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I recently purchased a M1 Carbine carried my a friend's father-in-Law in WWII. It has a clip pouch on the stock that I would like to get off. I have removed the sling but the pouch will not slip off the stock. Is there some trick I'm not aware of?Attachment 94023
Welcome !!
Make you a deal.......
Show us some pictures of your Carbine,
And I'll tell you how to remove the Mag Pouch.
Deal ??
Sounds fairQuote:
Originally Posted by painter777
Welcome to the forum. You can learn many things here. One is that the guys joke around a bit. But they are also very knowledgeable about out hobby, the M1 carbine.
Take the metal out of the stock and slide it off the front end.
Magazine pouch, not clip pouch.
Some belt pouches I have dealt with have been very tight on the stock and needed some gentle persuasion to get them removed. And yes, push (or what ever) them forward to remove. with the barreled action removed as Jim suggested.
JIM...... DEL............ ??
Boy you guys sang like birds.
Guess your against a little blackmail ?
To OP,
Lightly grease or oil the barrel before you slide the barrel band forward, to limit scratches. You don't have to remove the recoilplate. Once the barrel band is loose and slid forward, the top handguard will come forward.. then off. Now you can lift the front end of the barrel and receiver up and out. Good time to clean and get pictures while it's out.
Again Welcome
Technically, they're called Magazine Pockets! :slap: - :cheers: Bob
Welcome to the forum as you have just found out here two things happen;
1. There are plenty of helpful & knowledgeable people here willing to share and help you.
2. That blackmail is part of the norm here............:madsmile: (in good jest)
While we wait on our new member,
How bout we guess who the maker is of his carbine ?
I'll guess IBM......... Why you ask? That Butt stock looks like a LW-B to me. Yep..... IBM
Any takers?
Be careful that you don't gouge the stock with the snap!
I am guessing that it is a Saginaw S'G'.Quote:
Originally Posted by painter777
The Magazine pouch comes off by removing the stock and sliding it off forwards. And the Magazine pouch doesn't belong on the stock in the first place. It's a belt pouch. It's really awkward to get at the mags when it's on the stock.
Anybody got a picture of a Carbine stripper clip? snicker.
Sunray, gew8805,
Any type of guess to the Carbine maker ?
I guessed IBM
Wayne has it as a S'G'
As requested, here are some more pictures of my carbine. I was manufactured by Quality Hardware and Machine.
Charlie, RMC
Quality Hardware
Definitely a QHMC Crossed Cannons Cartouche.
I see a early Type I barrel band, possibly a Hi-wood stock with Oval cut oiler slot: A Type II stock if so.
Also see push button safety, plus what looks to be a real C tip sling.... that now sell for over a $100, more if the sling has any markings.
Bottom line.......... a Carbine you want to see much more of.
Szvacek,
Do you have any Carbine books?
If not a great starter book would be : U.S. M1 Carbines, Wartime Production, 7th edition, revised and expanded, by Craig Riesch. Est $30.00
Can you look in the stock's left side sling well, see any letter markings....... like QRMC ?
Really looking good so far :thup:
Cheers,
Good looking Carbine, would love to see even more pics. And as Charlie mentioned inside sling well markings.Quote:
Originally Posted by szvacek
Good book, but some real price gouging being seen on Amazon and other Internet sites right now. :eek: - BobQuote:
Originally Posted by painter777
Mine was grubby from oily fingers so I picked up an extra at the May show. They sold there for $20. I heard the publisher died and the wife may not continue publication.Quote:
Originally Posted by USGI
Your not wrong there $162/USD was the lowest up to $962/USD from ABE.BOOKS cannot understand why they stack the price so highQuote:
Originally Posted by USGI
Thanks for all the comments and questions. Since I'm new at this, all is helpful. I have added several more pictures of anything that looked like a mark or stamp. There is no marking on the sling. The silver can with the pin, anybody know what that is?
