30-06 Reloading, 165 Grain, Milsurp

All,

I recently snarfed up some black-tip 30-06 pulled bullets at an auction at a quite nice price. Just the impetus I needed to finally pull the trigger and buy that reloading kit.
I went with the Lee Breech Lock kit.
Bought my dies, a can of IMR 4895 (some prelim Googling suggested it) and some CCI 200 primers.

I also grabbed the "One Book/One Caliber" for the 30-06 but as a newbie, I'm still a bit lost.

The book has a host of 165 grain bullets and they all have different suggested load and COALs.

The average would be a starting charge of 45 grains, a max charge of 49.1, and a COAL of 3.278". With a good sized range between those figures.

I'd like to load up these bullets with a moderate load. I'd plan on shooting them from my 1903A3 but it's not impossible that I'd shoot them in my Garand. In all likelihood though, they'll be nifty trinkets in my gun safe for the foreseeable future.

Anyway, any direction you can give me would be much appreciated. No small bit of advice is too small. This is my very first foray into reloading. Thank!

The bullets you have are, from the description, M2 armor piercing. As the bullets have a cannelure, you should probably seat to the same length the Army did.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...sheetgif-1.jpg

Check that out! Very helpful. Thanks!
Any thoughts on the powder charge? I'm not certain how large of an impact one grain has one way or the other.

The max load for 165 grain bullets tends to run around 47.0 grains IMR 4895 in most load books. Look at what books say and plan to start about 10% less than max and working up. There are no port pressure considerations with the M1903 like there are with the M1. You might pick the brains of guys who are actively shooting them competitively. shoottherock

Some tips;
1. No alcohol.
2. Keep everything simple.
3. Only 1 powder can on the bench at one time (the one your using.)
3. Have clean brass that is TTL (trimmed to length), tumbled (you can buy liquid cleaners or sonic as well but the liquids were a PITA sonic is good).
4. The more you handle the brass the more chance you have of finding faults if any every time you pick one up to do something to it have a quick once over its amazing how neck splits can be missed.
5. If you are using just the one rifle you can just neck size but if using 2 rifles either have separate brass or FLS (Full Length resize each time).
6. When you chamfer the inside of the case neck it does not have to be a huge one just enough to take the trimming burr off same for the outside some people gouge a great runway inside the neck its not needed.
7. Do not mix your brass up as this can cause issues with pressure heavier cases have less internal volume which if your using high capacity loads can spike your pressures.
8. Throw your charges .2 grains under and trickle up to desired load for consistency if your just plinking just throw them a .2 - .3 grain discrepancy is not that big an issue for that endeavor.
9. Read lots of reloading books pays to buy a couple I have about 14 then again I am OCD on it.
10. MOST IMPORTANT - Keep all your charge weights in the case well above the 50% this stops double charging of rounds I keep my charges at 85-95%.

Finally just a few things only change one thing at a time like say primers or powder or even COAL by changing a couple of things you do not know where you end up its the Kiss principle.
If your using the one rifle go with a ladder test at say 100 yds start at the min load go up in .2 increments (watch for pressure signs stop when it gets flattened primers and use the load below it) also look for the smallest group you will find one load will be tight in fact the OCW ladder test shows there are actually 3 weights that are tight, what this means I have done it for my 6.5 x 284 is I can have a .3 grain variation either way (I don't mine are exact weights) but if I did then the rounds will still be grouping though not as tightly.
One tighter than the other 2 (which you use) but if there is a discrepancy in the charge it will still be in the group google it and read about it its a bit time consuming but if you want to be competitive this is the way to go if not you can just load and get reasonable results.
Go in the morning or late afternoon when the temp is moderate so you can at least keep the rounds cool, once in a shooting course had my rounds heated to 50C I only had 2 shots and stopped the 140gn 6.5mm Bergers were chronied at 3,170 and 3,185fps with blowby on the primers never again for that stunt.

Lastly reloading is fun and the results of your efforts you get to see on the paper or the plate just remember it is a step by step procedure keep it the same all the time if your going to natter stop what your doing and talk trying both you get lost in the sequence and thats where things can go wrong.

Cinders,
Those are all great tips. I’m going to print them off for use right at my bench. It’s very much appreciated!
I had been contemplating getting into it for a while. This lot of AP bullets was just the push I needed..even if it is a bit silly and useless haha.
I’ll buy the dies for my Krag and recoup my cost pretty dang quick!

The AP bullets are know for their accuracy compared to standard M2 ball. Try to load to no more then 2700 fps with the 165 gr. bullets. Neck sizing is best for use in your 1903. But in a Garand you will have to full length size each time as it's the nature of the beast in semi-autos. Once your ready to size raise the ram on your press up with the shell holder in it. Then turn your sizing die down till it just touches the shell holder. Then back the die up so you have a small gap between the bottom of the dies and the shell holder. Once you have it then lock your die in place and start sizing, Be sure to lube your cases before you attempt to size them. A nice even thin coat works best.

At the same auction I picked the bullets up at, there was a full bandolier on 1903 clips of the stuff. Would’ve really liked to have that too but the other guy wanted it more than I did. I believe I stopped bidding at $150.
I’ve seen this gentleman at a few auctions now and he’s become somewhat of a nemesis haha. Paid about twice what I should’ve for a WWII machete by trying to bid him up. Whoops.
Anyway, I’ll store back 40 or 50 of them. Shoot some groups with the other sometime...if I can find somewhere to shoot them. Don’t much think my local range would care for that idea haha.

