently and I am somewhat unhappy with the condition. It is an IDF 98k in 7.62 NATO. The previous owner was asking a good price, and he had been using it during his ownership of the rifle, the bore looked good and so I picked it up. Upon further investigation I discovered it is very aggressive pitted below the stock. I am relatively convinced that it is somewhat dangerous to shoot as it is, and so I am asking for some opinions. Would you shoot this rifle? Thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you.

I don't believe the rifle is unsafe to shoot. Matter of fact, I'll bet it's shot more ammo than one can imagine in that state. The bore doesn't look that great, except strong. Looks pitted. I've sure shot worse.

Mikesm44, being conversant with the evils of steel wishing to revert to it's former iron oxide state, I'd suggest you have a cosmetic problem at most.

BAR's comments are fair and helpful.

Suggest if you're real worried, get the barreled action bead (using glass beads) blasted, not garnet/grit blasted and then phosphated (Parkerized in your terms). That'll prevent further degradation and make the whole shebang look a million dollars again. And in the mean time, I'm fairly comfortable that your standard Service Ammo won't cause any distress to the steelwork. I'd recommend limited stress over this one.

But that's just my opinion, its your choice that matters.

Check out this thread:

http://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=43216

Holes for mounting some types of sight bases are deeper then your pitting. Kill the rust though.

Best thing for your piece of mind is to get it checked over by a competent gunsmith. Kill the tin worm though in the mean time!

I agree that the pitting is not a safety issue but it would annoy the hell out of me. I'd be looking to get my money back.

Thanks for the advice guys! A bit to mull over. Yes, pretty unhappy about it but we'll see how things shape up. It's actually accurate. I saw the previous owner shoot nice 3inch groups at 100 yards.

What are the best ways to remove/ arrest the rust?

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Originally Posted by Mikesm44

What are the best ways to remove/ arrest the rust?

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In this case there are only two viable options, Electrolysis or boiling to turn the rust into black oxide. Won't remove blueing and will kill rust in every nook and cranny. Personally I'd go with Electrolysis because there is no doubt all the rust is dead. There's more "moving parts" to a setup but worth gathering and having on hand anyway.

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Originally Posted by WarPig1976

In this case there are only two viable options, Electrolysis or boiling to turn the rust into black oxide. Won't remove blueing and will kill rust in every nook and cranny. Personally I'd go with Electrolysis because there is no doubt all the rust is dead. There's more "moving parts" to a setup but worth gathering and having on hand anyway.

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Very cool. I'll have to look into it. I haven't had a "project" gun in a long time.

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Originally Posted by Aragorn243

Check out this thread:

http://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=43216

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I am glad we are not gunfighters and I am not your opponent.
That is exactly where I was going to refer him.

I have a thread on electrolysis on here somewhere also. Just made a setup and did a Belgian 1889 in it just a few months ago. I wish I had known about it back when I did the Swede in the first thread I posted.

I was assured by about a dozen different fellows that that rifle was fit to fire. Worst case I was told was that gas would vent out through a hole similar to the holes in barrels with gas systems. I wrapped the barrel with paper before firing it, the hot jet would burn right through it if there were a hole. No hole. I did not fire it manually, had a sled with a string. After it passed that, I put it in its stock and fired a 5 shot group. This rifle has at least been fired so I don't think you have any worries.

The hardest thing about an electrolysis bath is finding a correct type battery charger. They apparently don't make them anymore. All new ones are automatic and you need a manual one.

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Originally Posted by Aragorn243

The hardest thing about an electrolysis bath is finding a correct type battery charger. They apparently don't make them anymore. All new ones are automatic and you need a manual one.

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Sorry, I don't agree. I have a 'modern' automatic type charger and I use it heavily for electrolysis. Works a treat.

Give it a go, you'll be impressed. Just set the tank up right (good, high surface anode) plenty of soda in the electrolyte, thick, low resistance cables, good alligator clamps for contact and you're set.

Don't be too concerned about the hype about automatic chargers. A good ammeter and a trickle/boost switch and you have all you need.

I have tried both types of chargers with comparable results. I have found that fresh solution & steel seems to make the process faster.
Did some 1909 bayonets for a friend recently, still amazed at how well it works.

I Parkerized one just like it last year for a Gentleman in Olar, SC who posts here from time to time. Are you out there in forum land Tom? It's not pretty but finished just as the Israelis would have done and functions perfectly.

Thank you all so much! I'm glad to know there is hope for this rifle. Having seen it shoot and having very much wanted one for some time I was very disappointed at the condition. As soon as I get a chance to devote time to this I will start a thread and link this thread into it. Should be within the next month maybe in May if April is very busy.