Thanks
Steve
Steve, that is the oiler. Too bad we don't live a little bit closer to each other, I would love to see that Carbine in person. From your pics I would say she is a keeper.Quote:
Originally Posted by szvacek
Take Care,
Wayne
Steve, check for markings on the bottom of the oiler and on the RH side of your rear sight. Thanks! - Bob
The only thing that sticks out to me is obviously the rear sight, wonder if it's staked. Buffalo Arms barrel and a very nice, blued flat bolt are a couple of other noteworthy things I see. Would love to have this carbine, adjustable sight or not!
Is the rear sight not original?Quote:
Originally Posted by deldriver
No, your rear sight was upgraded to the adjustable sight at some point.Quote:
Originally Posted by szvacek
https://www.milsurps.com/attachment....4&d=1529098449Quote:
Originally Posted by szvacek
Steve,
I don't know how familiar you are with the M1 Carbine so please bear with me if any of my information..... comes across like a repetitive pop quiz.
Have you figured out how to pull the barreled/receiver off the stock?
If not, we can come back to to this and better explain how to do so.
To start let's identify the type/style of stock and Hand guard you have.
We can see from your picture that your stock has the QHMC style Crossed Cannons stamp that was applied as an acceptance stamp.
The stamp Q-RMC on the left side sling slot tells us your stock was made by Rock-Ola for use by QHMC.
The oval shape of the oiler slot on the right hand side tells us the stock is either Type II or Type III.
What I can't see in your picture is how far the top wood rail extends on the right side.
There are Hi-wood stocks and Low-wood stocks.
I'll copy and link for explanation, examples from a hard working fellow members web sight:
Type I Stock Used By Some Makers In Early Production
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...tockicut-1.jpg
Type II Stock, Oiler Slot Changed To Oval Shape To Save Production Time
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...kovalcut-1.jpg
Type III Stock, Low-wood, Eliminated The Hi-Wood Rail: Prone To Breaking/Cracking
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...6/stock3-1.jpg
Your Hand Guard
https://www.milsurps.com/attachment....3&d=1529098449
There were 3 Types of Hand guards used.
Early Type I: Like yours has a wide sighting groove, and cut deeply. Retaining tab held by 2 rivets.
Another example of a Type I:
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...e00abbb9-1.jpg
Mid Type II: Has a more narrow sighting groove, and cut shallower to strengthen it. Retaining tab still using 2 rivets.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...DSC08799-1.jpg
Mid/Late Type III: Pretty much same as the Type II's groove except it now has a longer Metal retaining tab held with 4 rivets for more strength.
http://www.milsurps.com/images/impor...DSC08128-1.jpg
Look for markings on the under side of your Hand Guard. Many stocks and hand guards supplied to QHMC from Rock-Ola..... were just marked RMC. But many also were marked like your slingwell marking Q-RMC.. Example:
http://www.milsurps.com/images/impor...DSC08718-1.jpg
See page 1 and page 2 for clear explanations on USGI stocks.
A BIG Thank You to Jim,M for his hard work.
The U.S. Caliber .30 Carbine Stocks & Handguards
Good Luck Steve !
I recently came across a Standard Products that the previous owner, was presented by his CO in WWII/ETO. He was a Chief of Police years later after the war and had installed a Type III rear sight on it. He preferred the adj vs the original flip sight, as he used it while being a LEO. This told to me by his brother, (also a LEO in the same city) who passed just 6 weeks after the sale. The original paper work attached to the presentation was lost when the Chiefs home was destroyed in a 1960's flooding storm. In the limited pictures provided I could see string hanging from the frt sight, but not being clear thought it may be a ID tag or the like. Luckily the rear adj was never staked on. When purchased the carbine came with the original flip sight tied with fishing line to the front sight. He lived right on the outer shoreline in New Jersey. This carbine survived a major flooding storm in the 60's and later survived Hurricane Sandy. Because it was stored at the Police station, his home was destroyed twice, hit by both storms.Quote:
Originally Posted by W5USMC
I'd have to find his unit number, but do know he was stationed in England with the Mighty 8th. Being part of Air Recon he would photograph after bombing missions to assess damage.
