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So I picked up a striped birch stock for dress and it has some markings I`m familiar with. So it has SA on the inside of the forestock a W under the buttplate and a Star FAT 66 on the side of the stock. it also appears to have a cast receiver block no letters just cast marks. any help or information would be great. Thank you.
So having trouble getting these in a photo not a PDF but will keep trying. Hope someone can fill me in.
To fix my post the markings I am NOT familiar with.
Cast Recoil plate is post WWII, same as the SA Springfield Armory Stock. Star/year/ Italian use.
The W under the butt plate is probably just the milling station or shift marking. It's not a makers mark.
Thank you Painter777. I had found out about the stamp but was confused about the SA and W. Am I committing a "SIN" by working that FAT stamp off and making it Purdy? I would be very diligent about preserving any US stampings but I just don`t have the same feelings for a used Italian Stock nothing wrong with our friends in Italy of course. I just like to have very nice dress stocks for my rifles when I can find one.
If the stamp is not too deep and the wood fibers have not been broken, then you can use an old steam iron on it. A damp cloth over the stamp and then hit it with steam forcing the wood back to the surface.
Thank you Bruce. Yeah I have steamed out the rest of the dings but was waiting to hear more about the FAT stamp. I think I might be able to get about half of it out with good steam and the rest with a little elbow grease and sweat. I think it will be an outstanding stock when finished but I need a matching handguard have a request in the classifieds but no luck so far. Here are pictures of my M1A1 Dress stock before and after.
Very nice piece of equipment...very pretty.
Treeline M14 has some real gems available hidden under years of grease. Freds used to be my favorite Now Treeline has Jack`s Stock Of Stocks.
How did we get from an M1 carbine stock to a pretty M14 stock???????
Sorry about my rambling. Just wanted to show how I intend to finish the M1 Carbine.
Not to worry, sometimes we stretch these threads so far we don't know what's going on any more. That stock is about perfect...Quote:
Originally Posted by M1 C FAN
My working stocks get BLO my dress stocks get Tongue Oil. Wet sanded out to 1400 grit with oil then hand buffed with 20-30 coats.
A working stock for a carbine should be raw linseed oil as that was what was used on them at the factories and by the military. Tongue oil makes a nice shiny finish but it also seals the wood so one can't get any oil later to it if the wood dries out too much without first stripping the tongue oil off first.
Thanks for the Input. Yeah I know the use of Raw Linseed oil is correct but I simply don`t have the months it takes for RAW linseed oil to polymerize and lose it`s tackiness here in the damp Northwest. As long as you don`t by the Cheap BLO with driers and hardeners added it works very nicely and will polymerize with in a week. I have spent most of my life as a furniture restorer and cabinet maker and have fair finishing abilities. It`s true the WALTCO, Formbys, Minwax crap they call Tongue Oil has very little Tongue Oil and will seal a piece of wood completely because of the polyurethane in it. Only 100% Tongue Oil which was also used by the US should ever be used if not Linseed Oil. And scratches can be blended back readily with a little oil and rubbing. But everyone has different tastes. Is the FAT 66 stamp worth preserving at all??
The FAT stamp IS a part of the carbines history, like a US rebuild stamp.Some folks would like it saved others would prefer to have it disappear. Really, it comes down to what you want. Its your carbine.
Well when you put it that way.. I can`t help but preserve it now. I Very carefully preserve all US cartouche stamps and will do the same again.
Since your IBM and this FAT stock have no prior relationship.
I wouldn't be worried about removing the Star/date/letter markings so you can Pimp the stock out the way you want it to look.
It`s going to be slick as greased lightning with a FAT Star 66 on the side. Pimping Italian Style.
So now you just need a Tiger Striped Birch Hand guard.
I'll keep an eye out, they are around.
Hope other members alert in case they see one.
Good Luck
Its TUNG oil. And you don't know how to use RLO judging by the comments. RLO is SPARINGLY applied to the wood using a small cloth like a rifle cleaning patch. It is absorbed by the wood fairly quickly and there's no long wait for 'polymerization' because that doesn't happen - it just continues to permeate the wood. You can cut RLO with turpentine which is the way I like to use it and it absorbs even quicker. You can use BLO if you wish to have 'surface polymerization' or 'varnish' and this is another ideal case for cutting with Turpentine.
On a nice show stock, I would use 'Arrow Stock oil' which is something else you need to learn how to use. In a nutshell, you begin the job by working it into a small section of the stock with #100 wet/dry paper. It takes just a minute for it to begin to get gummy, finally you realize that's all you can do at that spot. You continue this until you do the whole piece of wood, then move up to #600 and do it again. You continue in this fashion until you get to #1200 or so, then change to the bare hand. By this time its beginning to look like it was dipped in glass, and its a perfect finish that no spray can or brush job can equal. Its a labor of love but when its done you can't take your eyes off the stock.
For a more matte but still transparent finish like on a fine hunting gun, you can put BLO on a piece of #0000 steel wool and rub the wood 'dry', repeating to build up the thickness, only one round a day.
Way to Welcome the new member !!
If he wants his SA FAT Carbine Stock looking fancy and can come anywhere close to the results he achieved on this one.
I'm surely not going to question his methods.
If that's what he wants, I say Pimp That Ride !
BTW, M1 C FAN is looking to purchase a Carbine Birch 4 Rivet Hand Guard with some Tiger Stripe Grain.
If you see one or can help out feel free to send him a PM.
Thanks,
https://www.milsurps.com/attachment....9&d=1555515371
Thank You Painter. I would say My results Speak for themselves. I would hold my stocks up to any finisher in the world. These stocks take approximately 6-7 weeks " Labor of Love". I`M NOT IN THE MOOD TO GET IN SOME UNNEEDED DEBATE ABOUT MY TECHNIQUES or SPEALLING ABITTILIES. I really thought I could just ask some questions (this is my first M1 Carbine not my first Rodeo) and maybe show off some of my work. Painter777 you have been nothing but helpful and I really apprieciate that I would hope I could expect that from SENIOR Members. For anyone who is interested the Picture is of the first oil sanding getting a uniform 150 finish building a slurry to fill the grain with. The toughest part of any finish job is getting every single part to a 100% uniform finish for each grit reduction before moving to the next finer grit. Then if everything is going right when you get to 600-800 grit magic begins to happen and you begin to actually see into the grain of wood and not just the surface. Finishing techniques are varied and beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
Yes please I would love to find a hand guard to match this. She is already lighting up with fire and I haven't even began. This is going to turn out to be a pure gem. It has the best starting potential I have seen In along time. I can`t believe it was only $45 on Ebay. I would expect to pay more than that for a hand guard alone.
And normally you would have...Quote:
Originally Posted by M1 C FAN
I know I can`t believe my luck finding this with a buy it now price???? It had only been listed for 2 minutes though when I bought it. Came from a gentleman just across the river from me in Vancouver he even offered to meet me at the gun show the next day and refund my shipping but I was going turkey Hunting. I don`t care who makes the hand guard doesn't have to be GI a commercial is Fine. The wood it`s self is all I`m really interested in.Quote:
Originally Posted by browningautorifle
I have no problems paying fair market value for a nice piece of wood and sometimes more than that for a piece I just have to have. A great deal can never be passed up though. The great deals on Ebay can be found with patients. But I think I could have quicker results finding one from the community though.
I've been saying for quite a few years now, "wood is king"! Good wood is getting harder to find.
That just sets it up to be knocked down. Yeah at my age good strong WOOD is harder and harder to find.....:lol: