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I recently acquired a BSA No. 1 MkIII target rifle in remarkable condition and would like to take it to the range. It's marked ".303 Nitro Proof" on the knox form, and I would like to know what current commercial ammunition is recommended.
Cheers,
Carl
All of it. If you're buying then it will all work fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by 230Ball
Although all of it is generally boat tail bullet rounds, as nobody seems to do Mk VII (flat based bullet) ones, grrr...
Commercial ammo is OK to get started but everyone I know with 303 military rifles loads their own, it is the best way to get consistent results. I uses PPU originally and it was quite variable.
230Ball: Until its price leaped to ridiculous levels I used to get good results in all my .303's with Rem-UMC 174 grn FMJ. These bullets are flat based. I found that the rear sight calibrations were pretty close out to the furthest range I get to shoot at- 440 yards. And, of course, save the brass and reload. Even a duffer reloader like me can get good results.
Ridolpho
I'm very happy with S&B 180 grs, FMJBT. Cheap and accurate enough if loaded correctly.
Actually, my Enfields like also a soft nose flat tail, 174 grs I find in bags at my gun store, but it is more expensive and so, getting no real advantage.....
In the UK we need a special licence (at the moment) to purchase soft nose bullets and as non expanding flat base are unobtainable here I have no option but to use boat tail. This bothered me at first especially as my Savage No.4 mk 1* has 2 groove rifling. I needn't have bothered, the boat tail bullets, reloaded by me, work perfectly in both my SMLE MKIII and No.4.
As a Club Secretary and holder of Club firearms and ammunition I keep PPU ammo for members use but they are not as acqurate as my home loads.
The Remington 174 grn FMJ works for me.
Gentlemen,
Many thanks for your expert guidance. I have a small quantity of PPU already; however, it appears from your advice that any serious marksman should reload using "OEM" flat base bullets to maximize the rifle's design.
Cheers,
Carl
I found that the Graf .312 FMJ projectiles seemed to shoot as well as the Sierra 174 HPBT match projectiles, at least in limited tests.
HORNADY 303/7.7MM(.312) 174gr BULLET BTHP 100/BX - Graf Sons
For me a sweet spot was around 2250~2300 fps. The vertical stringing at the short ranges with the conventionally bedded SMLE seemed to disappear. achievable with both IMR4064 and Varget in the 38 to 39 grain range, or around 180 loads per pound of powder
I say seemed as just about the time I was messing with loads that would be just comfortably above transonic at 600 yards I discovered the k31 and , well never went back.
On a non-ammo note, the finish on this rifle is absolutely amazing. Save for a few minor dents it is in remarkable condition. What was (if any) the standard method for wiping down the stock to maintain the finish?
Cheers,
Carl
230Ball: Linseed oil. I believe both raw and boiled have been officially acceptable at different times but I always use raw.
Ridolpho
Hi Ridolpho,
Thanks for the advice! The stock has a nice gloss finish, I'm guessing from commercial production. Will the raw linseed oil dull the sheen?
Thanks again.
Carl
I also use the linseed oil, raw, like Ridolpho.
Standard Army method on Garands and Beretta FAL.
Keeps the wood flexible and naturally shiny.
And smells great......
Each time I shoot I rub the oil on the stock of the rifle after cleaning it, then I look like a fool for the following hours, smelling my hands every few minutes. It stays even after washing repeatedly;-):lol:
230Ball: They can have a nice glossy appearing finish with linseed oil but if something else has previously been used it's hard to say what effect putting linseed on top will have.Quote:
Originally Posted by 230Ball
Ridolpho
No it will not but be aware if it's a varnish or poly finish your wasting your time. It will just sit on the surface and wipe off on your hands and whatever else the rifle touches then whatever didn't rub off will turn gummy over time. If it's a varnish or poly you'd be better served rubbing on some automotive wax.Quote:
Originally Posted by 230Ball
Post some nice closeup in focus pics and I'll tell you what you have.
Thanks Gents for the expert guidance! The finish looks original to me; just that it's in very good shape. Looks like linseed oil is in order!
Cheers,
Carl
Here it is a month later and I finally located some raw linseed oil and gave the rifle a few light applications over the last couple of weeks. Wow! Just another confirmation that nothing beats the old ways, IMO.
Before heading to the range, I would greatly appreciate any recommendations on slings that were used in military (UK) competitions.
Cheers,
Carl
Hi Carl try a Butler Creek I had a friend custom make mine as I have fairly long arms but these will fit the bill for you and are similar to WWII type on use with the Sniper T Butler Creek, Military Rifle Sling, 44, Leather, Brown - 26112 - 043699261123
You could also have a look at what Brownells has...they sell several that are 1907 pattern and made expressly for shooting. http://www.brownells.com/items/rifle-sling.aspxQuote:
Originally Posted by 230Ball
My .303 Br. L-E N°4 MkI* shoots quite well with 174 SMK / N 140 / 40.0 but, considering the present cost of SMK's, I decided to try bulk (500) 174 PPU FMJ. Prior to loading them, I discovered that their weight varied from 172.2 to 174.2, a full 2.0 g !! I then weighted each of them, segregating lots not more than .2 g apart (honestly, I know of more pleasant occupations...). Anyway, I handloaded some ammo, starting at 39.0 to ascertain that my pet load of 40.0 g was still ok with the new bullet. I then burned 5 shots to bring down my sights to POA at 100 meters before settling down and and carefully firing my last 10 rounds. I was pleasantly surprised to recover a 10-shot group of 7,2 cm (2.5 MOA), over issue iron sights ! Weighting lots is a tedious affair but the reward is bullets as good as SMK, at 1/3 of the cost...
http://www.milsurps.com/images/impor...qiws7rfr-1.jpg
About stock care. I mix a recipe received decades ago from an old cabinet maker : 50/50 linseed oil & turpentine + 5% drier. I apply several light coats, rubbed in by hand, letting each coat dry overnight. Final buffing with a soft cloth. I rub in 4-5 coats on a 1st application and afterwards, a single yearly coat for maintenance.
http://www.milsurps.com/images/impor...0qbr7uee-1.jpg
Funnily enough I was told exactly the same recipe as André; it works well, with the turpentine helping the linseed to penetrate the wood, or at least, so I think. It must be genuine turpentine though, not substitute.
Added later - I use terebinth as a drier. It's hard to find here in the UK apart from specialist outlets, but it's available over the counter in supermarkets just over the Channel, so I stock up when over there.
Andre, I had the same issue with Sellier Bellot 180 grain bullets. I bought 500; but by the time I'd weighed them into lots; i wonder if it was not better to just buy the Sierra's. To be fair; once weighed and batched, they do shoot well. Certainly good enough for practice.
Well, seems to be working fine! Very nice finish!!!
---------- Post added at 11:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:24 PM ----------
Concerning S&B 180 gas balls, I weighed my last load and they were almost perfect.
No real difference, nice and steady at 180.
I'll check again next time I'll load .303 or 7,62x54R. Or 7,65x53..........
Gents,
Thank you all for your invaluable responses! It's up to me now to get to the range.
BTW, Andre, that's a beaut!
Cheers,
Carl