Ross MKI Bolt Dissembly

I picked this rifle up today and I'm in the process of cleaning it. It was sold as a MKI, but seems to have a few MKII features as well and very little in the way of markings.

The bolt is bone dry and takes quite a bit of force to operate. I can't figure out how to dissemble it beyond locking and unlocking the bolt head, and removing the extractor.

Here're some photos of the bolt itself. I'll photo the complete rifle soon and post that up as well - it's survived the past century quite well.

Thanks very much.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../r8D44w9-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../uWh3MHU-1.jpg

Got it apart. I now have a good strategy for how it's done, so if anyone else needs help, I can explain how they come apart.

It's in good shape, but I am wondering if the rough, darkened surface around the camming tracks may need attention?

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...2gjv3tCl-1.jpg

I looked at pics of the Ross bolt and compared them to yours I do not think the main spring should be in 3 pieces I may be wrong!
Found this pic of an early bolt it is markedly different to your one.

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Originally Posted by CINDERS

I looked at pics of the Ross bolt and compared them to yours I do not think the main spring should be in 3 pieces I may be wrong!
Found this pic of an early bolt it is markedly different to your one.

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I think the springs in mine are interspersed by several parts, such as a small washer. I'm about to clean and reassemble it, so more on that later.

I am just wondering about the washers on the F/P if they skew at all they would gall on the F/P slowing lock time and possibly causing issues operating the bolt if its a cock on closing. Anyway be good to see how it goes on the range.

Your spring is busted... Getting them apart was never the problem. Putting them back together was always the question. That's how guys ended up with a Ross bolt in the forehead. I expect this is why you haven't had returns on this one so far...we're all waiting to see... Later they were riveted together so they couldn't be user stripped.

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

Your spring is busted... Getting them apart was never the problem. Putting them back together was always the question. That's how guys ended up with a Ross bolt in the forehead. I expect this is why you haven't had returns on this one so far...we're all waiting to see... Later they were riveted together so they couldn't be user stripped.

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That’s the wrong model of bolt. Pity this didn’t strip in the same manner as the MKII or MKIII - it would’ve been easier.

And yes, checking the manual, it seems the spring has snapped. 😕

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Originally Posted by Anaxes

That’s the wrong model of bolt.

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That part doesn't matter and you know it...

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Originally Posted by Anaxes

the spring has snapped.

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I stand corrected then...it's busted...

Have fun with this one...

The broken firing-pin spring seems to be the cause of the resistance. Between sourcing a new spring and taking it to a gunsmith next week, it'll be awhile till it's fired.

This is what I used as a guide for stripping and reassembling the bolt.

#2

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Originally Posted by CINDERS

I do not think the main spring should be in 3 pieces

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:dunno:

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Originally Posted by CINDERS

the washers on the F/P if they skew at all they would gall on the F/P

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:dunno:

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Originally Posted by CINDERS

#2 :dunno:

:dunno:

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The the washer isn’t galling, thankfully. The smallest spring fits inside cocking piece.

The stamps on the left side of the receiver are all that's immediately visible. Nothing visible on the stock.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../S9FReK0-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../zEJUMRm-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../940xz6a-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../HCg1AMb-1.jpg

Nice find. Barrel looks to be full length, only the wood cut back. How is the bore?

If you carefully remove the rear hand-guard, the year of manufacture and serial number should be found there.

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

Getting them apart was never the problem. Putting them back together was always the question. That's how guys ended up with a Ross bolt in the forehead. I expect this is why you haven't had returns on this one so far...we're all waiting to see... Later they were riveted together so they couldn't be user stripped.

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This does not apply to this model. If you assemble the bolt incorrectly on this (1903 - MK I) or the 1905, MK II, you will not be able to fit it back into the rifle.

The rivet found on some M-10 and MK III bolts still allows you to strip it. The rivet will prevent you from assembling the bolt incorrectly.

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Originally Posted by Ax.303

Nice find. Barrel looks to be full length, only the wood cut back. How is the bore?

If you carefully remove the rear hand-guard, the year of manufacture and serial number should be found there.

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Thanks. It turned up in a friend's shop as part of a collection.

The barrel measures 28" inches. Minor pitting, dark in the grooves, fairly strong and bright lands, chamber clean and free of pits, crown in worn condition. It's yet to be slugged or gauged.

Here's what's stamped under the hand guard:

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...ovt00ikl-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...zw7G8mQl-1.jpg

28 in. is right for a full length barrel.

G 879 is the serial No., manufactured in 1905.

You might be a bit surprised, the bores on Mk I and early Mk IIs are usually quite tight.

Most of these posts are correct; reassembly of this bolt incorrectly will just mean you can't get it back into the rifle. Reassembling a Mk III bolt incorrectly will allow you to put it back in the rifle but it won't lock and will fly out at you when you fire the rifle. And your mainspring is in three pieces. This example of yours is an early one, but has been sporterized. Is there anything stamped into the wood of the right hand side of the stock? Ross factory crest in a roundel, date or serial number?

Ed

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Originally Posted by Ax.303

28 in. is right for a full length barrel.

G 879 is the serial No., manufactured in 1905.

You might be a bit surprised, the bores on Mk I and early Mk IIs are usually quite tight.

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I'd like to slug it, but I don't have a suitable dowel handy at the moment.

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Originally Posted by boltaction

And your mainspring is in three pieces. This example of yours is an early one, but has been sporterized. Is there anything stamped into the wood of the right hand side of the stock? Ross factory crest in a roundel, date or serial number?

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The firing pin spring is split in two, but I think there should be a two-piece spring arrangement with the smallest spring fitting inside the cocking piece. I could well be mistaken.

No, sadly it's blank. Nothing at all. It may have been sanded away and refinished when the stock was cut back.