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From what I've noticed, almost all M1903s have a glossy finish to their rifles, but mine looks like it lacks that glossy color except on the hand guard. Were some M1903s finished like how mine is at an arsenal, or is it an incorrect finish done by the previous owner?
That's an oil finish, which is how they all started. Later they would be hand rubbed with BLO and turned glassy...
The thing is that I've been trying to put numerous coats of BLO on the stock and it never seems to make it glossy. The last coat I even let sit on the rifle for almost 2 and a half days.
It's the handling after an oil finish that makes it glossy. Soldiers and civilians handling surplus rifles over the course of decades essentially buffed out the finish.
I've read stories of GIs passing the time by "boning" their stocks -- essentially rubbing the stocks with a bone (I think the story I read the GI was using a Coke bottle) to compress the fibers and make them glossy.
There's an art to a hand rubbed oil finish. The last one on the bench took three months. I'm working on a oil finish on a Remington 700 stock now which may be ready in two because the grain in the walnut is tight.
All you need is time, time and a little more time.
BTW, you're not going to match decades of burnishing. Just stop when the wood doesn't take anymore, maybe 5 or 6 "coats". Wipe all the oil off or you'll have a sticky mess.
I'm pretty sure that's an AB&B stock, (WWII replacement) unless the arsenal did any additional application they were just dipped. The hand guard is a lot older.
try using Danish oil.. usually 3 coats,, let sit for a few days,
break it down with 00 steel wool, and then rub some rifle grease into the stock with a rag
Sorry Chuck but I have to disagree. The wiping varnishes aren't good on rifle stocks over the long haul. Among other reasons, If your working with wood that has some soaked in gun oil or Cosmoline it can flake off like Shellac as it ages. Despite the trade names Tru-Oil, Tung oil and Danish oil they contain very little of the said "oil".
Agreed. Matching that classic red-tinged finish isn’t an immediate process. Stick with the linseed oil and it’ll look perfect *someday.*
I put a coat about 4 days ago and I let it sit. I wiped it off yesterday and it looks slightly more glossy. Should I keep repeating the process? Also do you think the finish on the rifle is original from the arsenal?Quote:
Originally Posted by rcathey
If you want the reddish tint that develops with age, you have to use raw linseed oil, not boiled. The boiled stuff contains chemical driers that make it much more convenient but it isn't correct and will never achieve the desired effect. It's also supposedly toxic to your hands where RLO is not.
Well do you think the stock has an original finish from the arsenal? If that's the case I won't even bother putting linseed oil on itQuote:
Originally Posted by Brian Dick
I'd say yes from the pictures. It's dry as a popcorn fart though. Get yourself a can of Crown brand raw linseed oil and give it a drink. That should be all it needs. I buy it by the gallon from Ace Hardware. If they don't have it, get them to order it for you.
You know what? I'm gonna go pick some up today. is it the same process as with BLO? put a coat on, wait an hour, wipe off the excess oil, and let it sit for a week?Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Dick
The old adage (any idea on the origin, anyone?) is, "once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, and once a year for the rest of your life."
It's the same process but you don't need to put it on too thick. I like to warm the wood up in the sun and then apply it with a sponge brush. Then lightly buff it out with fine steel wool and wipe the excess with a blue paper shop towel. You can add as many coats that make you happy but expect it to be a bit tacky for a while. That's how it should be. Some mix it with turpentine but I never have. Of course, I have a hot Carolina sun to work with even in Winter if it's out of the wind.
You buff it out about how long after applying?Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Dick
I buff it out while good and wet. Just work in small circular motions and you don't need to apply much pressure. Then wipe off the excess with a blue paper shop towel. Repeat as many times as you want to get your desired finish.
Conservators at the Springfield Armory National Museum say that you don't need to oil gun stocks.
OTOH, my experience has been that long exposure to low humidity (FHA gas heat) WILL eventually dry out any wood, & cause it to crack/crumble.
What about a 4:1 raw linseed oil and beeswax finish. Has anyone use this mixture?
Springfield Armory's stocks don't need oiling because they're in a temp and humidity controlled environment. Look at antique firearms, instruments, furniture. If it wasn't cared for the wood shrivels like Mr. Happy in the pool.
