Electrolysis Question

I've done the electrolysis baths so I know how they work but am wondering about putting a knife in there with a wooden handle and brass rivits. Since it's just a mild detergent in there I wouldn't think it would hurt the wood but not sure, also not sure of the brass.

I picked up a pair of USMC Corpsmans knives last night that both have significant rust on them. Probably never issued but stored poorly. The rust continues up between the handles.

I believe with electrolysis they will clean up with pitting in only a couple of areas, one being a lot better than the other.

Anyone with experience with these issues?

The only thing about the wood is absorbing water and then causing the rust to return again, now to blister out from underneath. I removed the scales on one here and reused the rivets and all later...

The brass is ok to run through. I know some Civil War relic hunters clean their brass with electrolysis. Like Jim pointed out your basically soaking the wood in salt water for a few hours so can't be good for metal underneath.

I can't get these rivets out without destroying them. I don't put salt in the bath just washing soda. Maybe that has salt in it?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Aragorn243

Maybe that has salt in it?

---

It does, washing soda is Sodium Carbonate. I use it too, if I don't dry and oil right away the whatever starts to rust immediately.

So you guys think I should just submerge the blade and not the handle?

I can manually remove rust from that area.

I wouldn't submerge the handle. That's where it took the wrong turn originally, the handle got good and wet and held moisture, rusting underneath. You'll never get that out without removing the scales. If you did get it out through liquid process, the scales would now stand proud of the metal leaving a gap.

I don't believe there is much if any rust under scales. They don't appear to have ever been wet. They seem good and tight. Probably just damp air caused blade rust on exposed surfaces. I can't look closely at them right now to verify.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Aragorn243

I can manually remove rust from that area.

---

I would. Plus soaking the scales runs the risk of cracking if they dry out too fast.

OK, no submersion of the handles. I guess I didn't explain it right in the first post. The rust between the handles is just on the surface of the exposed metal between them. Does not appear to go inside and under the wood far but I guess that is possible in small amounts. Handles are bone dry, one looks like the day it was installed, the second has a bit of staining on it, this one does have some rust under the handle as it is the worse of the two. Both are Chatillon NY three rivet knives. For the price I paid, I figure I can restore the two of them and sell one to pay for both and maybe make a decent profit. I already have a four rivet Village Blacksmith version.

Thanks for your help. I did have some concerns with cracking of the wood but never considered new rust forming under them.

How about soaking the handle in BLO after manually removing the rust from the exposed areas? Might prevent the scales from holding moisture and seal that whole end. I just finished repairs on a Vz 24 bayonet and was surprised how much rust was under the scales. Fortunately they were removable.

Photos soon, I moved to Imgur and it works great

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../VGznvPo-1.jpg


https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../wiDLcbh-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../rlPPSxy-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../VUuZCq4-1.jpg

If it were me...I'd be removing those scales and de-rustifying the steel, replace scales and rivets. I know I'd manage it. Matter of fact, send 'em over and I'll get it done. Better yet, bonus me one and I'll clean the other up for you...no? Are they different makers? Is that why you got them both?

Got them both as a package deal. $55 each or $90 for the pair. Not going to pass one of these up for $45 or $35 depending how you look at it.

Good eye! Looking forward to after photos.

I'd have taken them too...don't know what I'd do with them though.

I'm keeping one for sure. The other I will probably list.

Hoping to get them soaking later today. Big yard sale this morning. This is the one I picked up the very rare Argentine bayonet last year at. Stopping at that guy's first.

These two knives came from an indoor yard sale/junk business that mostly sells furniture. I always stop in when I'm nearby because I picked up a Canadian Brodie helmet in there on the cheap when they first opened.

Cleaned up. Spent about 6 hours in the electrolysis bath. Polished slightly with fine emory cloth and then oiled. Put some BLO on the handles. Flash kind of washed a lot out. There is some pitting but the majority of the dark areas are staining without pitting.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../K7VUC6Y-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../soUYZSp-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../FpSKWjD-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../xADz5Ea-1.jpg

So, did you soak them complete or no? I used some miuriatic acid on Q tips a while back on the pits in my Kukri and it worked well. Took long though...

I put them in a bucket with rubber bands holding them vertical and filled up the bucket to just below the handles. The handles did not soak. Manually removed rust from the exposed metal. There is some under the wood but I'm not going to take them apart to get it out. I may spray some PB blaster in there or I'll just oil them good.

A bit of oil maybe...but the wood will still take it.

I coated with heavy BLO but didn't work it in. BLO is a good rust preventative, it's just a messy one. But inside a handle, who cares.

Who cares? How about the guy it busts on when he whacks something with it. Just asking.

You think quarter inch steel is going to break?

Nice outcome.

Just won a scabbard for one of them. Soon be complete.