First date...and I broke her.....

So I took my new project to the range today for the first time. Wanted to get acquainted and perhaps zero the girl in. After 60 or so rounds.....this happened.....I cam back to the bench from marking my target and saw the barrel tip looked funny...and found the cracked flash hider about 15 yards downrange. Curiously, it did not make a noticeable noise when it happened.
My questions today are:
1- So what may have caused it? There is a set screw, but is it supposed to be soldered on as well?
2- What is the proper fix? Are they replaceable at home or will it require a professional?

Attachment 93938
Attachment 93939
Attachment 93940
Attachment 93941

I haven't seen that one, ours had a long tube at the back too. They usually cracked at the front and looked like prongs after. That one looks like something was at the muzzle and blocking it... It just happens though, metal fatigue. There should on the UK/Aus/CDN models be a long tube at the back and a washer that enters a small cutout to hold it from unscrewing. The washer is riveted in place, is on the bottom behind the bayonet lug. Your muzzle isn't even threaded, and those screw on. No set screw involved...don't know what you have there exactly...

I know...its a "C" word.....a "Century" item with a mix of mostly Enfield and BSA parts, and a few Australian thrown in for political correctness. The barrel is marked "M E" on the shoulder.
Here are some close ups.....
Attachment 93943Attachment 93944Attachment 93945Attachment 93946Attachment 93947Attachment 93948

Sorry your FE got launched Trooper... Like Jim, I am struggling to get to grips with what you have there...

Is it possibly a heavily modified Indian 1A1 FE .. Am I seeing this right, was it just a grub screw holding it on?!!

As Jim said, there should be a threaded portion to the rear of the FE, this is screwed on to the barrel and aligned with a relief cut underneath. Then a 'key' locks into the slot and is pinned in place.

I think we need Brian's thoughts on this as to the best way of rectifying this rather slap dash effort.

You could you know...send the rifle to Brian Dick at BDL and he could thread up the front end and screw on the flash eliminator of the slotted tube type... No more ka-boom flash eliminator...it would look great too.

Its a British Flash Eliminator that has been modified. The rear portion of the flash eliminator has been removed, probably to allow it to fit on the barrel which is tapered. The threads have been removed and the altered F/E has been fitted using the grub screw. The removal of material means any hairline cracks that had formed in the end of the slots had no resistance and away they went. Get someone that knows L1A1/FAL rifles to re-thread the barrel, put in the key way and install a full length F/E.

It looks to me like someone at some stage rebarreled the rifle and added the flash eliminator later, and thats the consequence sadly. American or Indian?

Definately a British Fazakerley flash eliminator as KtK says, shortened at the rear, pushed on to an unthreaded barrel and fixed with a grub screw. The forward thrust forces on the flash eliminator are tremendous. And the notion that a grub screw was going to retain it is something that a 5th year schoolboy would realise! When something wants to go, it goes - just like that!

To be really honest, if you thread the muzzle (anyone know the thread off hand?) on the basis that you aren't going to do a lot of bayonet fighting, you could just thread the f/e on tight and lock it with locktite as per the SA80

Peter,
My query would be, the join has been cut right behind the bayonet lug and not further to include the loop, was that a British Fazakerley? More like American or Indian additive IMHO!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Peter Laidler

if you thread the muzzle (anyone know the thread off hand?)

---

That was where the idea of sending it to Brian came in. He's done his share of these. I knew it had been altered...just a cheap way to make a rifle LOOK correct...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Peter Laidler

on the basis that you aren't going to do a lot of bayonet fighting

---

Donald Trumps got a few years to go yet Peter ... A war with Canada looming, I wouldn't rule out bayonet fighting just yet! :rofl:

So should I spend more money to have it retreaded and continue the
Incorrectness and just have fun with it, or should I find a new inch barrel? What would the retread/new f/e cost? Any ideas?

The barrel looks US made. Acquiring/fitting an original L1A1/SLR barrel will not be cheap...

Agreed, highly probable a U.S fit.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 82Trooper

So should I spend more money to have it rethreaded

---

Yes, Brian Dick can do that I'm sure.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bardo

Acquiring/fitting an original L1A1/SLR barrel will not be cheap

---

Just thread the front...no need to change it.

See your PMs...

I'd find a good used barrel and replace it. Threading the cut off barrel will never be right. That's just my opinion. I've restored/tuned up a bunch of CAI SLR's with Imbel receivers over the years and always replaced the chopped barrels so I could properly install a flash hider. The big hurdle now is to find a decent replacement barrel.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Brian Dick

Threading the cut off barrel will never be right. That's just my opinion.

---

Well you would know...but even threading and doing a loc-tight like Peter suggests? As stated, I doubt he'll be bayonet fighting...but might get it hot, heaven knows...

It could be done Jim. It's just not my preference. I don't have a correct die to thread the barrel here and I'm guessing it would have to be cut back some more because all of the CAI Clinton AWB era barrels I've seen are cut across the little half moon cutout for the washer that holds the FE in index. Maybe that wouldn't matter. I've always just replaced them. Of course, the barrels used to be plentiful and cheap too which they are no longer.

Any possibility of getting hold of some new walther barrels Brian?

Not that I know of. There are already new USA manufacture SLR barrels available over here but I don't have any experience with them. Some are made from the Australian design drawings we talked about before. The OP is looking into one "as we speak".

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by browningautorifle

Just thread the front...no need to change it.

---

The barrel assembly is suspect, IMO. It looks like a “metric” profile barrel with an “inch” (British in this case) gas block installed so I’m wondering what the gas port looks like. The way the previous owner attached the modified junk muzzle device is absurd so I’m also wondering what else they did to the rifle...

Thanks to everyone for their insight. Is Brian indicated I am going to order a replacement barrel. That should remedy the issue once and for all.

---------- Post added at 08:03 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:01 AM ----------

For anyone else here in the states this is where I sourced the barrel. I cannot comment on quality yet as I don’t have it but it looks good in the write up the photograph in the price. Here is a link
L1A1 Aussie FAL Reproduction Barrel | Sarges Military Surplus

Nice one Trooper, it's great that it comes with the gas block and FE pre installed.

Are they ( gas block,FE) original parts, or 922r compliant US made parts?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 82Trooper

this is where I sourced the barrel.

---

Looks good.

The specifications say it is US made and compliant.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 82Trooper

The specifications say it is US made and compliant.

---

It looks really good, fully chrome lined too, just like the later Lithgow rifles .... :super:

9/16" x 24 UNEF for the L1A1 muzzle. Standard 60deg form. Muzzle thread is easy to cut on a lathe, even easier if the barrel has been dismounted from the body.... that way you hang it between centres, dog it to a face-plate and turn the major diameter first, then cut the thread.

With any luck, any "proper" Flash Hider will have a pretty concentric internal thread ex factory.

The proper hardened steel "indexing" washers are around, but a thrifty lad can machine them up too., ditto the dinky "Key" washer that is pinned in place to prevent the FH rattling loose..

Concentricity is more important than "rotational alignment"

Some of us used to set up "match" rifles and would taper-ream the internals of the Standard flash hider out, a la the AMTU M-14 / XM-21 mod, but not quite as extreme. The idea was to bleed off gas turbulence a bit faster whilst still retaining the "Spirit of the Pike" and keeping the ability to fix a bayonet as per instructions / drill requirements.

Be aware that the L1A1 flash hider in "service" use, is very prone to gas erosion of the forward ends of the "slots". Once the tiny gas-cut "extension slots" start appearing , they essentially create stress risers that will lead to cracking in extremis. The "service" solution was to simply replace the flash hider component; your taxes at work. People without that luxury (civilian shooters), seem to resort to a deft touch of the trusty Dremel tool to cut away any such gas-cut areas to leave a radiused end to the slot, not unlike some of those "foreign" FAL variants.

It does, however, take MANY rounds of "proper" ball ammo to erode the Flash Hider to that state.

OK, parts arrived and off she goes tomorrow for a barrel transplant. 2 weeks turn around time and a very reasonable price.
Attachment 94240
Attachment 94241
Attachment 94242
Attachment 94243
Attachment 94244

Looks really good Trooper...I assume who ever is carrying out the re-barrel has the required breeching washers and locking shoulders?

.....................I want for Christmas a .22 L1A1 Semi- Aut0 converted rifle please Father Xmas!!

Yes, the installer came highly recommended by Brian Dick.

Hey Gil, ask Father Christmas to bring me one too!
I think a lot of people would go for a .22lr SLR at the right price.

Regards,

John.

That set screw slip over flash suppressor looks like one of those gadgets that turned up around the time of the Clinton Assault Weapons ban. Those folks who were not afraid of flirting with a fiasco would sometimes install them on the slick muzzle "post ban" stuff.

Hoping with another member to be able to solve that query, as I have always looked for the answer to a good/reliable .22 conversion fitted to an L1A1 in the customers woodwork or plastic etc to be forthcoming as supplied to MOD in the very earlier days...............ie H&K kit, we'll keep you informed promise;)

Thanks Gil, sounds good!

Regards,

John.

Had that happened to a C1A1 on a range I was running, long ago. One of my senior guys was shooting when he heard a loud DING! and found a single 'prong', for lack of a better term, bent up. No evidence of the bullet hitting anything. Asked him why he did it, of course. The rifle was older than the kid so I suspect it was the barrel vibration that broke it.
Gunparts wants $10 for a used FAL L1A1 flash hider. No key or pin. There are no threads. Listed under 'FN'.

OK, the return package arrived in the mail yesterday, and I got her reassembled this afternoon. I am very pleased so far.......looks good, quick turn around and very reasonable labor charge.
Thanks again to all who helped me out here, especially Brian Dick. :clap: My retired red beret is off to you!
Attachment 94532
Attachment 94533
Attachment 94534
Attachment 94535

Well done Trooper, looks like a great job!

Now that looks correct. Bruce does a great job. His barelling setup is unique and works a charm. I was there when he turned the taper guage for checking locking shoulder size in his lathe in the early 90's. Let's have a range report when you get a chance and see how these new manufacture barrels are.

You got it next week I’m on vacation and I’m going to get to the range at least once I will check back. Thanks again

Yes, that looks about right...