Spanish Star Super A

Mike found me a Star Super A today. I personally think these are a steal for the quality and the price they are currently at. Nearly identical in size and function to a 1911. The Super A is 9mm Largo which is tough to get ammo for but reloading components are readily available and you can use 9mm dies rather than purchasing Largo dies which cost 2/3rds of what the guns do. The Super B is more common and is in 9mm.

Thought about one of these for my daughter as she wants to get a handgun without breaking the bank but they are too big to conceal, so I'm keeping it.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../FBmXdHt-1.jpg

Four proofs: Factory proof, government proof, date code (S which is 1948) and above them the military acceptance proof.

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https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../GCJZsuh-1.jpg

This one also has a four digit assembly number which is different than the serial number. Located on frame, barrel and slide. I've seen a lot of different markings on these, some have serial numbers on the frame and slide on the side, some have much larger assembly numbers. I have not seen a specific pattern. Serial number is always on the frame on the butt.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../ARiKPSy-1.jpg

I already have ammo as I purchased a bunch for an Astra 400 that someone converted to 9mm. Will be getting brass from Midway to reload. There is a company making ammo but at $32 per 50, a bit cost prohibitive. It's still less than surplus is going for, $1 per round.

I had one years ago and used to shoot 9mm by loading from the mag. They have a huge extractor claw that hold the cartridge nicely...couldn't load single though as it would just disappear down the chamber. I also shot 38 super successfully and loaded that for it from that point onward... I broke and had to make a firing pin too, because they are not a floating firing pin, and rest against the primer...they take a beating.

I had read about firing pin issues with these and with that in mind checked it before I bought it. This one has an inertial firing pin. I'm not sure if that means it was replaced at some time or not as I've read early ones do not have inertial pins but later ones do. At 1948 and second year of production, this would be a very early one considering they made them into the 1980's. But then again, they may be referring to the entire line which began in 1921. They became "Super" in 1946 with the addition of the quick disassembly leaver and a few other changes. I thought it strange at the time because I never really investigated firing pins much and assumed it would protrude when the hammer was against it. It does not. But it looked like a normal pin and we figured it must be inertial to drive into the firing pin. Checked my 1911 when I came home and it is the same way. As for other ammo, I've read that while it can be done, it's not recommended. With inexpensive brass, I"m not going to worry about it. I don't shoot a lot and if I load 200 rounds, it's going to last me a while.

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Originally Posted by Aragorn243

This one has an inertial firing pin. I'm not sure if that means it was replaced at some time or not as I've read early ones do not have inertial pins but later ones do.

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Didn't know they did that, good idea though. I didn't have trouble, just that probably due to me dry firing it broke...and of course there's a minor hazard of AD while chambered if carrying. I can't do that here so there's no worry to me. Yes, they're inertia now. Can't think of one that isn't. Just the old ones aren't.

Dry firing and Star pistols don't go together. The firing pin will break eventually.

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Originally Posted by Daan Kemp

Dry firing and Star pistols don't go together.

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You are correct Sir...and I did...

I have heard firing pin breakage is an issue but am curious, how does dry firing break a firing pin? Where does it break? Tip, middle, where the groove is cut out near the rear?

I forget where mine broke. It's because the shock of dry firing sends the waves out the end of the firing pin instead of transmitting them to the primer of the cartridge. This firing pin absorbs the whole of it instead of floating forward and bouncing back.

Usually the front quarter breaks off. It might continue working or might not.

The usual test for correct firing pin protrusion is to empty gun, cock hammer, use a pencil or similar to press firing pin down flat, see if the firing pin protrudes sufficiently [about a mm], release. If the firing pin is broken the broken point/front part won't retract when you release the pressure on the firing pin. Keep muzzle slightly down to check.

Can't find snap caps for 9mm largo anywhere.

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Originally Posted by Aragorn243

Can't find snap caps for 9mm largo anywhere.

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Would 38 Super or 9x23 work? I bet they make snap caps for those.

I'd make it from a live round or number of them. Drill four holes big enough to allow powder out and fire primer with a torch. These things are something you have to have a handle on...then if the primer doesn't blow out drill it out and use a blot of epoxy for a filler. Also I've used pencil eraser if the primer holes allow...small erasers from mechanical pencils.

38 super should work and they are available. 9x23 winchester looks a bit shorter than 9x23 Largo. Will try researching a bit more before buying.

Use a old fired case with pencil eraser or a dab of cyclone in primer cup.

I like to use black gasket maker. Smear a gob on the end of the cartridge, let cure for 24 hours, then cut flush with a razor blade.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../0urQhV4-1.jpg

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Originally Posted by Baal

I like to use black gasket maker.

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Nice idea! Very professional looking. How well does that hold up?

Each of those dummy rounds has been dry fired several hundred times.