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I successfully stripped chrome /nickle plating from a project rifle. When the chrome and nickle came off the copper wash from the plating process remains.
How can I get it off? Looking for suggestions. The bright spots are where the metal was affected by corrosion and the bare steel is through in some areas. Thanks, Brian
Attachment 90509
I suggest you try one of the bore solvents that are sold for removing lead and copper in barrels. What I find over here appears to be strongly ammoniac-based. So don't dunk the receiver in the stuff - it could promote rusting in hard-to-get-at corners.
Wear rubber gloves, moisten a rough cloth with the solvent, and rub away on an inconspicuous patch. If the cloth starts turning blue, then it is indeed removing the copper. Carry on through a quiet hour or so, until the copper is all washed off. But do NOT forget to clean the entire receiver afterwards to remove any traces of solvent, and oil it - to prevent rust starting on the "bone-dry" steel.
We removed chrome from a batch of 1911 frames that came in two decades ago with silica glass beads and it took all of it off, chrome and copper all at the same time. It doesn't damage or remove features like sand blasting and you can see the color of the metal changing in the lights of the cabinet as you go. This would work for the remains here. You need to do that anyway to prepare for your blue next...Quote:
Originally Posted by Doco overboard
I tried ammonia based bore solvent like was suggested and made some progress. It was alot of work, some areas are more difficult than others. I want to try some glass beads but I'm unsure if I need a specific size or diameter. Or does it matter with glass?Quote:
Originally Posted by browningautorifle
Thanks everyone for the replies.
Silica sand glass beads are different grades I think but I forget what we used. They disappear to dust and a fine grade would work nicely... You'll watch at an angle in the light and you'll see a different shade of silver appearing... If in doubt try some cold blue for patches. You can glass bead it right back off.
Thanks, I'm going to give glass beading a try. I think the cu is actually thicker than the chrome in spots.
Look for the change in color, you'll see. Use the angle of the light reflecting to show you...it turns from a gold(ish) to a clean silver...Quote:
Originally Posted by Doco overboard
This is what I use. Probably the same that Jim was talking about.
Best Regards.....Frank:cheers:
Attachment 90573
Probably about the same, ours came in bags.
Glass beads knock it right off. It would have been better to just do that right from the start because all the cu would have been removed while it was still attached to the nickle and chrome. Separating the metals has just introduced more labor into the process. There is some slight copper wash that has remained but household ammonia and some bore cleaner will work that off. A quick polish on a muslin wheel would probably get me where I need to be once all that has been done.
I've tried to explain that a few times here without success...Quote:
Originally Posted by Doco overboard
Shouldn't be, just a longer blast will take all of it off. Remember to use the lights to show the color at an angle, you may need brighter bulbs. You'll see it being removed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Doco overboard
Finally got it all done. Glass beads did the trick thanks to BAR's direction. I used a CBI (critter) barrel, hi force 44'd the front site base,fixed the tinder-wood stock with advice from Warpig and fit barreled action, then home blued everything.Attachment 90813Attachment 90814Attachment 90815Attachment 90816Attachment 90817Attachment 90818Attachment 90819Attachment 90820
Very nice doco:thup:, yes they are very good the "Critter" barrels :lol:
Wonder where that came from, "Critter".:madsmile:Quote:
Originally Posted by CINDERS
Shortened off Criterion...Quote:
Originally Posted by Doco overboard
Nice blue job, the whole thing looks great. There should be no problems at the range now, print some and let's see? Glad I could have been of some help.
It was a bit of a lark Jim that when discusions are being held about barrels in the club rooms at a shoot where there are lots of people when your having lunch or better at the bar (Saturday night of a 2 dayer) after the shoot say and you mention Criterion barrels nary a head is turned as being shooter they are in the know about the latest wang fang dangled thing of the sport.
Get a mate onside and explain to him your going to call the Criterion "Critter Barrels" and you can see them ears a waggling with minor interest keep going saying how good they are and what successes they have had and you get a few over when they ask what a Critter Barrel is you explain one designed specifically for varmint eradication at unheard of ranges.
Oh! goody where do you get them, then you say just contact Criterion Barrels, Oh Lordy you get some dirty looks and mumbling but heck it sure is good to pull a few in...............................:lol::madsmile::l ol:
Attachment 90992 This is the first five shots. I did it with a portable rest at 100yds with 180 core- lockts off the hood of my truck. I didn't expect this to happen, I used the ladder site and peep with a front site blade I made myself out of a metal bracket used for supporting a shelf.
Then I bore sighted to a volley ball about 75 yards away, adjusted the windage a 1/8 point left and touched up the top of the blade so the ladder was halfway between the first and second graduation.
I was aiming at the bottom of the white dot. I also filed the sight blade on both sides to fit the slot of the re-pop post so Its a little wider than the original and easier to see.
Looking very good...another fine ending to a long story.