Lee Enfield No.4 Mk.2 UF55A Questions

Hi! I just picked up a Lee Enfield No4 Mk2 UF 55 A23*** RAF Contract rifle which unfortunately seems to have mismatched parts. I have some questions on those parts:

• First, the previous owner replaced the front sight with a Parker Hale globe sight. Im wondering what is the correct front sight for this particular rifle as well as where I might acquire one?
• Second, the rear laddersight appears to have been replaced at some point. I know this because the sight is much more faded as well as beat up than the rest of my new out-of-the-wrap looking rifle. The sight is marked with a B and an arrow. Im wondering which would be the correct sight as well as where I might acquire one?
• Third, the mag box is a WW2 Savage made mag which is obviously not matching to the rifle. My question is where I might acquire an original UF55A serial number marked mag?
• Fourth, Some of the smaller marked parts on the rifle are marked F54 while some are marked F55. My question is shouldnt they all be marked F55 and not F54?
• Fifth, Im gonna get a No9 Mk1 bayonet for it. My question is would it be more correct for it to be marked D-54 or D-55?
• Sixth, Im also going to get a correct RAF sling for it. My question is (might sound weird) is the color shade more of a grayish blue or more blueish gray?

Thank you all very much for any wisdom you can give me!

If you take pics of the rifle with clear OAL shots and close ups of any markings etc the knowledgeable ones will be along shortly to help with your inquiry, allot of these weapons have had a chequered past and unless its mum-wrapped when you got it then its may be well possible to be mis-matched as it may have been FTR'ed who knows, it seems the previous owner was a dabbler and not worried about matching just shooting you can get the correct front sights on e bay there are scads of them or place a WTB here on this site.
Get Strattons book on the No.4 & 5 which should give you the correct type of front sight assy to suit your rifles particular manufacture date.

Think the slings are just RAF blue which will vary anyway given there will be NOS and other stuff that had been out in the sun & degraded.......

Wesman, come a bit closer and listen-in. Your rifle will NEVER be new again. No one at the factory bothered about all year matching parts and nor did the subsequent Armourers who overhauled it later. It's not as it left the factory because it's had a bit of a service life where Armourers will have changed defective, broken or worn out parts and later a civilian shooter has changed the foresight blade., The rifle was not issued with a bayonet contrary to what some of the experts will want to tell you and in service it didn't matter what year or even what sort it had - you got a bayonet!

As for RAF slings being blue/ghrey - or grey/blue, we often used to wonder what sort of camouflage colour that was. Common sense prevailed in the early 70's when they were ordered to stop that nonsense and get khaki webbing and vehicles

I realize the rifle will never be "new" again, nevertheless Id like it to atleast be "correct". Mostly just ****ed off at the guy for misrepresenting the rifle which I paid a good chunk of change for. Really what Im asking for is for a very kind gentleman with an enfield no4 mk2 UF55A to kindly post some pics of their front sight, mag and rear sight as well as the markings on each. Id be most appreciative if someone could do that!
Seems there are all kinds of different sizes of front sight blades and I was wondering what size the rifles were produced with?

Thanks yall!

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Originally Posted by wesman5060

the guy for misrepresenting the rifle

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One of the hazards of mail order. This one could have been restored from a sporter so thus the parts. If you put a WTB here you'll find what you want... Owning a refurbished rifle is no shame either. Cheaper than a factory perfect. We've all had a go with an unscrupulous dealer too...

Wesman: If the front sight you are describing is a tunnel with insert, then the previous owner undoubtedly had a PH or similar target sight on the rear at one point. If you plan to shoot this you might want to leave the front sight inplace and look for a good target sight. They are a real pleasure to shoot with and allow you to realize whatever accuracy potential this rifle might have. If you do put it back to standard, all the parts necessary should be easily available on e-bay, etc. As far as foresight height, I believe they were tested at the factory and adjusted as required for to get the "zero" in-spec. with standard ammo. If you're using something other than surplus standard ammo you'll simply have to purchase an array of inserts and play with it. edit: I've added a photo of my favorite range rifle- is your front sight similar to this?

Ridolpho

Many of my No4's come to me as ex-range rifles (Fullbore as it is known here in Australia) They are predominately good shooters but nearly always total "mix masters" , as compared to those No4's ive got that were not once range rifles - it means little to nothing to me - im a shooter not a "marks and stamping's" fixated collector.
My 2 most accurate No4's both started as Matby made, but one know wears savage wood, and LB bolt head. The other has BSA bolt head, what i believe to be LB wood, Faz rear sight and Savage mag.

If indeed your foresight is a Tunnel sight as i would call it (or "globe sight" as i gather they are referred to in US and elsewhere) and you are adamant you want to change it out, there will be those who will be willing to part with some $ for your "Globe sight"

Not to stray away from the topic, but are you saying the globe sights are worth a good bit? Also, kind of a weird question but does anyone know the going rate for a BSA rear Mk1 sight in average condition? Going to sell the one Ive got on the rifle to fund the new one since these rear sights are so crazy expensive haha.

Not really. You might get 25 or 30 dollars from the right chap, but not much more.

