Going to field strip my M1 Garand for the first time. Advice? Tips? Supplies?

Dear Milsurps Forum,

I've purchased a Garand about a year ago and am ready to do my first full cleaning.

I've only shot it twice and after about 70 rounds through it I found that the bolt was not closing properly (see photos - proper vs improper). This happens even when I use snap caps and I have to push it a bit to get it closed most the time. I'm hoping a good cleaning will fix this (if there is something more to it then please let me know). At the range the action has no trouble cycling the next round into the chamber, it just won't close all the way. I'm terrified that closing it the rest of the way will cause a (slam fire?) and cut my hand open (I've read about this but I may be mistaken if it can happen in this situation).

I watched the Brownells Inc. M1 Garand Firearm Maintenance series on YouTube to prepare for the cleaning. Some general questions about cleaning tool/methods:

I have G96 brand complete gun treatment (Cleans, lubricates, protects). Will that be good enough for a cleaner or should I purchase somethings like Hoppe's No. 9 and/or Breakfree CLP. Also TCE Degreaser Aerosol was an extra option. Thoughts?

For lube I'm going to use Lubripate 130-A Mil Spec Grease. good? Just going off what I saw in the video I watched, any better recommendations let me know.

I'm going to use a snake instead of bore rod/patches.

Should I be removing the gas plug for cleaning? If so, can I use any screwdriver or should I invest in a specific gas cylinder lock screw wrench? How tight do I need to screw it back on afterwards?

Sorry for the long post with too many basic questions. It's my first time disassembling and cleaning a semi-automatic firearm and I don't want to do something stupid.

Thank you

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Originally Posted by AaronGee

I have G96 brand complete gun treatment (Cleans, lubricates, protects). Will that be good enough for a cleaner or should I purchase somethings like Hoppe's No. 9 and/or Breakfree CLP. Also TCE Degreaser Aerosol was an extra option. Thoughts?
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Get one of the foaming bore cleaners, they are very effective for removing copper fouling from GI broached bores.

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Originally Posted by AaronGee

For lube I'm going to use Lubripate 130-A Mil Spec Grease. good? Just going off what I saw in the video I watched, any better recommendations let me know.
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Back in the day when everyone shot the M1 and M14 in High Power, Plastilube was the grease of choice. It won't melt in the summer, and it won't get stiff in the winter. Champions Choice Shooter Supply has it. Get one of those little flux brushes used for applying soldering flux at Lowe's. They are the perfect applicator for grease on the M1.

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Originally Posted by AaronGee

I'm going to use a snake instead of bore rod/patches. Attachment 91786Attachment 91785

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I would get a quality cleaning rod like the Dewey 25" model made specifically for the M1/M14. Used wound core bronze brushes and cotton flannel patches on a jag. And use a cleaning rod guide. More M1 barrels have been ruined by enthusiastic use of a 3 piece cleaning rod than everything else put together. Clean the rifle inverted in a cradle so the solvent does not have the chance to run down into the bedding.

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Originally Posted by AaronGee

Should I be removing the gas plug for cleaning? If so, can I use any screwdriver or should I invest in a specific gas cylinder lock screw wrench? How tight do I need to screw it back on afterwards?Attachment 91786Attachment 91785

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Get a USGI M10 combo tool. In addition to properly fitting the gas plug, it make bolt disassembly easy, whether the bolt is in or out of the rifle. A 6 inch section of cleaning rod thru the center hole will provide the proper degree of torque.

On your bolt closing issue. You are not clear if the bolt needs a nudge when closing on an empty chamber, or only when loading a cartridge or snap cap. The bolt should close fully when eased forward on an empty chamber. When there is a cartridge or snap cap being chambered, the round is pushed forward by the bolt and the extractor has to snap over the rim as the bolt closes. If you are easing it closed, then yes it will require a nudge to get it to fully close. Standard procedure when single loading a live round is to insert the cartridge into the chamber and ease the bolt forward to the halfway point and release to fully close under spring pressure. Do not release the bolt from the fully retracted position unless feeding from the 8 round clip.