Trying to research his service record has been quite the challenge. In time I hope to know more about him.
Part of the purchase agreement was to never mention his name until his surviving son (now elderly) had passed. That son has issues that kept the now deceased brother from allowing him to own the firearm.
Back to Steve's QHMC !
Here are pics from the bottom of the oiler and the RH side of the sight.
Want to really thank all you guys for helping me out. I'm new to this collecting and since this gun is so important to me, I don't want to screw it up. I would like to remove the stock and clean it up. There's lots of grim and dirt on it. I have attached pictures of the what I call the retaining ring on the front, which I'm sure is not the correct term.
What size is that nut? I don't have an wrenches that fit it. Also, there are several Youtube video on removing the stock but most of them have the bayonet clip, which mine does not.
thanks
Steve
You don't live that far away. Since I'm retired, I travel quite a bit. Never know when I might be in the area.
Steve Z.
Steve,Quote:
Originally Posted by szvacek
That bolt and nut on your barrel band are not correct, it should have a screw that threads directly into the bottom half of the barrel band. Open this link and page about halfway down to see what your band screw should look like.
The U.S. Caliber .30 Carbines - Barrel Manufacturers
Steve, that nut at the bottom of the swivel screw has been added on at some point. My guess, and I hope not, is that the hole at the bottom of the band is stripped and won't hold when the screw is turned. I have seen a few such stripped holes, but it's more the exception rather than the rule.Quote:
Originally Posted by szvacek
$40 IQ oiler
Steve, those are great pictures! The value of that IQ oiler is at least what JimF has posted. According to my Riesch book, the IR (International Register) Type 3 adjustable sight was only used on the later QHM Carbines. The screw on the Type 1 band isn't the same as for the Type 2 and Type 3 (bayonet lug) bands. If the threads are OK in the lower part of your band, some of the reproduction (Fake) Type 1 bands have a screw that will fit. Not all of them are made with the correct screw head, so make sure to check that before you buy a repro band just for the new screw. Your threads may be OK, and the bolt with nut was used to lock the bolt at a certain position, and from coming loose. Often when the wood at the front of the stock is compressed, the screw has to be left a bit loose to keep the band from locking down too much on the swivel, and preventing it's movement You could accomplish the same thing (if your band isn't stripped) by installing a new screw with a drop of blue loctite to hold the screw from coming loose. Have you checked for stake marks on the receiver dovetail where the rear sight is mounted? - BobQuote:
Originally Posted by szvacek
Steve,
What your calling a Retaining Ring......
Is what we call a Type I or Type IA barrel band. As you can see it's marked UI on the right side... with the I lightly struck (Very Common) on these REAL Bands. The Swivel has the QU marking on it. These swivels came in 2 inner dimensions, the earliest was what we call a Type I Narrow swivel, the later swivel was made a bit wider to ease up binding on the sling... these we call a Type IA. I'd guess and say your Swivel is the Wider Type IA. Good news is it is REAL. These are often Faked, with many Reproductions out there passed off as being real USGI issue.
In good working order these can sell for over $150+.
As stated above the nut and bolt have been added by someone.
The Real screw you need is formed on the top so a GI in the field could use the rim of a .30 Cal case to un-screw it.
I also hope the current nut/bolt hasn't stripped the threads on the band.
Don't use the screw from a bayonet band as most all of them have the end threads peened over so they wouldn't thread completely back out.
With not knowing if the threads are stripped on the band..... If mine, I believe I'd just buy a New/Reproduction screw for now to see if it works.
Here's a link to New one:
EDIT TO REMOVE WRONG LINK
Here is a Manual you can Bookmark and save, it will come in handy:
http://www.90thidpg.us/Reference/Man...-1276_1947.pdf
I look forward to seeing your stock cleaned.
To me, under the grime appears to be some nice looking Tiger Strip Grain.