The 4:1 mix? That's basically "Gunny Paste" which is in reality a wood waxing recipe going way back before there where Gunnys.
I wouldn't use it because, well, why wax a milsurp stock?
Well why is the stock missing that glossy finish I see every other m1903 rifle have? (Btw mine is a Remington)Quote:
Originally Posted by WarPig1976
Deja vu!Quote:
Originally Posted by Mauser1947
That's been answered.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mauser1947
Like others have mentioned, decades of handling causes the wood fibers to themselves be polished. Regardless of the type of penetrating oil you apply, the hardness and smoothness of the wood fibers on the surface are responsible for the look you are going for. Try a little 000 steel wool to slightly buff the wood fibers when you apply another coat of BLO, or whatever penetrating oil you are using. Rough wood (how it was originally) will never take on that aged, deep semi-gloss look unless the wood fibers are compressed or smoothed. Handling, and many years of polishing and oiling will create the perfect look, but polishing the wood with a little steel wool, or other fine abrasive, will come close.
Researching while I was restoring an O3A3 and I found that handguards were frequently broken and replaced. This resulted in the handguards being of a different finish than the rest of the stock. This was born out when I found many replacement handguards still available. Apparently the military ordered a large number and had them on standby for replacing the broken ones.. So hand guards of a different finish than the rest of the stock is very common.
All I would add is this, as a military rifle, the finish should be a nice Semi luster, only my opinion, but I hate a glossy Military stock, strictly the preserve of sporting rifles...
I always find the best way of achieving this (assuming the wood is dry and clean) is to use a 3M red scotchbrite to give the wood a silky finish and slightly compress /Polish the fibers, then Raw Linseed oil until it stops drawing in, followed by buffing with a microfiber cloth to the desired finish.
Works for me anyway, everyone seems to have their personal favorite approach.
After first putting multiple coats of BLO on it.... How is it that one could expect RLO to penetrate the now sealed in Hard BLO finish?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mauser1947
He could wash the wood with clear ammonia and a Scotchbrite sponge/scrubby pad. Then rinse with cold water, dry well and reapply the raw linseed oil as original. He's already put BLO to it so might as well leave it as is in my opinion. I'm not really sure if the chemical dryers in BLO seal the surface of the wood or not. I was taught that wood needs to be treated as a living thing for maximum service life. It needs to breath and not be sealed. I realize that goes against most commercial gunstock finishing techniques but the wood does dry out terribly under commercial plastic, epoxy and varnish type finishes.
Brian,
I agree 100%
Just worried if he keeps lathering on the RLO OVER THE BLO he may end up with a sticky mess.
If the BLO will allow some RLO to penetrate, I'd go real easy on the RLO.
If mine, at this current point, I'd leave as is also.
Over time with buffing and regular handling, down the road he could then try and see if she'll accept RLO.
Cheers
Charlie-Painter777
This is the 700 stock I mentioned earlier.
Covered in Polyurethane and damaged. Notice the Walnut is lifeless. Dry as a popcorn fart under all the plastic. No love for about 40 years.
Attachment 88703
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Attachment 88708
Now two months later, vibrant and beautiful. Notice the "finish" is very thin. It takes YEARS of repeated oiling and handling to achieve the beautiful finish on Milsurps we all love and the OP wishes to replicate. Trying is folly. It's the reason people start waxing their stocks with Gunny paste or Howard's feed and wax. They get to a certain point and the project isn't turning out the way they thought it would so they speed things along. That's my opinion anyway...
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I did a Remington 1100 last winter for my accountant and that Dupont plastic finish is simply awful to remove. You did a great job.
Yep, super job. Its difficult to get a rifle back to its proper oil finish and you have achieved a great result
M1903 Springfield stocks made prior to 1928 (the end of regular production) were finished with a red dye called logwood as part of the production process. As I understand it, logwood is available in the form of chips that are dissolved in appropriate solvent (maybe water?) to create the dye.
What I also don't understand is why would a scant stock be sanded? My stock appears to be sanded. Were they often sanded at the arsenals?