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I can't add much to what no4mk1t has told you above...in fact, probably nothing.
But when breaking mine down, I use this guide and it is fantastic: Disassemble the M1 Garand
Then, they have another great guide on greasing your Garand: Greasing the M1 Garand

Links for stuff mentioned above.

Plastilube. This one jar is a lifetime supply. Use sparingly, a thin film is sufficient.
Champion's Choice

M1 cleaning rod guide. Machined to fit over muzzle.
Champion's Choice

Dewey 25" cleaning rod.
Champion's Choice

M10 combo tool.
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When firing the M1 rifle in competition from 1958 until about 1965 I never had occasion to disassemble the trigger housing group. Of course crawling through mud or in extremely dusty conditions might make it necessary to disassemble. I recall only once when it was necessary to disassemble the bolt. That was when the extractor broke. Breaking the rifle down into the three major groups was seldom done as we were concerned about the zero changing when this was done. I did a lot of firing with the M1 but legged out to get my Distinguished Rifleman badge with the M14 n 1967.

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Originally Posted by no4mk1t

On your bolt closing issue. You are not clear if the bolt needs a nudge when closing on an empty chamber, or only when loading a cartridge or snap cap. The bolt should close fully when eased forward on an empty chamber. When there is a cartridge or snap cap being chambered, the round is pushed forward by the bolt and the extractor has to snap over the rim as the bolt closes. If you are easing it closed, then yes it will require a nudge to get it to fully close. Standard procedure when single loading a live round is to insert the cartridge into the chamber and ease the bolt forward to the halfway point and release to fully close under spring pressure. Do not release the bolt from the fully retracted position unless feeding from the 8 round clip.

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Hi, can I just confirm that if I'm shooting a full EN BLOC clip (8) and half way through the bolt does not close on the round (second photo), am I safe to nudge it forward from the position it is in?
It always closes fully when empty and on the first round as well. Just sometimes a few rounds into shooting the action will not close.

Also, were any of the products I mentioned particularly bad? I'm thinking I should just order them from a that one place (Brownells) so I can get everything at once and get this cleaning done. I also won't have to deal with finding places that will ship to Canada. Then I can just adjust my inventory when I find something works/doesn't work. If anything seems like a mistake to purchase then I'll find a way to source your recommendations.

Thank you

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Originally Posted by Herschel

I never had occasion to disassemble the trigger housing group

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I won't be disassembling it to that point. Just enough to clean/lube it.
Here is a video that I will try to replicate:
M1 Garand Firearm Maintenance: Part 1 Disassembly - YouTube.

Yes, you can bump the op rod to close the bolt.
It sounds like the op rod spring is weak then, or the rifle has old gummy grease slowing the action down. I always recommend that peeps replace the spring when they acquire an M1 from the CMP or other sources. The action will cycle snappier, and the recoil impulse will be slightly softer. Be sure to grease it when you install it.

None of the products you mentioned are bad, I just named what we used back in my rifle team days.

Do not be afraid to detail strip the M1 and give it a thorough cleaning and lubrication. It is not rocket science. The trigger group is pretty simple to disassemble reassemble, you just need a few pics and a little instruction. Holler if you want that. I probably already have the pics from posts done in the past.

Thanks a man. I think I'll give it a cleaning and then take it to the range. If it still happens I'll look into replacing the spring. Apparently this thing sat in a safe of a private owner for 20 years before I bought it. Garands are hard to come by up here. I'll message you if I have any problems but I'm feeling a lot more confident than when I got it and was too afraid to take it apart.

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Originally Posted by AaronGee

Garands are hard to come by up here.

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Take a look on the EE at CanadianGunNutz then. You'll find them by the dozen. The spring you seek is the operating rod spring. That's going to be harder to find, and don't get a Wolfe extra strength spring. Get an original one if possible and a new one. Otherwise you're buying what you have, a worn out weak spring.

I agree with browningautorifle.
The op rod spring should be replaced about every 2000 rounds. I have the USGI spec somewhere on what the free OAL should be of a serviceable spring. I'll have to hunt it up.

I have torn down M1's before where the spring came out in 3 pieces, yet the owner was still shooting the rifle and reported no issues.
Remember that the heel of the receiver stops the bolts reward travel. As the spring gets weaker, the receiver takes a bigger hit with each shot.