BTW That sling can run near $100, plus you have the case and cleaning kit/pouch.
Cheers,
Charlie, that screw at Numrich doesn't match up with an original. The head of the screw isn't right, wrong OAL, and too much of the shank is threaded. He would be better off with a screw from one of the repro bands that comes in a white box with the printing that looks "somewhat real" on the outside. Those have a screw that's nearly identical to the GI original. I have a screw here from a Union Hardware Type 1A band - it measures .865" OAL. - Bob
First,
I know I pointed him toward a Repo........ to save $$ in case band threads are bad.
But I did attach the wrong link.... to short.
Had this length in mind but now see they are out of stock:
Barrel Band Screw, Early Style, OAL .860 (For Early Style Swivel) | Gun
How Bout .....
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/773319504
Look long enough ?
$4.00 plus ship.
Too Short!Quote:
Originally Posted by painter777
Maybe try a Bayo band screw that isn't peened for now just to see if threads on band are stripped ?
Gotta Run, Big Storms !!
A fine thread #10 machine screw (10-32) could be tried to see if the threads are stripped in the band. If they are, the threaded tab can be peened (flattened) and then threads chased with a 10-32 tap - might hold. Sarco still has these repro bands for around $15. I've also seen them on eBay, and from a few other vendors. There's an original Type 1 band screw available on eBay right now, but very high priced. I bought my repro from Sarco just for the screw, and then had a friend who needed a swivel for a carbine he was working on - so was able to sell that to offset the price of the screw that I needed. Here's a picture of the the box the band came in, along with pictures of (3) Type I band screws. Left to Right in the screw pictures are: Repro, 1.89M S'G', and 476K Inland. All of these screws are about 7/8" in overall length. - Bob
Charlie,Quote:
Originally Posted by painter777
I have done some research on cleaning the stock and have found several options. Paint Thinner, Mineral spirits, Boiled linseed oil, orange glow cleaner. Most said to use #0000 steel wool. What would you suggest for cleaning? The stock has got a lot of grim and dirt on it.
Steve.
Steve, tread lightly if you intend to use any abrasive material, even 0000 steel wool. You have a beautiful crossed cannons acceptance mark there and I'd hate to see it compromised in any way. There are safe ways to clean and oil your stock though, just remember to show us the results! Again, you have a very special carbine there.
Steve, Don't think it is a good idea to use mineral spirits, paint thinner or anything like that on your stock. Raw linseed oil is the only thing that goes on any of my carbine stocks. Raw not boiled, the oil has to seep into the wood, not just dry on the surface. As deldriver mentioned you have a good looking CC cartouche so steel wool should not even be considered.Quote:
Originally Posted by szvacek
Steve,Quote:
Originally Posted by szvacek
1st know that when you do a deep cleaning of the stock, that afterwards you'll have to re-apply a Raw Linseed Oil (RLO).
With that said.... keep the steel wool in the cabinet.
Gather up some clean cotton rags, Natural Turpentine, Raw Linseed Oil (RLO) and a SOFT Bristle brush. A pointed parts cleaning brush will also come in handy for the cracks and crevices.
With the metal removed except the Escutheon- Recoil plate screw nut (Do not try to remove) and the L shaped barrel band spring,
1st I use a SOFT bristle brush dipped in Natural Turpentine and brush the entire stock then wipe dry with a rag.
Next go ahead and use a rag wet with the Natural Turpentine to wipe down the grime. Dip the brush for hard to get to spots. Work on small areas at a time by wiping with the damp rag, then use a dry rag to wipe dry. Repeat often until the dry rags show no residue.
You'll notice when wiping with the wet rag that it will temporarily show how colorful the grain will look later after a new RLO application is applied.
After your satisfied that it's clean you can set up to apply a RLO finish to the stock and Hand Guard.
I prefer to set it aside for a day and let it dry out well. It will dry and look as though there is no sheen left from the original finish. But knowing it's clean your now ready to apply the RLO.
