Printable View
Windage knob moves but does not move the reticle on my #32 scope. Looking for someone that can make the repair.
Anyone used this service? Scope Repair Service British No. 32 Sniper Scope
This is the only repair service that I've found in the US. $310 for their basic service. Any other recommendations?
Thanks!
I know the man they use for this service - he is excellent with the No.32 scope.
Years ago there was a Terry in Victoria.
Thanks for the replies. I've found a potential repair man in Canada. I'll let you know how it goes.
Same deal here. Have a #32 that needs servicing. Can anyone provide solid recommendation for Canada/US or UK? I'm in Canada and happy to ship it to someone that comes with strong recommendations. I won't risk the scope otherwise.
You might want to investigate the regulations on shipping scopes out of the USA before sending anything. :ugh:
Just wanted to post a follow-up. I sent my scope to Warren (AKA "Wheaty") in Canada for repair. Even though he was recovering from an injury, he got my #32 Mk. III scope cleaned up and back in fully functional order very quickly. I had several mechanical problems with the scope including a non-functional windage turret and a stripped friction screw. The scope came back in great shape, cleaned up, repaired, and collimated, and I could't even tell a screw had been turned. Very good guy to deal with. I don't know how much longer he will be doing this, so if you need a scope repaired, I'd get in touch with him. He can also give you tips on how to fill out the customs form so you can get the scope through customs without a hassle.
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!
Here is his email: Here is his email: Moderator Edit:
For the member's safety ... we have removed personal email address posted publicly .. to contact member, use PM (Private Message) and send to username Warren[/QUOTE]
Good information .
Just a thought, did you ask him if you could post his info?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ernest T
I only ask because I too had 2 scopes repaired by him and then sang his praises here. But because he is winding down he asked me to remove the post so he doesnt get harassed for more work.
You are correct though, he is a true professional and gentleman.
I checked with him and he was OK with me posting his info.Quote:
Originally Posted by jonh172
Warren repaired my scope as well. When he returned it he included a couple of business cards he had made advertising his scope service. He asked me to circulate those cards as I saw fit. He truly wants to fix as many problematic scopes as he can - before he can no longer service them.
I am very surprised.Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmieZ
How long ago was this?
He asked me not to circulate his info and actually did me a huge favor getting my scopes in last year as even then he did not want more.
But, things change, that was last year... Perhaps retirement didn't suit his lifestyle which is great news for us!!
Got confirmation from Wheaty, he is in full swing!
I have been watching this thread closely. As indeed I do with most No32 threads. The trouble with optical instruments is that like most mechanical parts of kit, it's easy to strip, lay out on a small workbench, clean a few bits off and put it back together. A bit like the old control box in your car. But like the control box in your car there's an electrical side that's got to be set-up too. And the No32, there's an optical side to set up. Dear o' deary me......, where do you want me to start? If you want me to be brutally honest, some of....,., no let me change that to MOST of the amateur enthusiasts can't even cope with the basic mechanics of the instruments. Put simply, they haven't even got a clue. As for the optical side of things I simply despair at some of the things, the total butchery and bodgery I have seen. It's legendary........... Then there are the home enthusiasts who suddenly have a set of cheap £4.99 instrument screwdrivers from Asda who couldn't clear, open out, plug, re-drill and tap a 1/2" hole......., let alone an 8 or 10 BA one
This is not a comment about anyone in particular or those like Wheaty who are regularly mentioned on this forum. I know they can because you never see or hear about poor work.
Roy W, where are you when I need support. I'm just machining new step-down grat stops for your as we speak. Sorry lads, but that's JUST how it is..........
I am unfortunate enough to know what Pete means.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Laidler
I got an L1A1 scope on an L42 and the elevation and deflection drums had been switched, so it wouldn't move through the full elevation. I needed it for a comp a few days after getting it, so Pete swapped them for me and noticed an issue with some internals that had been bodged. He did a holding repair which lasted me 18mths or so until the elevation stopped working below 400. Pete stripped it for me recently and has found a whole catalogue of catastrophe, which he is kindly trying to sort for me, including machining new internals. There was even some masking tape filling a void inside.
It looked fine on the outside, and matched the Rifle, but you just never know what has happened on the inside until it goes wrong!
Thanks Pete, feel free to share the photos when you are done
Roy
I cant say I've repaired any apart from my own, but I know what it takes to make new internal parts, I started on a task for a forum member who asked for quite a quantity but for reasons out of my hands couldn't complete the order plus a lot of other issues on the way but that was another story.
I had made a few but on some of the parts out of every four only two would be acceptable due to the fine tolerances and an issue in securing them for final machining, even then they may fit one scope but not another so certain measurements had to be made oversize to allow hand fitting etc, etc......
The easiest of all is the grat block itself, although I was making them out of scrap bar etc, so plenty of waste but very easy and if you get the correct diameter from the start then machining four sides is childs play, but I added a thou here and there.
You could make them out of ready made square bar but the round gives a hassle free chance to drill and ream the centre.
If you look outside the box some parts can be made in a different style and are far superior than the originals, more to do with the plungers etc, especially the Mk 2, in which I discussed with Peter, in fact some of these are doing well in one of my own mk2 scopes.
Certainly a testing time and you need the patience of a saint, even with years of Engineering under my belt I made a great error when trying a few parts, bringing a stripped tube from a nice warm house to a freezing cold workshop with freezing cold parts to fit can produce colourful language........