You can get a newly made, USGI spec spring here. I talked to Clint McKee, the owner of Fulton Armory at Camp Perry, and he tracked down the original contractor and had them make him new springs to the USGI WW2 print. For only $9, every M1 owner should have a few spares. Surely there's a way to get them to Canada.

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There are several of us here that are very knowledgeable on the M1 and can help with repair, tuning, and shooting issues. All you have to do is ask.

OK, found it.

This is from a USMC armorer.

Replace any spring that:

Is less than 19" free length regardless of round count.
Is kinked or does not lay straight when out of the gun.
Has flat spots on the coils.
Has >2500 rounds on it or unknown rounds in the case of a M1 you bought.

Do not use "extra power" springs or a spring longer than 20.5" long.

And do not use ammo that is not USGI spec or equivalent handload. Most commercial 30-06 ammo is loaded with powders that are not compatible with the M1. Federal and Hornady load ammo that is specifically designed for the M1 and is so labeled. Prvi Partisan also has a M2 Ball equivalent load.

Hello, if you can respond quickly it would be helpful.

Can you tell me if this is the proper spring. It says Fulton Armory but is posted on a different site. I just ordered a bunch of stuff from Brownwell as previously mentioned so if it's the proper op-rod I'm going to purchase and see if they can tack it onto my shipment.

https://www.brownells.com/rifle-part...prod38877.aspx

Thank you

Yes, That's the one.

Don't over think the lube. To an M1, grease is grease is grease. Get a 1# tub of high temp, high pressure wheel bearing grease from your local Wal Mart for about $5. It's more than sufficient and will last you 10 lifetimes. The best op rod springs for the money are the ones from Orion 7, bar none.
Jon

"...my first full cleaning..." That should have been before you fired the thing. Anyway, an M1 isn't difficult to field strip.
Go here for a free .pdf manual. Read it. Note the need for the provided UN & PW. You want FM-23-5 and TM-9-1275. Don't worry about Ordnance being spelt wrong by Fulton.
Biggerhammer.net - Miscellaneous Firearms Technical and Training Manuals
"...removing the gas plug for cleaning..." Removing the gas plug is part of a full cleaning. Any screwdriver will do for off and back on. Screwdriver tight is enough.
"...Garands are hard to come by up here..." Garands in decent condition are hard to come by up here. They are Stateside too. S'why they worth the money asked. Only if the thing is in decent condition though. I've seen junkers at gun shows the guy thought were worth $775 when they were worth that Stateside in good condition. U.S. values mean nothing here. The guy hauled 'em back and forth for months. Same guy wanted $4 each for a $1.50 clip. That were in poor condition too.
When you get that far, think 150 or 168 grain bullets with IMR4064.

I can remember when there was at least one or two men in most every squad that could disassemble the M1, and put it all back together blindfolded !

Forget about those "GI cleaning party" where one guy cleaned all the op rods and another cleaned another part - my observations - everybody cleaned
his own rifle and never wanted to mix around parts from other rifles.

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Originally Posted by RCS

everybody cleaned
his own rifle and never wanted to mix around parts from other rifles.

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I did it for 35 years and never did see guys mix up rifle parts. The weapon was your own responsibility...be it the LAR or MG, rocket launcher or mortar...rifle...pistol...

I remember in Basic Training we were not supposed to disassemble the trigger group. One guy would collect all the trigger groups, take them into the latrine and blast them with the super-hot water in the sink. Then he would go down the aisle and toss a clean group on each bunk.

your basic training rifle is only temporary. I told the squad leader in basic that I could disassemble the trigger housing if someone could find
a good nail. Someone found a nail and I took each mans trigger housing apart for cleaning then put it together for final inspection.

The G.I. is not suppose to take the trigger housing apart

Or the bolt.

my favorite trick when I was an armorer, was to bet someone that I could remove the firing from the rifle
with taking it apart - and put it back in too.

just use that M10 tool and shake it out, takes longer to shake it back in but it will go

Bruce Dow turned me on to Permatex Super Lube grease. It sticks better than anything I've ever used and is the absolute best for the M1 and M14 rifles. A tub of it will last a lifetime as a little bit goes a very long way.