Here less is better:
It takes very little RLO to apply a coat, and is best applied by cutting or reducing the RLO with Turpentine to help promote penetration in to the woods pores.
This will be a multiple day ordeal so mix no more than you'll use for each days treatment.
Using a shot glass I mix 3 parts RLO with 1 part Turpentine.
By dipping a rag and using a circular motion I try to push and pull the MIX as far as I can.
Repeating until the wood has been completely wiped.
A small paint brush used for tight spots.
I like to wait ~20 minutes afterward then lightly wipe with the grain to catch any standing MIX off.
Set it aside for 24 hrs, then repeat. Keep this up until you can see that the stock is no longer absorbing the MIX.
When setting it aside I prefer to hang the stock upright.
Learn to give it a look over for any runs an hour or so after you hang it.
Let it soak in and dry for 3-4 days before you reassemble it.
Before reassembly you can buff the finish with a soft/clean cotton rag.
Things to note:
Get the stock clean before trying to put a penetrating RLO finish on it, otherwise penetration is limited and spotty.
Apply RLO multiple times but make sure each application is spread out, you want THIN coats or it will never dry. Really rub it in there.
Have good ventilation and properly dispose of the rags.
Also Note: You'll get plenty of advice as to 'How To' on your question.
I'm passing along this 1 method that's worked for many.
LASTLY: If after deep cleaning you see some type of Heavy Black Staining...
Do Not start the RLO application. If seen, bring it to my attention
Good Luck,
Thanks Charlie, I'm going with this procedure. Will let you know.
Steve
Steve,
Sometimes it pretty surprising what can be found under the dirt, grime and paint.
http://www.milsurps.com/images/impor...9/12/R11-1.jpg
http://www.milsurps.com/images/impor...DSC05253-1.jpg
http://www.milsurps.com/images/impor...DSC02805-1.jpg
http://www.milsurps.com/images/impor...DSC05233-1.jpg
http://www.milsurps.com/images/impor...DSC04739-1.jpg
http://www.milsurps.com/images/impor...DSC02465-1.jpg
Steve,Quote:
Originally Posted by szvacek
Cleaning:
While scrubbing the wood with the wet Natural Turpentine cotton rags, you could also use one of those little scrubby pads, that the wife uses in the kitchen. They are soft enough so they don't act like a sanding pad on the wood, but aggressive enough to help scrub hard dried up grease, cosmoline, oil and grime off. Just be sure to keep the scrub pad wet with the Natural Turpentine and rinse as needed or wipe clean with dry rags.
The SOFT Bristle brush I mention can and will do pretty much the same thing for you. So it comes down to your choice.
After cleaning:
We'll get a look at the results before moving on to application of the USGI approved finish-
Raw Linseed Oil.
If Trouble Spots Appear After Cleaning:
We'll take a look and decide what corrects the issue... E.G... Black marks, Dents, Wood-Crack or Grain split found etc.
If you need help pulling all the metal off, or other questions.. just ask.
As I stated in a post above the nut in the bottom of the stock that the Recoil plate screw, screws in to: Do Not try to remove. You can bust out the stock there.
Also the L shaped spring that catches and holds your barrel band in place on the right side can be left on the stock.
:thup:
With all your help, have got the stock liberated from the gun. As it turns out the threads on the barrel band are good! After removing the nut, the screw was still secured by the threads on the band, so not sure the purpose of the nut. I also found some more markings on the wood and metal, so have included those. One thing, the one picture with the yellow circle is a pin that drops out easily. I assume this is not a problem?
My next step is the stock cleaning. Have found the Raw linseed oil on Amazon, but haven't been able to find Natural Turpentine. What do you use?
For better or worse Sunnyside Turpentine is still made from pure gum spirits and will do the job.
Modern Artists have many views of 'Todays' types of Turpentine.
The Governments ever changing rulings on VOC limits...etc are continually changing products and their make up.
Smell is rough, but as long as it's made from pure gum spirits, it will work.