I use 50 Gr of AR 2208 (Varget) down here for Military Competitions with 150 Gr FMJ out of my 03A3 according to my One Book/One Calibre look at page 82 under Hodgdon Powders which gives for IMR 4895 a starting load of 48 Gr for 2719 FPS maximum 51.2 Gr for 2789 FPS so a good load for you would be the starting load with those projectiles e.g. 48 Gr of IMR 4895

Dick

I use a trim die for my brass and then there's no mistakes. I crimp '06 in the cannelure as Old Tanker suggests. Crimping can be a hog if your brass varies even a little.

Hey Jim. I bought the Lee three-die kit. Not sure I understand what a "trim die" is. As I said, I am as new as it gets.
Can you (or anyone) recommend a good starter book just to get the basics? Not a load book, per se, but just a primer for reloading in general.

A trim die is where the case is inserted into the die and what ever protrudes out the top you can file off without harming the die as they are carbide then just ream the neck and your done, I have set my Lyman bench trimmer up for my 6.5 x 284 TTL 2.161" I invested in Lee quick trim dies that have a separate cutter coming from the top just push up with the press push down on the knob & turn 4-5 times your done does length, inside & outside neck easy peasy. Look up Lee Quick trim dies get the better one that does inside outside neck as well they are not too expensive been using them for years.

You actually need several books, probably three to be sure. Then you can compare notes between three or more...then there's online sites by the ammo or powder manufacturers...avoid hearsay from shooters fertile minds...

You certainly will not save money by reloading. You will however, have tons of fun, use your mind, probably make as or more accurate ammo than you can buy, have lots of questions and if not careful, cause damage to you your rifle and maybe the the guy next to you. Enjoy.

Dave

I do not concur with #14 post the simple fact is you will save money as with everything in life the initial set up to get it all together is the rock but start with modestly priced gear and build from there over time as you get more experienced. I am no Paul Ghetty but have spent 0000's on reloading gear over the past 35 years as others have and I am only a minor shooter others invest 10 times what I have.
The only way you can damage a rifle is to tread where angels fear to tread mainly trying to wring the last fps out of the cartridge as more often than not rifles tend to like 70 - 80% throttle which is good for you less recoil and better for barrel life in general.
Shehanne a well known champion F class shooter in the USA runs his 6.5 x 284 at 2950fps with 140gn projectiles I tried it and the gun actually torques off the front bag and not much gain really just increases barrel wear as I cannot do what he does and ask his sponsors for 10 match grade barrels for a seasons shooting.
I run mine at 2800-2850fps and am getting reasonable barrel life barrels get about 1600 rounds before they are toasted as they have had 2 re-crowns and a re-chamber.

Never be afraid to ask for a guide, don't wing it as there are forces at work just in front of your beak that if let loose damage the frail human body quite badly, what works in Ol' Mates rifle may not work in yours so be wary of the persons whom expounds fountains of knowledge they gained from books and not actual trigger time there is a vast difference.
If I want to play I get my wifes SKATT shooting system out and boy doesn't that show up some bad habits I have.

Enjoy bloke thats what its all about

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Originally Posted by CINDERS

Never be afraid to ask for a guide, don't wing it as there are forces at work just in front of your beak that if let loose damage the frail human body quite badly....

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That's pretty much it in a nutshell. I buy a lot of gun-type stuff at auction for resale. If I even think the seller reloads, I don't shoot any of the ammo I pick up. My guns and my face are much too expensive for fooling with unknowns!

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Originally Posted by rcathey

That's pretty much it in a nutshell. I buy a lot of gun-type stuff at auction for resale. If I even think the seller reloads, I don't shoot any of the ammo I pick up. My guns and my face are much too expensive for fooling with unknowns!

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Words to live by. I was given ~100 rounds of '06 reloads. I just pulled the bullets, oiled the primers and pitched the rest. Among the pitched components were a bunch that looked like this:

Attachment 88431

Total lack of attention to detail. Who knows what else is sketch? Consider the powder charge....

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Originally Posted by paulo57509

Consider the powder charge....

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Exactly. The prospects are terrifying...and my insurance rider doesn’t cover my guns for blowing up in use!

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Originally Posted by Wineman

You certainly will not save money by reloading.

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My ammo costs a pittance compared to factory. No comparison.

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Originally Posted by paulo57509

I just pulled the bullets, oiled the primers and pitched the rest.

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I've salvaged out many hundreds over the years...keeping valuable bullets that can be used.

post #5 number two on rules of reloading. be alone no small kids talking to you while reloading .talking= no powder drop

Hi all,

I appreciate when folks come back with an update so I thought I'd stop in real quick.
I've been chasing my own tail trying to make a couple bucks with auction reselling but I had some time last night.

50 beautiful black tips loaded into brand new brass over 48 grains of IMR 4895. Not expecting to shoot them anytime soon (the range I go to certainly wouldn't appreciate it). But golly they sure do look pretty! :thup:

Attachment 90208

They do look pretty at that. Another suggestion. Drop your charge seat the bullet. Drop the charge seat the bullet. Drop the charge seat the bullet. That way you shouldn't be able to over charge or miss a charge.

I use a powder measure on powder that allows, I scoop load or scale otherwise. I use a large loading block and check powder comparisons with a bright overhead light before seating...

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

I use a large loading block and check powder comparisons with a bright overhead light before seating...

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That's exactly how I did it. I just have a single stage so it made the most sense -- but checking the powder level in all the shells at once was quite comforting. There's some serious forces we're dealing with here, after all.

Always keep your load density above 50% that way if you do happen to double charge a round the case will over flow.
I use an RCBS Comp powder measure to throw all on the block @.3gn under grab one from the block then trickle up, drop weighted powder in, tilt the case & look in checking the level even though I have just dropped it in there, then seat that cases projie putting that finished round in another block in case I decide to do a run out check or meplat them all.