One of the Sergeants in Basic Training could unlatch your op rod from the bolt with a quick flick... you had to disassemble the rifle to get it back on :(

Just an update: Did my cleaning/op rod replacement Friday (04/13). Tearing it down was quite easy, I had a little trouble figuring out how to separate the follower rod from the spring but it was just pulling it apart. You seem to be right about the operating rod, it was slightly less than 19" and the coils were quite compressed towards the follower rod. I'll attach some photo's of the cleaning, you can see the difference between the old/new.

Also there is a photo of a 'FULTON ARMORY - ARMORY M1 GARAND GAS CYLINDER WRENCH' (blue thing). I though that was for unscrewing the gas port screw at the end when I purchased it. When it arrived it was quite large and I realized it fits around the end of the gun. I don't really know what it is for, do you? I used a regular Flathead to screw/unscrew the gas cylinder lock screw. I'll probably end up stripping it if I keep doing that, so I'll look for the proper tool at a gun show or purchase one online before my text tear down.

Assembly went fairly easy. Getting the op rod spring in and reattached was a but difficult but I did it. Hopefully I used enough lubricant.

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As for the final result:

Seems to have worked, but I'll have to take it to the range to be sure. I have a full clip of snap caps for testing. The first clip was a little difficult to get in. I got it in and cycled the action until the clip ejected. I did this three times and only had the problem of it not closing all the way once. Next week (likely Tuesday) is range day so I'll have to see how it works with live rounds.

I attached more photo's. On one of them I guess I did not get the clip down far enough, it would not close.

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Originally Posted by AaronGee

Just an update: Did my cleaning/op rod replacement Friday (04/13). Tearing it down was quite easy, I had a little trouble figuring out how to separate the follower rod from the spring but it was just pulling it apart. You seem to be right about the operating rod, it was slightly less than 19" and the coils were quite compressed towards the follower rod. I'll attach some photo's of the cleaning, you can see the difference between the old/new.

Also there is a photo of a 'FULTON ARMORY - ARMORY M1 GARAND GAS CYLINDER WRENCH' (blue thing). I though that was for unscrewing the gas port screw at the end when I purchased it. When it arrived it was quite large and I realized it fits around the end of the gun. I don't really know what it is for, do you? I used a regular Flathead to screw/unscrew the gas cylinder lock screw. I'll probably end up stripping it if I keep doing that, so I'll look for the proper tool at a gun show or purchase one online before my text tear down.

Assembly went fairly easy. Getting the op rod spring in and reattached was a but difficult but I did it. Hopefully I used enough lubricant.

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There was no pic of you installing the spring. Did you grease the spring when you installed it? If not, take it out and use a small brush to apply grease as you feed it into the op rod. The proper amount is enough to coat the coils without bridging the coils.

The gas cylinder wrench is to properly hold and support the gas cylinder when removing or tightening the gas cylinder plug. It prevents you from putting excessive torsional stress on the rifle if you try to hold it by other means.
At your next gun show, buy a USGI M10 combo tool. In addition to properly fitting the gas plug, it also allows you to disassemble the bolt easily whether it is installed in the rifle or not.

Also, the Garand is "handed." The rounds must be stacked properly, starting with the left-hand shell first so that the last, highest shell is on the right hand side.

Bob

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Originally Posted by AaronGee

As for the final result:

Seems to have worked, but I'll have to take it to the range to be sure. I have a full clip of snap caps for testing. The first clip was a little difficult to get in. I got it in and cycled the action until the clip ejected. I did this three times and only had the problem of it not closing all the way once. Next week (likely Tuesday) is range day so I'll have to see how it works with live rounds.

I attached more photo's. On one of them I guess I did not get the clip down far enough, it would not close.

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Make sure all the cartridges are fully seated in the clip. Do this by loading 7 rounds, and checking to ensure all are fully seated before inserting #8. A round that is not fully seated will catch on the receiver and prevent insertion of the clip.
Top round should be on the right. All arsenal ammo is loaded that way. Lefties will load top round on the left to make pressing the clip in easier left handed.