Most hardwares will have it. Pricey at Art shops.
As long as it will clean off grime and that it will reduce RLO........ It will work.
No, not a problem unless you lose the pin. I was not expecting to see an inland trigger housing and the circled B/R hammer.Quote:
Originally Posted by szvacek
It can be a problem if you forget and let it slide out of place when putting the action back in and installing the handguard. The result can be a nasty gouge and often a crack that no one needs in a nice stock! :bash: - BobQuote:
Originally Posted by szvacek
Is that a OI Inland stock US BOB ?
Nope, it's an HI - Got it on eBay a couple years ago. - BobQuote:
Originally Posted by painter777
The B/R hammer is a replacement hammer. Not a Rock-Ola part.
Made by Bruner Ritter. I have see them in a circle and a square.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...e8nzsayp-1.jpg
http://www.milsurps.com/images/impor...1942bBR1-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...t1942bBR-1.jpg
Nice Jim...
I like seeing the Pre-War products that the Subs made and their War time propaganda.
Also believe I've seen the B/R hammers in a Double square box.
Should I try to tap that pin back into place?
Once the stock is back on, the trigger housing pin can't go any where. Pin doesn't snap or lock in place. No tapping required.
Always install trigger housing pin from right to left.
After two aggressive cleanings, I think all the grime has been removed. When I first got the gun, it felt "greasy." Now, it feels clean. After a couple of days of drying, will attempt to apply the linseed oil.
My next question is; The metal parts have some grime and very small areas of rust. What is the best way to clean these components and what are the products you folks recommend?
Thanks
Steve Z.Attachment 94585Attachment 94586Attachment 94587Attachment 94588Attachment 94589Attachment 94590Attachment 94591Attachment 94592Attachment 94593Attachment 94594Attachment 94595
Now your talking Steve,
Been waiting on you.
Wood is a huge improvement. You'll be surprised how much that grain will show up when oiled.
Metal parts,
Everyone seems to have a different method.
For super grimey, dried cosmolene a pre-clean using the foaming Gunk engine cleaner works good. But your carbine isn't that bad.
I use Hoppes #9...... Fresh Brand New Hoppes #9
Coat with Hoppes #9, let sit, soft bristle brush and brass wire brush (lightly brushing with the milled grain), repeat often, letting set overnight wrapped with rags soaked again with #9, then wrapped over with plastic or zip lock baggies to keep the #9 from drying out, then again soft bristle brushed. Repeat if needed.
DO NOT BRASS WIRE BRUSH DRY, KEEP THE METAL WET WITH #9 WHILE BRUSHING.
A link:
https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=49949&page=2
Before cleaning and after cleaning using the above method:
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...cc57ec8e-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...3289621c-1.jpg
When using the Brass brush, brush lightly, so you don't pull original finish, your just trying to clean. Look the metal over closely, you'll see (like wood) that the metal has a grain to it, from the milling when it was made. Brass is fine with the metal grain. Soft bristle brush can be used across the grain.
Charlie-Painter777
I often wonder which G.I. first thought of doing this with the belt pouch - pretty good idea in combat.
Face it! You guys just need to see more carbine porn! Shame!
BTW, when cleaning off the rust, you can use my method too. Bronze wool and kerosene. That lets you scrub the bad spots a little harder. And Hoppes will remove any copper/brass that sticks to the finish.
Does anyone feel the mags & pouch on the stock might get in the way or make it a bit clumsy?
I carried pouches on my belt in VN, never on the weapon. Granted it was only used for inserting and extracting teams, otherwise we used the ma deuce's.
Appreciate your service, and that's really cool you got to use a carbine in combat. I imagine that fact only forges a stronger bond with these little rifles :)Quote:
Originally Posted by JimF4M1s
As to your question, I completely agree in regards to potentially getting in the way in a combat situation. As a lefty, and given most shooters are right handed....it would suck to pick up a carbine on the battlefield, only for it to have a mag filled pouch on the right side of the stock that prevents me from getting cheek weld and sight alignment. Obviously unique for a lefty, but overall it just seems clumsy to me like you said.
