On fleabay item No. 182771080486 can those with the knowledge look at this and offer their advice.
Why is there a split cross piece! (Pic #4)
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On fleabay item No. 182771080486 can those with the knowledge look at this and offer their advice.
Why is there a split cross piece! (Pic #4)
Your item number doesn't appear to be correct.
Ditto....... Anyone else?
I can only find one and it looks OK. Don't think it's the one. WW2 BRITISH NO.5 JUNGLE CARBINE BAYONET AND ORIGINAL SCABBARD MADE BY SMT | eBay
I wonder if it's this one, one of the ones that had the blade reduced in width? BRITISH No.5 BAYONET, POOLE 1946, MALASIAN SPECIAL FORCES No.5 SCABBARD, FROG | eBay
I thought that these were sold as letter openers, now they appear to be "special forces" equipment?
Sorry guys I stuffed up you have to get onto Ebay/Au site again I apologize just google ebay australia and go from there.
I copied the No. from this thread and it worked.
I just can't seem to get there, can you not copy and paste the address bar up top?
Here you go Jim sorry guys
A bayonet described as a Jungle Carbine Bayonet | eBay
Never seen one marked BSA before plus never seen beech grips on one, but it looks legit.
Looks like a crack in one side of the crosspiece. Dated '75? Makes it an SMG bayonet?
Jim, Absolutely spot on mate...concur with that. The seller probably doesn't know the difference
Thanks chaps by the way I am not the seller just in case I have no idea if they are on the same par value wise.
Those light beech grips were very common to us. But as for that special forces thinned down blade twaddle on the other one....... Where do they get these inventive people from. They must scour la-la land for people who can invent this horse shi....., er horse manure! I think that there was a thread running about these figments of someones vivid imagination some time ago
The cross pieces did break occasionally and if it was just one snap it could be repaired quite easily but if the ring snapped off, it was scrap, even if you had the broken part.
Would it be a case of welding a break/cracked cross piece, Peter, if the break was in the position shown in picture 4?
I can't see where it's cracked in this case but we could and would weld up a broken/cracked crosspiece. Grind out a vee and send it down to the welders. It's just mild steel in any case. Make good and send through the phos and black plant
Isn't this a crack?Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Laidler
That's what I assumed to be the crack, Jim, but there doesn't seem to be much in the way of welding done there.
There is no welding.
It looked to me as if there may be a little welding near the handle but not much.
I'd like to strip it and have a real look.
If that's a crack in that position it'd get the chop. But the GOOD news is that now you could get it cheap and put a new crosspiece onto it - and make a killing. Not literally I hasten to add!
That'd be fine, you have more to cannibalize from...I'm sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Laidler
An alternative to the cross-piece being partially welded near the handle is that it has started to crack and someone has tried to be "clever" and has drilled a hole at the end of the crack to stop the crack progressing. This is a practice that is/has been used in the aircraft industry but this is probably a good example of where not to use this technique. I have used this technique very occasionally, over the years, on other applications where I have needed to stop a crack in metal progressing. It can work if you are able to find the end of the crack and drill the hole just beyond where the crack finishes.
I would just have ground a groove along the crack and made good with wire feed...like Peter said. Then clean and blue. I guess drilling is the same idea as a curved corner compared to a square corner. Like the M1 rifle op rod, where the crack would form. The drilled hole allows the stress to relieve.Quote:
Originally Posted by Flying10uk
Yes, in this case it would be too little too late if that's what was done.
Not strictly relevant to this case but...... Drilling a hole in sheet steel to stop a crack traveling further is really a palliative and not a cure because the crack is STILL there! You can drill it and weld it up but it WILL crack again, this time down the side of the weld! You have to remove the fatigue that caused it in the first place. How do I know this? Nothing that you can learn at Uni but only something you can gain with experience and learning from older metallurgists - AND owning an MGB GT or Midget where the doors fatigue down the quarterlight line EVERY time you close them. It puzzled the designers at PSF in Swindon for years
I believe the practice in the aircraft industry was/is to drill at the end of the crack and then rivet, not weld, a generously sized aluminium plate over the top of the crack. It was an old boy in a car body shop who made me aware of this technique and the only University either he or I have ever been to is the University of life.
Yes SMG bayonet that's had the grips replacedQuote:
Originally Posted by browningautorifle
............. You've lost me! It's a No5 bayonet surely? The actual B1 part number hasn't changed since the first VAOS list - except to change to the newer NSN. B3/ is SMG's and B1/ for rifles. Or am I missing something
Dealers prefer to have a SMG bayonet, or what they may call a SMG bayonet, because they can charge significantly more money for them than if it is just a humble No5 bayonet. The real "Holy Grail" of SMG bayonets, I assume, are the ones with "Sterling" etched on the blades. The so called SMG bayonets that I have seen for sale seem to have around a £100 premium on them over No5 bayonets which is why I haven't bothered with getting one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Laidler
Maybe I'm stupid or something but the UK MoD parts list for the No5 rifle just lists BAYONET No5 Mk1 with the B1/CR xxxx part number.......... I look at the L2A3 parts list and there it is again, exactly the same............ Ah....., I see now.......... Is this a commercial thing invented by the dealers, similar to that of a bayonet for the Lanchester differing somehow from the bayonet for the No1 rifle?
Peter, Probably right there......a little bit of knowledge by dealers, that then gets transcribed into historical fact over time, as used by the SAS........that'll do it
I was taking it by the date stamp, made specifically for the SMG?Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Laidler
I'm surprised that the dealers haven't called the No5 bayonets currently made in India SMG bayonets and advertised them for a highly inflated price.
.....................don't hold your breath;)