The M1 is designed to allow a full clip to be inserted and latch in place without the op rod closing on your thumb. A slight bump on the op rod handle will close the bolt. Watch some old USGI training vids on youtube to see what I mean.

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Originally Posted by Steve762

Question: "closing all the way". Do you mean not stripping the first round out of the clip (pic 4) or the bolt not rotating into battery??? Pic 5 shows bolt in battery.

It is very common for M-1s not to strip the first round out of the clip while loading. The image in your pic 4th from the left shows this common loading situation. It is not a fault of the rifle. Some clips are tighter than others or have a rougher finish which causes more resistance in stripping the first round out of the clip. Most M1 shooters automatically bump the op rod forward after clip loading to help the first round strip out of the clip. The technique is shown in training films and war movies.

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Yes, it was not stripping the first round. It was after a while. In pic 5 it is closed. One time it did not close. My problem before was that it would not close, that's why I changed the op rod spring.

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Originally Posted by no4mk1t

There was no pic of you installing the spring. Did you grease the spring when you installed it? If not, take it out and use a small brush to apply grease as you feed it into the op rod. The proper amount is enough to coat the coils without bridging the coils.

The gas cylinder wrench is to properly hold and support the gas cylinder when removing or tightening the gas cylinder plug. It prevents you from putting excessive torsional stress on the rifle if you try to hold it by other means.
At your next gun show, buy a USGI M10 combo tool. In addition to properly fitting the gas plug, it also allows you to disassemble the bolt easily whether it is installed in the rifle or not.

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I did lube the spring as per the instructional video I referenced. Thanks, I will get that tool at the next show I go to.

So I went to the range today.

The original problem is fixed. But there is a new one now.

For the first three clips it went fine for the most part, with minor issues. The first clip did not eject, one round did not feed properly and another did not eject properly. From my understanding these are common occurrences and I don't have to worry.

During the 4th clip however.... the clip started to eject after four rounds (getting stuck when the bolt would close on it). I topped it up and put it back in. However, it would keep ejecting after two and sometimes four rounds.

Relatively common problem.
It could be the clip latch spring. Before purchasing a replacement, you could take out your current spring and give it a stretch. If upon reinstalling the problem is solved, go out and buy a new one because this is definitely not a permanent fix.
There are other possible causes but this is by far the cheapest to eliminate. It's where I'd start.

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Originally Posted by AaronGee

it would keep ejecting after two and sometimes four rounds.

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I wouldn't mess with anything on the rifle. Stop using that clip for a few weeks and keep shooting. If the problem persists with other clips then start the puzzle of parts. If not then sell the clip to someone else...it may work find in his rifle. Many clips are as new and made in China, original markings and all. The can be the problem. Sort and mark them for disposal.

Good thinking, Jim.
OP, go with what he said. Even cheaper than my suggestion!!!

A man I know had no end of trouble and couldn't even tell me what was wrong, we isolated the clips that gave trouble and trouble ended. Turned out they were Greek black parkerized so they were easy to find. Didn't bother stripping them, he just moved them on.

I had a similar problem with my M1 doing the same thing. It turns out it was over parked clips I used 0000 steel wool rubbed them down as well as purchase new clips and now I have no more problems.

Thanks Jim, I'm going to test out all my clips next range day. I honestly can't remember how many I tried thT day (I think two).

Today I tested all my clips with snap caps. I could not replicate the problem. Although I think on the day of the problem the clip latch spring may of been stuck down, I was not paying much attention to that then.

I sorted my clips into Good/Bad. I noticed some would not feed, others worked flawlessly. It seems the clips that are sort of 'bent in' have problems. Wider ones are okay. I hope you can visualize. I'll test out the good ones and see if there is any premature ejecting. And also buy a extra Clip Latch Spring, since they're only $5, good to have one around.

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Originally Posted by AaronGee

buy a extra Clip Latch Spring, since they're only $5, good to have one around.

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I'll bet you don't go through it in two lifetimes. They got weak after being left loaded for weeks on end during action...you just won't put the same stresses on it. Sort your clips and keep the good ones. Sell the others on CGN.

Take a look at the attached picture. Depending on the clip manufacture and ammo could be causing the spread enbloc