There is a pretty interesting case study done on M1 Carbine use on D-Day, and the observable specs they displayed.....
"Here's the breakdown:
Number of Photos: 90
Number of Carbines Observed: 137
Pouches:
Number of stocks where the buttstock was observable for a pouch: 84
Number of stocks with pouches: 18
Number of stocks without pouches: 66
Number of soldiers wearing no belt for magazine pouches: 25
Number of soldiers with one magazine pouch on their belt observable: 24
Number of soldiers with two magazine pouches on their belt observable: 17
Number of soldiers where the belt was not observable: 71
By the percentages:
Percentage of stocks where the buttstock was observable for a pouch: 61%
Percentage of stocks without pouches: 48%
Percentage of stocks with pouches: 13%
Percentage of soldiers where the belt was not observable: 52%
Percentage of soldiers wearing no belt for magazine pouches: 18%
Percentage of soldiers with one magazine pouch on their belt observable: 17.5%
Percentage of soldiers with two magazine pouches on their belt observable: 12.5%"
"Conclusions:
2.) The majority of M1 Carbines in use in Normandy did not have a magazine pouch on the buttstock.
By the photos and numbers, 78% or 7/9 Carbines did NOT have a magazine pouch on the buttstock. "
http://www.90thidpg.us/Research/Orig...ndy/index.html
I'm proud of Jim's service, but wish he'd never been there.
It does stick out but for the guy that doesn't want to carry any gear it would be perfect. I'd only be able to drag a mag out during a problem, not replace it. The pouch isn't friendly enough for that. Motor skills would degrade enough that you'd even have trouble snapping it back up I think. Then what, you lose the spare mag? I'd rather have them at the beltline on a belt of about 6 pouches...Quote:
Originally Posted by JimF4M1s
BAR,
I can see it both ways out in the field... in combat.
1 time I took a carbine over to the range with pouch on the stock. Even though I'm a righty it was uncomfortable when trying to cheek weld, pouch would slip and slide.
Hard to open, hard to wrestle a mag out, hard to snap back closed. Seemed I had my mind on the pouch more or equal to finding my poa. But it was my first session with one attached.
With more experience maybe I could have got use to it.
But that particular day, I almost cut it off but took the time to pull it off.
Now a guy in the field and all the gear they carry.... full pack...etc, don't know how some did it.
I'd be best off with the pouch on the belt. I could still keep my right hand grip with finger for mag drop and blindly pull and insert another mag from my belt line with my left hand.
But again with more practice.... I can understand why some like it on the stock........... but man they are in there tight.
Guess I'd prefer to be seeing down range the whole time, especially if having to shoot at or keep from being shot at.
just an opinion,
My theory is that since the original idea of the carbine was that it was an emergency weapon to replace the pistol for those who's primary job was to do something except shooting at the enemy,while you were just carrying it around while you did something else a pouch on the stock made sense.
Quickest way to save mags during quick changes is to drop them down your shirt front. Make sure the shirt is tucked in or inside your harness belt; no untidy dressing on the battlefield, please.
Been doing this for years with pistol mags during "shoot and scoot" or even basic "service match" comps. Failing that, there is a LOT to be said for shiny, stainless steel mags with fluoro bumpers on the range.
Post match brass recovery looks like a lot of oddly-feathered chickens pecking at the ground. Not much of that to be seen on the two-way ranges.
Now the guys use a drop bag on their leg, fastened to the belt and strapped to the leg(usually left). That's got an elastic opening and you just shove the mag inside.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce_in_Oz
After two cleanings and two applications on RLO, the carbine is back together. I purchased a replacement bolt for the front band assembly to replace that bolt with the rectangle bolt head and nut, but is was obviously too short, so the original is back on.
