Lee ENfield No.4 sideways barrel movement

Hi,

This is my forst post on this forum and I have to say, a lot of knowledge can be found here! I'm in the possesion of a Candadian Arsenals CNo4 mk1* from 1950, and my barrel can move to the left ever so slightly. (I also have a 1944 Long Branche No4 mk1* but that's been deactivated) The rifle does have good up-pressure, but with some force I can push the end of the barrel slightly to the left. The barrel looks to be in the middle of the barrel channel, and there's no wood touching the barrel from the reinforce until the pressure area at the forend. Does anyone have an idea if this is normal?

Yours sincerely,

Jorrit

Read this post to get the drift on the bedding.
https://www.google.com/url?client=in...KGuauXdSbSXrDe

Long Branch was the name of the plant ALL Canadian Arsenals No. 4 Rifles were made. A '1950' Long Branch was one of the finest No. 4 Rifles ever made.
"...barrel can move..." How? If you push on the muzzle on any No. 4 it'll appear to move.

Hi,

It will move to the left, but not to the right, when looking at the rifle from above. With some force I can push the end of the barrel slightly to the left. I know an L-E should have 'up-pressure' at the muzzle so that's normal, but the movement to the left concerns me,, if it moved to the right also I would think this is normal, but it doesn't?

Yours sincerely,

Jorrit

The barrel should be free to move a bit both left and right but should snap back to center. This providing there isn't a slight warp which is always possible. It may be bearing high on the right rear end of the forend where it contacts the butt socket. Just a light touch with a file or sanding block on the high side should put it back in the center of the channel providing it isn't caused by a warp. Please take the time to read Peter Laidler's article on fitting forends that is posted here which covers these things in detail. Maybe he'll chime in too with his opinion on your bearings. Fitting forends is a bit of a black art and no two are exactly alike. It's a never ending learning process for nimrods like myself but I'm getting better with each one I fit. I always chuckle to myself when guys take a perfectly good original forend off because it has some handling marks from service and replace it with new wood for cosmetic reasons. If they don't pay attention to detail, they'll find they have a rifle that looks new but doesn't shoot worth a crap. Food for thought.

Hi Brian,

Thank you for your information. I just read the article of Peter Laidler on fitting forends and it was very informative and interesting! As for your chuckling, I understand that completely and I myself don't mind if my rifle looks like it's been used (considering it shoots well). I actually like a bit of character in a rifle.

Yours sincerely,

Jorrit

Hi Jorrit,

You at least have a basic knowledge now of what to look for. I went to the trouble not long ago of patching and refinishing to spec a Savage No.4 forend to use in a restoration I was doing for a good friend. After getting it all pretty and ready to install, I assembled it and it was warped like a banana at the muzzle end! Boy, did I feel stupid because the only thing I didn't do was try it on first before expending all of that time and energy on it! Lesson learned and it won't happen again. It was not serviceable at all and may be a candidate for a replacement L42 forend some day if the need ever arises. The only way to repair a warp like that is to cut it off.

Brian

Hi,

I just fitted the forestock of my 1944 Long Branch (deactivated) to my rifle. It was a perfect fit and a much tighter fit, so I guess the draws of the other stock might be a little worn also. The barrel is now perfectly centered and free too move a tad left/right, I'm happy :)

Yours sincerely,

Jorrit

Your next step should be to shoot it and make sure everything is 100%.

Yeah, it's holiday here and the shooting range is closed so no time to test in for the upcoming month :(

Yours sincerely,

Jorrit

While we were apprentices and the No4 rifle was our daily bread and butter, our technical and practical trade instructors used to impress on us that you could have a No4 (or any Enfield) with a perfectly gauged barrel or a sewer pipe barrel that would still shoot accurately - or at least accurately enough to pass the accuracy test. But with a badly fitting fore-end, you would NEVER have an accurate rifle. Never heard truer words to this day. Some sniper rifle barrels would look like crap and barely gauge up but would shoot like a dream. Crap fit fore-end, No4 or L42/39 and you had a crap shot rifle

Hi,

The stock still doesn't have engagement I would like to see at the draws (moving side to side). Is anyone familiair with a shop which has Lee Enfield stocks for sale and would be able to send oversees, as a lot of US based stores don't? They seem to be sold out everywhere here in Europe... Unfortunately I don't think I'm capable enough at woodworking to repair it :(

Yours sincerely,

Jorrit

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Brian Dick

Hi Jorrit,

You at least have a basic knowledge now of what to look for. I went to the trouble not long ago of patching and refinishing to spec a Savage No.4 forend to use in a restoration I was doing for a good friend. After getting it all pretty and ready to install, I assembled it and it was warped like a banana at the muzzle end! Boy, did I feel stupid because the only thing I didn't do was try it on first before expending all of that time and energy on it! Lesson learned and it won't happen again. It was not serviceable at all and may be a candidate for a replacement L42 forend some day if the need ever arises. The only way to repair a warp like that is to cut it off.

Brian

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I've tried all sorts in the past to remove the warp Brian, steaming, clamping etc ...
It always comes back.

Getting a new fore end sounds excessive and the new one may be lousy.
If the wood of the draws is sound (by which I mean it is not cracked or breaking up) here's what I would try first.
Personally I would try cutting a little square of a playing- card and using it as a shim to tighten up your draws. If it works, glue in place. Paper or cardboard is virtually incompressible, and the card can be left indefinitely, but if you wanted material other than card, the Australians use copper shims, and once you know the thicnkess you need, you can buy copper, brass or aluminium sheet on ebay quite cheaply, and glue in place.
Just a suggestion, and it doesn't require wood work.
Rob

Rob,

I can hear the growling armourers From here!

I suggest you dig that foxhole, ensure your chinstrap is nice and tight and get ready for incoming!

Mr Clark, my suggestion is certainly not what an armourer would do, that's absolutely certain.
I await incoming, but, I am feeling immortal, so let me clarify:

As I read it, Joje is in a situation where
(a) he believes his draws are not engaging and this is causing his fore-end to wobble side-to-side
(b) he doesn't want to undertake a wood repair
and (c) he is considering to spend $$ on importing another fore-end.

Now, I am not convinced (a) is correct but it is a testable hypothesis. So, if it were me, I'd try a test to see if it were correct - and to avoid (c). And if the test worked (i.e. the fore-end was now snug) then it could easily be made a permanent or semi-permanent adaptation, without (b) or damage to the rifle.

Rob

I was Given[to repair] a LE[early] fore-end that had been machined,then dryed!!, for several years .It had such a bad bend in it that I cut it almost through at the middle barrel band ,then hammered a triangle piece of wood into it,to get it straight!!. The Walnut was Very hard!,probably why it was machined green?Never again. S

Joje, have you shot the rifle yet? It might be it is accurate enough without any work. If the rifle is accurate enough, no need to be concerned about the barrel movement. If it isn't, the experts on this forum should be able to guide you hopefully with little expense and some elbow grease.