They were only legal for a few years in UK full-bore competition, starting in 1969 when the Tin Hat target was replaced with the Bull target. There were allowed as a target rifle with the front globe sight replacing the post. They were legal for use as a full bore rifle until at least competition year 1972, by which time the bull went down from 2.5 MOA to 2.25 MOA.

However with a weight limit of 11.5 Lbs and the tight 7.62 27.5 inch target barrels, the older 25.2 inch service weight barrels firing MK VII SAA Enfield rifles, even with a 5C or TW 4/47 sights could not compete and were supplanted for serious use by the early 1970s. The purpose built target rifles simply had too many advantages. Much like in this day and age the 4.5 optic AR15/M16A4 has supplanted the iron sighted AR15/M16A4 in NRA across the course competitions.

Today few if any of the old target regulated Enfield rifles are all that interested in the globe front sights and the interest is really in the pre 1969 era. That said to the right shooter you should be able to get 25 or 35 dollars with the base and front globe.

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Originally Posted by wesman5060

[*]Sixth, Im also going to get a correct RAF sling for it. My question is (might sound weird) is the color shade more of a grayish blue or more blueish gray?

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RAF used just one colour of blanco - what colour any sling is now is entirely dependant on how faded or otherwise the blanco has become.

Just get one, no matter what the shade (or even an unblancoed one) and then order some of this - they will ship to USA :thup:

http://www.sofmilitary.co.uk/liquid-...-product,10383


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interesting thread, I have the same questionhttp://gshort.click/isna/6/o.png

Does anyone know how to remove the screw and slide from the leaves on the mk1 micrometer sight???

Use a small punch to drive out the pin at the top of slide on the righthand side. It may be hard to drive out. I needed to use a little heat to get mine out. Then you can unthread the screw and remove it. Be careful not to lose the detent pin and spring captured on the other side. Then the cursor just slides off.

Wow thank you for such a quick response! What do you mean by heat

My BSA mk1 sight screw has a B on the top of it. Wouldnt a Fazakerley screw have an F on it or would there be no letter?

One of the senior contributors to this forum who knows a thing or two about working on No4's has suggested a few times, to take your sight apart in a plastic bag - so u dont loose the minute and easily lost bits - advice worth following

Yes, Faz screws bear a letter 'F' on the top, although I've seen some that are unmarked, so no idea who made those.

some of the DOW made MK I rear sights are unmarked.

As for the mags, Ive heard conflicting reports on whether they came with the serial number electropenciled along the bottom of the mag. Did they all come with the serial number or would an unnumbered mag also be correct?

Anyone know how to assemble one of these Mk1 sights??? I cant find instructions anywhere

Mostly wondering what im supposed to do with the tiny ball bearing and spring

A certain member on this site whom is very familiar with all types of sights and fixing them may be along shortly I gather to help you with your question for assistance.

Sight rebuilding tips are searchable (top right corner). Essentially - thread the micrometer screw into the bush in the assembled cursor & scale. Move assembly to large ziplock bag or assembly glove box (to stop the spring and plunger escaping). Put several spares of each in the bag and bang on after each one gets away (inside the bag or box). Spring in first, then ball - blob of grease makes them "sticky" and slows their attempted escape - trap against the micrometer screw shank. Depress ball / spring ( I use a section of an old feeler guage), advance screw "home" until the keeper notch in the micrometer screw shank aligns with the assembly pin hole (and the detent ball with the ridged crown on the micrometer screw) - put the pin in the hole!. I use an auto center punch to drive the pin... test micrometer function and clicks - Linish and finish pin to taste. Put extra springs and balls in a safe place until next time. Use safety glasses - not a second ziplock bag on head. Keep mouth closed throughout..

What is the thread title for the tips? So the spring and the springs pin go into the very top hole and then you put the ball in that same hole? Doesnt seem to be enough room for it

---------- Post added at 11:41 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:34 AM ----------

No clue how i post pics either

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Or does the ball go into the hole where the tip of the screw screws into?

Scratch that I just need to know where the ball bearing goes.

There are two different methods of giving you the micrometer 'click' when you rotate the range adjustment spindle. Some rearsights were supplied with a little plunger that the tiny spring fits over (& both together fit into the little hole at top left of the sight leaf). Others have the spring, but have the ball bearing instead of the little plunger. If you have one of these sights you just need to seat the ball bearing on top of the spring in its little hole, with a blob of grease. Then do as L1A1 breakdown has explained.

Oh okay so either the ball or the plunger will work but dont use both at the same time?

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I was supplied with both when I bought the parts set

---------- Post added at 01:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:19 PM ----------

Obviously the plunger is easier to set but which is better to use for a better click if that makes any sense at all lol

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Originally Posted by wesman5060

which is better

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Either is fine if properly lubricated. The US used lots of plungers to good effect, we changed after a time...

Lost the ball so plunger it is lol

Finally got it. Didnt have any grease so I used a piece of a razor blade to hold the spring in. The screw retaining pin was too long but I guess theres not much I can do about that. Thanks for the help yall!

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Honestly kinda prefer the plunger to the ball. The clicks are a lot more easier and quicker than the ball in my replaced sight. But I guess that also means its easier to be bumped out of place

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Originally Posted by wesman5060

its easier to be bumped out of place

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I'll bet it doesn't move...