Next step is to clean up the 1911 also purchased with the carbine. The pair were carried by a friend's father-in-law during the war. He was a 1st Lt. with the 20th Armored Div. Was able to collect some information about him and his service so whenever the guns end up after I'm done with them, the history will continue.
Looks to have come out very nice.... Congrats !
If mine I would list each and every part type and marking.
Anyone remember where he could pull a Data sheet ?
No, can't remember but searched and found a link to the one that I've been using - hope it works! There's also a "fillable" one over on the CMP forum. - BobQuote:
Originally Posted by painter777
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B_Xz...mJm/edit?pli=1
Looks like this one can be printed "blank" or filled in with the computer.
Data sheet can also be found here.
Carbine Club Data Sheets - The Carbine Collector's Club
Charlie,
I know I'm replaying to a very old post but I've got a question. How aggressive is this cleaning process? I ask because I would like to try it on a rifle but don't want to remove the used by the Armory to number the stock.
Just curious about how careful I would need to be around the edges of the paint.
Thanks
Bill
Quote:
Originally Posted by painter777
Bill,
When I did that stock it was a complete strip and refinish. I used a HOT stripper on it made by UGL / ZAR which probably isn't on the market anymore or what your looking for, for your needs. I've always removed the paint. Sounds like you'll have to experiment to figure out what type base the paint is and proceed from there. Tape Plastic over the stock to protect freshly stripped paint from staining the wood. Including taping neatly over the painted markings you want to keep.
On the markings you want to remove be sure to tape a tight line along the outside border to keep any dissolved paint from seeping under in to grain beyond border lines of the letters / numbers. After stripping these letters/numbers and pulling tape you can spot treat any seepage with the Gel Strip if needed. Sometimes if the stock has a good coat of RLO or BLO under the paint which wasn't roughed up before it was painted it can come off pretty easy. I've had the bottom of pistol grips that were painted, that I taped around the clean wood and applied a simple stripper like a gel paint and varnish remover then covered over with plastic so it wouldn't dry out. A day later 90+ % of the paint wiped off with a small bondo applicator. Re-applied Gel / Paint Strip the same way, let set the same length and washed out with a hose or water pic. Sometimes swirling a toothbrush to help clear paint specs from the wood pores. When happy you might have to color shade the wood a bit. Then spot treat with RLO or BLO.
I hope this makes sense and is helpful to you. I'm sure others have different methods, so hang on. Trick is how hard the current paint base is.
1/8" or 1/4" Painters masking tape (hard to find) is nice to work with to tape around your letters / numbers because they will bend and flow along the outer edges without wrinkling up unlike the wider tapes. When I can't find it I use that 1 side or 2 sided sticky electronics tape. Acts like pin stripe, and will follow about any line you can imagine.
If you get a chance post a before pic in a new thread. Good Luck
Old Link: https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=25255
Charlie, I think you misunderstood. I want to keep the painted-on numbers (see picture) and was wondering if the Natural Turpentine would dissolve the paint so I could figure out the best way to protect the paint when using your cleaning process. As you can see in the picture the painted numbers are worn so I was hoping to client the stock to include the areas in and around the numbers. I use Citrus Solvent cut with polymerized RLO currently to clean my stocks, which is a lot of time and elbow grease; purposely, though rather slow and safe than a ah-crap.Quote:
Originally Posted by painter777
Attachment 136184
Thanks again
Bill
Yea, I blew that one. For some reason I pictured maybe some Korean markings you wanted to get rid of and the GI markings you wanted to save.Quote:
Originally Posted by usabaker
Not knowing what type paint was used and seeing how thin it is has we worried. Any type of Turpentine will thin oil base paints and will dissolve them. Turps can be used to wrinkle up dried water based paints also.
My current thought would be to seal the numbers 1st thing. I'd coat the numbers using a artist brush with a Tung Oil in a Sheen that would match your final stock finish. Then you'd be able to detail clean inside the numbers (carefully).
It's about the only option I can think of to protect the painted numbers.
If I come up with something else I'll post.