Operating a machine is easy, the hardest bit and most time consuming is setting the work piece up........... I am contemplating on another Machine in the future, but I've a workshop to build and extension to build straight after the workshop.
something like this would sit nice in a corner......Boxford 250 CNC lathe 8 tool station with Touch screen. | eBay
Yes, I remember that one Roy. Luckily, this one is the other one!! But to Big Duke's post. He's hit the nail right on the head. It's all about accurate and exact fitting too - and understanding the interrelated mechanical complexities. I'll give you an example...... Are you sitting comfortably, then I'll begin. Early last year, someone had a Mk2 scope fixed by someone and it was still mechanically crXp. Then another amateur enthusiast had a go and so on and on. The deflection was tight or just wouldn't operate at all once it was locked up. So, fixer number one had filed away the brass internals to loosen it up a bit. Fixer number 2 had done something that affected the range mode too and had made it totally unuseable to boot. Both, simply because they didn't understand the two axis principle.
If it was assembled loosely, it all operated mechanically. But at tightening-up time it became screwing up time - literally! Nobody had told them to read the EMER or in thge absence of the EMER or experience, just use a bit of what my mum used to call Common bloody Sense! Or what I call, the bleedin' obvious. The front shade was putting too much load on the inner sleeve which was loading up the...... Anyway it's all inter-related and the fix was easy. Or it WOULD have been but filing away the meal meant a small job became a much longer rebuild plus machining operation. Not yours Roy! Assemble loose, tighten down and test as you go.
Quick question on scope repair, my no32 mk3 cross wire is very slightly sagging on the left side - is this repairable? And if it is NOT affecting the scope operation, should I repair it?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ernest T
I suppose I'm one of these amateur meddlers, although I have been grateful for Peter's advice on innumerable occasions over the years & like to think that he generally only has to illustrate the solution to a problem to me once. Luck has also been with me in having forty total wreck No32 scopes that have come back from India as deck cargo on a U boat. All lenses are unserviceable or completely missing, internals are broken or missing & even many of the scope tube ocular ends will need grafting. On top of that they've been daubed with paint over dirt & rust. When they're so bad you've really got to try hard to make them any worse......
Re Browndog, thread 18. It's not correct and is repairable - but not by you I'd venture to suggest unless you have specialist knowledge and facilities. To be honest, and I know the experts will disagree of course, but removing the grat block to repair it involves stripping the complete turret assembly, adjusters, retainers, springs (and shoes if only to clean and grease them while you're there).
Thanks Peter! I’ve been in contact with Brian at BDLLDT, I was hoping to get this scope to you to review / repair if you are interested?Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Laidler
Thanks for that Peter, I,ve got some pics somewhere of the different stages of certain parts, on a multi turret cnc machine you could turn out buckets, for a standard lathe .........patience of a saint neededQuote:
Originally Posted by Peter Laidler
Very good information to know on the repair for the No. 32 scopes .
While I don';t do them any more, the mechanics part of our instrument course was forever and as for the optics, I bluffed my way through it all - in much the same way as I semi-learned and bluffed my way through digesting the No8 and 3.5 rocket launcher trigger mechanism. Quite how the other experts have learned the intricacies of these 3-way optical systems is beyond me. I ought to write a book about the sheer butchery I used to encounter. Laugh with sadness...... That's a good title!
Anyone in the UK servicing and repairing no32 scope still?. I own a no32 mk1, I use it on my l42 replica/clone.
Someone has asked me how I replace the butchered/sawn-off anti-rotation screw on the No32's......., telling me that it was an official modification to counteract rifles where the telescope wasn't square on to the vertical. NOT so..., certain;y not on our rifles. Maybe on one or two home mades.
Anyway, this is my answer. When I did them, I used to pull my hair out, try to punch out or drill the cross-pin, cut a small slot. But after a few, I made a set of jaws that would hold the two tube types and simply milled a slot right down to half way depth of the broken screw. Then using a small hard home made chisel shaped drift, just punch the remaining half of the screw upwards. Never fails
Insert new screw from top, insert piece of suitable shaped brass and soft solder brass insert and screw in place. Shape to suit. End of. Never had a failure - yet! And I don't think that anyone even noticed.
Jammed up clicker plungers in the Mk3's. We drilled a small hole in the diaphragm shoe and spring angled accuurately so that it entered into the jammed plunger and spring hole. As soon as it broke through, follow it up with a steel pin to drift the plunger out. You might destroy the spring but that's cheap.
Thanks for the post Peter, and what you mentioned above is what I have been doing with the jammed detent.
The aligning screw I worked on another way.
As you cannot run a drill from the end of the scope and only have a few inches to even use a screwdriver, with a dental burr and a cheap dental handpiece it just became another root canal.
I am able to cut a slot in the remains of the screw and AFTER removing the screw or pin, I can remove the remaining part of the cut off screw.
I have a home made, jury rig, "RED GREEN" jig for the tight ones and will post a picture of it. No duct tape involved...:D
I just did three in the last two to three weeks.
Thanks again..
It's relatively simple to remove the very small anti-rotation screw retaining cross pin. I used to mount the tube exactly vertically and horizontally and use the smallest centre drill to start/centre the pin. Then drift it out.
After seeing this, used in another medical application, I used a very long thin flexible drill, down a hollow shaft, slightly bent to shape so that the drill entered the broken broken screw exactly horizontally - or vertically from the drill chuck. Not a great success. Some success but others not so. So milling was my stock method.
Long passed now I still get asked. Usually pass them on to the real experts out there in wonderland