M1 Carbine barrel band spring

Hi all, I have a Type III band on my carbine and when I fire it, slides off over the spring. I've tried tightning it to no avil, so I pull out a sanded M1 carbine stock to remove its band spring to swap with my stock. The sanded spring comes out easy, but the spring in the IR stock is virtually frozen. I can twist it back and forth a bit so I know it can move, it just won't come out no matter how hard i whack with a rubber mallet and punch (gingerly enough not to damage the wood of course). What if anything could i put down the hole to loosen the spring?

Hi Snowman, try a soak in break-free or 3in1 work it in by twisting it around. Tap it back and forth to free it up. Brace it and use a small hammer, the rubber mallet has to much bounce. Take your time, you're almost there.

Best Regards.....Frank

When you install the new spring, test it to make sure it is making full use with the barrel band, Some will not fully snap after the band passes over them and the band will work its way off. A small jeweler's file used on the band slot and on the face of the spring will make sure the spring snaps when it is over the band spring. It is better to have a but of slop than to make it too tight. It is not a reflection of a bad carbine, this problem will manifest itself on Winchesters or Inlands even if the spring and band have been on the carbine for 70 years

Thanks DaveHH and frankderrico, I will try the 3 in 1 when I get home. And It's a good little carbine, it was originally in the sanded M2 stock so I moved it to a M1 stock I just got then this problem started. It is a Saginaw if you are interested in that DaveHH.

Setting up the band, the band spring and the handguard along with the tension on the barrel clamp are all related. There is a lot going on in the band area. The band should rest on the shoulder of the stock at the same time the spring snaps to retain it, at the same time the hand guard has no more than 1/16" fore/aft play. Kind of hard to find a carbine these days that is actually set up like it should be and how they were set up in the military. The tension screw has to hold the band in place securely without the two sides of the clamp touching. If the nose of the stock has narrowed, it will have to be steamed to get the width back so the band will fit right. The barrel clamp also should be snug which helps hold the band straight. This will produce more wear on the finish when the band is moved for disassembly, but that's the price.
'The spring won't snap into place': as you can see, there are many reasons why this happens. Is the hand guard preventing the band from going back far enough to rest on the shoulder? Has the spring been fitted to this carbine and band? Is the band bent out of shape at the locking slot?

INLAND44,

I think it is the spring's problem since this isn't the carbine's original stock. I get about three rounds through until the band jumps the retaining spring and slides forward until the handguard falls off, the old stock wouldn't have this problem and I won't tighten the screw completely as you said.

I finally solved this by drilling small hole and putting small wood screw into stock of Inland. The screw directly in front of band will not allow it to pass. Put it in a position that is not noticeable.

Question: Does every “fix” have to be factory perfect?😆

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Originally Posted by TnEngineer

I finally solved this by drilling small hole and putting small wood screw into stock of Inland. The screw directly in front of band will not allow it to pass. Put it in a position that is not noticeable.

Question: Does every “fix” have to be factory perfect?😆

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I see this is your first post. Welcome to the carbine forum. Use the search feature and look up old threads of interest. Lots of imformation here.

I'm not a fan of drilling a stock and adding a screw. At least not a nice stock. Maybe a beater, maybe.

I agree. The snap and barrel band is such a simple and reliable design, I see no point in modifying it like that. The band is sensitive to the tightness of the band screw, but once in place, it should snap in and that problem is solved. Using a small jewelers file solves these problems and can also be used to dress up a damaged or worn extractor or detent. The solution should be solved by taking some metal off the cheap band and not by screwing up the stock which is a very valuable part.

I have found it helpful to 'fix' some U.S. band-springs, like the 1903 Springfield and C.W. muzzle-loaders, with a piece of rubber-band, tied into a couple of knots.

The rubber knot is concealed in the mortise, underneath the metal spring, and increases tension & engagement and dampens vibration.

This simple fix has always worked for me, harms nothing, and is invisible.

I've had to 'file to fit' aftermarket springs to make them work. As a matter of fact, you have to 'make' most aftermarket stuff work!:lol:

I forgot to leave an update for this thread, I eventually did just wiggle it out all the way!